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MA61 Supra - 2JZ-GTE

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    My overnight parts from Toowoomba arrived last night:



    That lot includes a 68mm Bosch DBW throttle, Bosch 540lph fuel pump, Turbosmart fuel filter, flex fuel sensor, pressure sensor (for fuel), pressure + temp sensor (for engine oil), and various adaptors and connectors. Should keep me busy for a while!

    I started by investigating the fitment of the fuel pump. Looks like I can just strap it to the hanger like this and it will be OK:



    It sure is bigger than the old Walbro:



    The original outlet pipe is obviously in the wrong location but I can probably bend that up a bit if I decide I'm going to use it, but that's still to be decided.

    Question: the old pump had a rubbery sleeve around it, it that actually necessary or can I just zip-tie the pump as is? I can't re-use the old one because the new pump has a much larger diameter.
    Norbie!

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      Hose clamp it my friend, ziptie will eventually break

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        The Walbro was in there for 18 years and the zip ties were still fine, but point taken, hose clamps are a better idea!
        Norbie!

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          I'm on the hunt for some way of getting a -6AN fitting out the top of the tank, but because of space constraints I need to find a 90 degree elbow with a tight radius. I'm not finding anything like that on the Speedflow web site, although this 90 degree bulkhead is interesting:

          https://speedflow.com.au/an-flare-bu...0-degree-from/

          It's a shame they don't have dimensions though, I'd basically have to buy it first to see if it fits in the space available.

          Does anyone have other ideas?
          Norbie!

          Comment


            I'm heading down a similar path with my next round of mods. My solution is a stainless AN6 elbow which will be welded to the top of the plate and then a corresponding barb tig'd to the inside with a diamter matching the outlet of the pump. Ebaying for JIC 316 stainless fittings will reveal a whole lot of very cost effective items from hydraulics suppliers. This will help with cross referencing AN to JIC: http://speedflow.co.uk/wp-content/up...tion-12.13.pdf

            when you're modding the hanger to suit, dont forget to upgrade the power feed as the bosch pump draws a lot more current than the walbro did, There's some info here about the various pumps and current draw at different pressures: http://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/...Dawm-a-8XtXmyc

            In my car I dissasembled the factory positive power bulkhead on the hanger and re-used most of the parts with larger gauge wire to handle the current draw. I peeled the clear stuff off the top of the positive terminal, drilled out the press stud underneath it and replaced the ring terminals underneath with versions that take the larger gauge wire and a bolt to hole it together:


            Some FIPG on top was enough to insulate it from any external contact:
            Last edited by jasonp1977; 26-09-19, 09:55 AM.

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              I had a similar problem in the ae86, but all I did was space the tank down 1" with extra sound deadening and spacers in the tank straps to accommodate

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                Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
                when you're modding the hanger to suit, dont forget to upgrade the power feed as the bosch pump draws a lot more current than the walbro did
                Great point, I should definitely do something about this! Since I've got the hanger out I might just replace the whole power terminal with a larger bulkhead connector.

                Originally posted by japlish View Post
                I had a similar problem in the ae86, but all I did was space the tank down 1" with extra sound deadening and spacers in the tank straps to accommodate
                Hmm, I like this solution, simple and pragmatic. And more importantly, something I can do myself in the shed.
                Norbie!

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                  You can get stainless steel zip ties too. But yeah hose clamps might be the go.

                  Comment


                    My clutch rebuild is done and should be here this afternoon, so I want to get everything ready for the final installation of the transmission. One of the things on the todo list was the hydraulic line for the clutch, which previously had been random bits of brake line and hose joined together and bent (very approximately) into the required shape. This time around I'm trying to be a better person, so I have some brand new 3/16 bundy tube and flare nuts and I'm making a proper hydraulic line which will hopefully look a lot neater than what I had before.

                    First I made a template by bending a length of fencing wire to follow the path I wanted along the firewall, then I got busy with the pipe bender to make a tube with roughly the same shape:



                    The first attempt was close-ish but not quite there:



                    This tube is small enough that I was able to bend it by hand until I was able to get the flare nut threaded into the master cylinder:



                    I still have a bit of work to do so it fits into the factory clips neatly, but it's fairly close now:



                    I haven't done the other end yet but because it isn't visible from the engine bay I don't have to worry about being neat, and will probably just bend it by hand until I have it pointing in roughly the right direction. I also need to add a couple of P clips to make sure nothing can rattle around, and of course I'll paint the whole thing low gloss black once I'm happy with the overall fit.

                    I'll be away on a little family holiday until Tuesday so there won't be much progress for a bit, but by the time I'm back I should have the clutch ready to go plus my new flywheel bolts and the rebuild kit for the clutch slave, so that should be just about everything I need to get the entire drivetrain back together - I hope!
                    Last edited by Norbie; 27-09-19, 09:17 AM. Reason: typo
                    Norbie!

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                      if you need a lend of a turret double flaring tool, just ask. its a thing of beauty.

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                        Thanks for the offer! I have a cheapo flaring tool from Supercheap which I'd never trust with brake lines but I'm hoping will be OK with a clutch line. But if it leaks I'll be in touch.
                        Norbie!

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                          Update: the clutch just showed up:



                          Great service from Direct Clutch, I dropped it off at their shop on Tuesday morning and the finished product arrives at my door on Friday morning. They even threw in a clutch alignment tool. Nice!

                          Now it just occurred to me that I've never installed a twin plate clutch like this before, and it must be a different procedure to the old single plate setup. Has anyone done it before? Any online installation manuals or howto videos? I've had a look for any material specific to this clutch but came up empty handed.
                          Norbie!

                          Comment


                            pull it down and remember the sequence and then reverse it when you install it ensuring the plates aren't flipped
                            www.holditflat.com

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                              Lift the stack off as one piece when you're ready to bolt the flywheel on. Shove the aligner in and bolt it back on, note the alignment marks as it appears to be balanced.

                              I remember doing these before those aligners were a thing; darker times.

                              Comment


                                not sure if you'll need to slot the cover and plates onto the getrag input shaft and then finish the installation through the bellhousing access ports after it's all installed. Can be a bit of a squeeze trying to get the bellhousing back far enough in the tunnel to get the input shaft into the release sleeve if you bolt the clutch up to the flywheel first... also not sure you will have much choice given the intermediate plates etc

                                Might just be a case of bolt it all up to the flywheel and then loosen the engine mount bolts off so you can get a lot of angle on the engine so the bellhousing clears the tunnel during box install
                                Last edited by jasonp1977; 27-09-19, 07:46 PM.

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