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MA61 Supra - 2JZ-GTE

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    Nah just treat it the same as any other clutch. Tighten a few threads on each bolt moving to opposite bolts headbolt style. Don’t tighten any all in one go. Using the alignment tool makes it a piece of piss.
    Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons


    Originally posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn

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      Originally posted by Norbie View Post
      That lot includes a 68mm Bosch DBW throttle
      How are you planning to mount it to the manifold?

      Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
      There's some info here about the various pumps and current draw at different pressures: http://www.radiumauto.com/Blog/Post/...Dawm-a-8XtXmyc
      Been wanting to post this link in the general tech section. The bushless pumps are finally starting to become viable, if you have deep pockets. Interestingly the Bosch unit and the new Walbro unit (F90000295) does not have a built in check valve, meaning you can't run multi-pump configurations and have them staged without puttting your own check vaves in. They also mention that fuel pressure will drop to zero once the pump is turned off, probably not a big issue but may make it take a bit longer to start and priming would be useless.

      Norbie, maybe look at putting a speeflow check valve in?

      Comment


        Thanks for the clutch advice peeps, hopefully I'll be able to get something to work! The new flywheel bolts arrived the other day so I should be able to get started on this shortly.

        Originally posted by Jim View Post
        Tighten a few threads on each bolt moving to opposite bolts headbolt style. Don’t tighten any all in one go.
        This is the part that has me slightly concerned. With the clutch on the bench I was unable to get the top part of the clutch (pressure plate?) compressed far enough to get all of the nuts engaged on the studs (mine doesn't use bolts), the only way I could make it happen was to put the whole thing on the ground and literally stand on it, and even then I was only just able to get a couple of nuts started. How the hell am I supposed to do this when it's attached to the engine??
        Norbie!

        Comment


          Originally posted by bboy View Post
          How are you planning to mount it to the manifold?
          Good question! A certain PF'er with access to a machine shop has indicated he will be making adaptors and I intend to buy one, but that might not happen for a while. In the meantime I'm planning to make a quick and dirty adaptor of my own using a couple of aluminium plates and a short length of 2.5" pipe. It probably won't be functional, but should be enough to get the intercooler pipes sorted while I wait for the real thing.

          Originally posted by bboy View Post
          Norbie, maybe look at putting a speeflow check valve in?
          Thanks for the advice, I'll definitely do that!
          Norbie!

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            buy longer bolts?

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              It has studs, not bolts.
              Norbie!

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                buy longer studs? are you sure the clutch plates are in correctly, some brands have the spline section offset, so if in the wrong way round they will space out the stack, but as you tighten , it bends the clutch plates as it compress's.

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                  I suppose I could buy longer studs, but I feel like if it came like this there must be some way of installing it - I bought it second hand so presumably the last owner figured it out!
                  Norbie!

                  Comment


                    bit of an installation guide here: https://www.supraforums.com/threads/...ptions.955601/

                    Comment


                      Thanks, that's really helpful! The scan is a bit hard to read in places but it's great to have the original installation guide, I couldn't find it anywhere.

                      Holding stuff together with wire would never have occurred to me so it's nice to know that trick.
                      Norbie!

                      Comment


                        OK so the wire trick won't work for me. I didn't realise that when DCS rebuilt the clutch they actually replaced the drive plates, and they don't have any holes to loop wire through as described in the installation guide:



                        The HKS guide wants me to install the clutch the same way the factory single-plate setup is installed, which is to assemble the clutch on the input shaft of the gearbox and then put the gearbox + clutch on the engine, similar to how you'd install a torque converter on an auto. There are inspection plates on the bellhousing you can remove which give you access to the bolts securing the clutch to the flywheel. This method is actually way easier than the way I'm used to doing it because you don't have to worry about aligning the clutch plate with the input shaft spline, because it's already on the spline.

                        Anyway this method will only work on a multiplate clutch if you have some way of holding the various components together before it's bolted to the flywheel, and that's where the wire comes in. Since I can't use wire I have to do it the other way I guess, and as it happens DCS sent me an installation guide for their in-house multi-plate clutch (not my HKS one but I assume it's similar) and they do indeed want me to install it that way. Fortunately they provided an alignment tool which makes it easy to assemble the clutch on the engine:







                        Getting the top section of the clutch bolted up was no problem at all, despite my earlier fears. Either DCS included longer studs or (more likely) I had the clutch assembled incorrectly last time I tried putting it back together, but either way it was no problem here. That's a relief!

                        So now I have to install the gearbox, and I have no idea how difficult that's going to be with this rather bulky clutch in place but I suspect it might be a bit of a struggle. Having a transmission jack does make things a lot easier though so I might be worrying about nothing. My bigger concern is getting the clutch fork installed which from memory was a bit tricky even when the gearbox was out of the car, but we shall see. I'll report back tonight!
                        Norbie!

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                          Fuuuuu now that you say that, I did it that way on a JZX100 a few months ago. Forgot that's how I did it.

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                            Well scratch that, I can't get the transmission on with the clutch already installed. To get the input shaft behind the release hub I need the transmission further back than is actually possible with my tunnel. It's not even close, so tilting the engine back some more (it's already tilted a fair bit) won't do it. I think the only way I could install the transmission this way would be to move the engine forward 2-3 inches (it would have to be hanging off an engine crane so I couldn't do this on a hoist), or assemble the engine and transmission off the car and install them together, which I have done before but in my experience can't be done without various bangs and scrapes along the way. Considering how much money I paid to get my engine bay repainted and looking nice I'm not a fan of that approach.

                            So now I'm reconsidering Plan A, putting the clutch on the input shaft and figuring out some way of holding the bits together while I install the transmission. Possibly this can be done with an extra set of hands holding the clutch together while I manoeuvre the transmission into place? It's worth looking into.

                            I knew this wasn't going to be easy!
                            Norbie!

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                              Drop the subframe and assemble then lower car back onto it - GTR style???

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                                how about installing the gearbox to the engine out of the car, with engine on crossmember etc out of the car sitting on a platform/box etc, then place the lot under the car on the hoist and lower the car down over it

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