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MA61 Supra - 2JZ-GTE

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    That silver braided line just won't do - it needs to be black. However that line and the manifold will both probably fit on your Soarer so..............the third project begins

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      Norbes, cen you do me a huge favour and measure the face to the wastegate? Just need to know how wide it is to see if this model fouls my shock tower.

      Great work! Can't wait for this to be done. Will be one of the best in the country.

      Comment


        Originally posted by richzx View Post
        That silver braided line just won't do - it needs to be black. However that line and the manifold will both probably fit on your Soarer so..............the third project begins
        I've already mentioned that the silver braid is unacceptable, it will definitely be fixed before the car goes on the road!

        Unfortunately the manifold won't work on the Soarer as NA engines have a different bolt pattern. Believe me I've thought about it.

        Originally posted by Nick View Post
        Norbes, cen you do me a huge favour and measure the face to the wastegate?
        Happy to measure stuff, not quite following what you need though?

        Originally posted by Nick View Post
        Will be one of the best that has ever existed
        FTFY
        Norbie!

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          Hnar to Hnarr pawees


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            Ah gotcha! About 260mm by my reckoning.
            Norbie!

            Comment


              Nice manifold

              I must have missed it when reading through this thread in its entirety, but what turbo is on this? I guess some sort of T3, just going off the flange on the 6 boost mani, haha.

              Ignore me, I just skimmed a few posts back and saw its a GT35
              Last edited by Mr Ree; 15-12-19, 09:09 AM.

              Comment


                Yeah, GT35R with a 1.06 rear and .70 front. It's a bit old school now I guess but it made plenty of power so I'm not all that keen to replace it.
                Norbie!

                Comment


                  I would take old school Garrett reliability, over new school, roll the dice reliability any day

                  I have had a brand new Gen 1 PTE DBB 6266 in my cupboard for the past 6 or 7 years, that Im nervous to install, just in case it decides to shit the bed. I know that the internet is full of people who talk about when something failed, and not when something worked well, but it still makes you worry when you cant rebuild the CHRA

                  Comment


                    I've been a bit slack with the posting but I've been getting stuff done, mostly Haltech related stuff. I temporarily hooked up some power and ground wires and confirmed the ECU was working:



                    I don't have a laptop I can use for this sort of thing but with a USB extension I was able to use the shed PC:



                    It's not extremely convenient but it gets the job done so far. Now I'm getting used to the Haltech programming software, things sure have changed since the DOS interface I used on the old E6K!

                    Now I'm working on hooking up the wires one at a time. I started with an easy one, the fuel pump. I decided not to run a heavy gauge cable all the way from the Haltech fuse box to the back of the car, instead I'm re-purposing the original fuel pump cable to trigger a relay right next to the fuel tank access port. It's hard to believe it but this mess of wires is all just to run a single pump:



                    But it didn't look too bad in the end, and will be a lot neater once I've replaced the cover on the access port:



                    The relay I'm using has a built-in fuse so that's pretty neat. I may end up hiding it a bit more later on but this will do for now. And importantly, the fuel pump switches on when the ECU tells it to!

                    Since then I've done a few more things, including the inlet air temp sensor, the accelerator pedal, and the DBW throttle. The latter was a pain because of the Bosch connector with its tiny pins - I didn't have a crimping tool for this so had to do it the hard way:



                    But I got there in the end and all my connections work:



                    And after going through the calibration process it all seems to work perfectly:



                    Pretty happy with that!

                    Next job is to wire up the brake switch - apparently this is strongly recommended with DBW setups. I've found the wire that gets +12v on it when the brake pedal is pushed down, but I can't figure out how to get the Haltech to recognise this as a digital input, I think it wants a switched ground which would require the addition of a relay, but that seems ridiculous for something so simple. Shows what a noob I am with this sort of thing!

                    Anyway progress is being made so that's the main thing.
                    Norbie!

                    Comment


                      I made a start on my ghetto throttle body adapter. I doubt I'll keep this but I want something sufficiently functional to start the engine and test stuff.

                      First I cut out some alloy plate and drilled holes to match the mounting face of the old throttle body:



                      Annoyingly the bolt holes aren't evenly spaced around a circle like you might expect, and the throttle bore itself isn't a circle either (at least not at the mating surface), so I had to eyeball a lot of this.

                      Quick sanity check on the plenum, seems OK so far:



                      Next I scribed a circle for the 70mm centre bore. The intersecting lines are the centre point of the bolt holes, but this was way off. Again I had to eyeball it, and the punched centre point is where I actually scribed the circle from:



                      I don't have anything to make a 70mm hole but I did find a 63mm hole saw, so that will have to do:



                      The end result isn't great but with a bit more file time I reckon it will be acceptable:



                      I need to open up the bore to 70mm and remove the excess material around the outside, then it should be pretty close to what I want. Whether it will actually work for its intended purpose remains to be seen!

                      Here's how it's going to sit on the Bosch throttle:



                      Unfortunately I don't have the ability to weld aluminium and I don't know anyone nearby who can do it either, so this is the limit of what I can do for now. I have to get some welding done on my new turbo manifold as well so I think a trip to Rz's workshop in the new year might be the go.

                      Ghetto metal fabrication is honestly one of my favourite things to do in the shed. I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing, so it's an adventure every time!
                      Norbie!

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Norbie View Post
                        all seems to work perfectly
                        It's alive!!!

                        Ghetto fab is coming along nicely, next step is to get welder and start ghetto welding

                        Comment


                          Thanks bloke, unfortunately I'm too much of a spaz to even weld steel so there's not much chance of aluminium welding, even of the ghetto variety.

                          Meanwhile more progress is being made, slowly but surely ticking all the boxes on my long list of "Haltech wires I haven't connected yet". Today I sorted out the flex fuel sensor, next I'll have a stab at the vehicle speed sensor if I can figure out the pinouts/specs of the 3-pin sensor in the V160. These are common as muck on Toyotas so you'd think it would be easy to find, but that's not always the case.

                          Just for a change of pace I decided to tackle a different job today. I happened to walk past the hatch/fuel filler door release cables which were hanging up on the shed wall, and decided it was time to put those back where they belong. The front end was easy enough:



                          The other end was easy to sort out as well, but the in between has me stumped, I don't think the cables are meant to loop around and flap in the breeze like this:



                          Unfortunately I can't find any photos of how this was originally routed so I don't know what I'm meant to do with all that. Perhaps it just gets stuffed behind the trim panels as is?

                          Anyway with the filler door release operational I was able to re-install said door which had been sitting on a shelf freshly painted for the last year or so. Unfortunately at some point in that period something had got in the shed (probably a lizard of some sort) and knocked some stuff off shelves, including my pristine filler door which fell on the concrete floor and chipped the paint. I was pretty fucking pissed when I discovered that, but accidents like this were bound to happen with a freshly painted car in the shed for a year. Hopefully I can get this stuff sorted out when I take the car back to the panel shop to get the fibreglass work done.

                          Anyway, filler door installed:



                          You can see the chip on the top right corner (it looks worse when viewed from above):



                          It looks pretty good overall though, I'm even fairly happy with the panel gap after a lot of fiddling:



                          I do sorta miss my Jet A-1 sticker though:



                          Maybe Kiahatsiu can hook me up again.
                          Norbie!

                          Comment


                            I dug around in my boxes of old bits and finally found my Celica analog dash:



                            I'm taking measurements of this and my original Supra digital dash. I'll need it for my custom Raspberry Pi based instrument cluster. Yes I want to recreate the original dash (plus other stuff) on a 7" LCD screen. It's a stupid idea I know, but hey I might as well put my day job skills to good use for a change.

                            Then it was back to the wiring. I now have the speed sensor hooked up to the Haltech and confirmed working by spinning the tailshaft by hand. I also wired in the reverse lights and the starter solenoid using proper connectors and everything. Looking at the state of the factory wiring in that area I'm pretty confident this car never had working reverse lights after the manual conversion circa 2002, but hey who really needs luxuries like that right?

                            Next job was the ignition wiring. I'd previously been using an MSD DIS-4 ignition module for this, with three of the four channels driving the factory coils in waste spark mode. This time I'm pairing up the DIS-4 with a DIS-2 so I can drive all 6 coils individually, and both of those will be mounted in the cabin next to the Haltech. So I need to make a sub harness from the MSD modules to the coils, and my plan is to route it through the hole in the firewall that was originally used for the AC lines - that way I can use the factory grommet and it should look pretty neat.

                            Anyway, I chopped off the six ignition wires from the Haltech harness and set about crimping on the terminals for the coils:



                            I'm using reproduction coil pack connectors from Goleby's, they seem pretty decent:



                            I snapped them all into place on the engine to get the wire lengths right:



                            Then tied it all together in the general shape I want it:



                            Joined all the positive wires together:



                            The "finished" product, or at least one half of it:



                            The other half will have to wait a while, the MSD units use 8-pin Deutsch connectors but I only have one side, so I've ordered some more in along with some 12-pin ones to do the body harness connection.

                            Anyway it's looking pretty good so far, although I'm not too concerned about how this part looks because it will all be covered up by my fancy-pants billet engine cover once everything is done. The visible part from the back of the engine to the firewall grommet will be sheathed in braided tube of course.
                            Norbie!

                            Comment


                              you'll get a better tune if you use a fast response intake air temp sensor rather than the really slow factory sensor in the plenum

                              Comment


                                Now he tells me!

                                Where would I get one of these fast sensors, what should I be looking for? Any idea if I can get one that screws into the 2JZ plenum? I don't really want to pull the plenum off again to drill and tap it or whatever...
                                Norbie!

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