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MA61 Supra - 2JZ-GTE

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    Originally posted by 080GMH View Post
    Might be about time you got yourself a welder so you can start fabricating/welding
    You're not wrong, but this welding is going to be front and centre in the engine bay so I don't think I'd ever be able to get it looking satisfactory even if I could make it funcitonal - and even that might not be realistic for me and my unsteady hands. But Pete is an artist with a TIG welder so I know I'll get a good result.
    Norbie!

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      Well it turns out I didn't need any welding for the top hose, thanks to me six months ago buying all the right bits! I started with a 32mm 90 degree joiner and a 35-32mm reducer:



      Then cut a 250mm length of 32mm stainless pipe, and did a quick sanity check on the car:



      That works but the silicone joiners are way bigger than they need to be, so choppy chop:



      And the finished product, minus hose clamps:





      I think that worked out really good for 20 minutes of effort! Definitely a solid step up from a rubber hose and a couple of worm drive clamps. I just need to get the ends of the pipe rolled and add some decent clamps and that's the upper connection sorted.

      The lower one will be a fair bit trickier because it has to go around and behind the alternator, but I have a couple of 90 degree stainless bends and some more silicone joiners so I'm pretty sure I can work something out. I will need welding for that bit obviously but I'll mock it up with tape first and see where that gets me.

      Feels good to be back working on the main project!
      Norbie!

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        Don't forget to roll the ends, or get RZ to put a series of tacks on them.
        Originally posted by brewdles
        In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

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          Originally posted by Bob Vegana. View Post
          Don't forget to roll the ends, or get RZ to put a series of tacks on them.
          Have to get up early to get ahead of the norbie:
          i just need to get the ends of the pipe rolled and...
          Last edited by 9triton; 26-10-20, 10:56 AM.

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            Oops! Missed that!
            Originally posted by brewdles
            In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

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              Haha yep, Pete has a bead roller and I already checked it will work with 32mm pipe, so I'll get him to do that at the same time as the welding.
              Norbie!

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                Yeeeeew!! Excellent progress is excellent!

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                  All progress is excellent progress!

                  I tackled the lower radiator pipe today, it wasn't hard at all. I cut a 90mm length of straight pipe, and joined that to a 90 degree bend, then used a couple of silicone joiners I'd acquired earlier:



                  And it fits like so with the aid of some tape for mockup purposes (I promise it's not permanent):





                  The pipe is touching the swaybar but there's enough give in the silicone joiners that I don't think this will be a problem. I can put some sort of cushioning in there later if I need to I guess.

                  Anyway I'm calling that a win for now. I just need to add some welding and bead rolling and that's the cooling system sorted!
                  Norbie!

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                    Does the swaybar rotate/heave at that point when the car bottoms out? Don’t want a busted off lower radiator hose fitting after rolling over a speed bump
                    Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

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                      Originally posted by doctor ed View Post
                      Does the swaybar rotate/heave at that point when the car bottoms out? Don’t want a busted off lower radiator hose fitting after rolling over a speed bump
                      The swaybar D bush is right next to where the pipe is touching it, so displacement will be minimal at that point. Should be all good.
                      Norbie!

                      Comment


                        I'm sick of having a big pile of wires and electronic boxes sitting in the passenger footwell, it's time to get that all mounted properly and the wiring nice and neat. My original plan was to jam it all in the glovebox just like I did in the Celica, but with the two MSD boxes there's just no way it will happen, so I'm going to mount it all on the floorpan.

                        So I made a cardboard mockup for a mounting plate, then cut and bent some checkerplate based on that. The various components are going to be mounted something like this:



                        That's the Haltech ECU, 2x MSD DIS boxes, wideband contoller and fusebox. There will be room to add other stuff later if required. I'll attach the plate to the floorpan using nutserts and some sort of spacer (the floorpan isn't flat so I can't just screw it down directly) then bolt all the boxes down to the plate. Once everything is securely mounted I'll make up some sort of guard over the top of everything so the passenger can't fuck it all up by stomping on wires or whatever.

                        That's my very vague plan, let's see how it actually works out!
                        Norbie!

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                          I just added another item to the spreadsheet of purchases: new coilovers!

                          https://bcracing.com.au/c-41-va



                          These are to suit an MX73 Cressida but that's basically a 4-door MA61 so will work fine in my application. I went with these because they use the factory spring seats in the back instead of putting the weight of the car on the shock mounts like other kits do; some claim that's perfectly fine but it makes me nervous. This setup isn't as neat but it's putting the major loads in places the car was designed for it, and I still get height adjustability so it will be fine.

                          For the front I'll have to cut the spindles off the existing struts and have them welded onto the new strut tubes. This is where things get slightly tricky, because I'm not using MA61 struts in the front any more, or MX73 either, they're MX83 struts. The strut tube OD is the same so that will be fine, but reaching back into my dusty memory I had to have the MX83 struts bent a few degrees because the spindles are on a different angle compared with the MA61; I think I wound up with a few degrees of positive caster when I first installed them? So there's a possibility I'll have to do something similar here, but OTOH I have tons of adjustability now with my T3 LCAs so it might not be necessary. We'll see!

                          Most of the existing suspension setup will be recycled on the RA65. I'll be reusing the front springs, top hats and camber plates on the new coilover setup I'm building, and the rear springs and Bilstein shocks will be a direct swap. Both cars get an upgrade, everyone wins!
                          Norbie!

                          Comment


                            So I got a call from BC Racing yesterday, they wanted to know if I wanted the MX73 coilovers or the MA61 kit which is basically a brand new thing. I asked them what the spring rates are for both, they said they'd find out and get back to me on Monday but I've done some research of my own and it looks like the MX73 ones are 8kg/mm front and 10 rear, while the MA61 ones are 6 for both. I feel like the MX73 rates are a bit on the firm side, especially in the back - that sounds like a hektik drift setup to me, which isn't what I'm looking for. The MA61 setup is probably closer to what I want but maybe a bit softer than I'd like; 6kg/mm is barely any heavier than the 300lb springs I have in it now and I always thought they were too soft. I'll have to give it some more thought. But of course I can always change the springs later if I want!

                            Meanwhile I continued mounting my electronic doo-dads. Some new nutserts in the floorpan and the checkerplate is securely mounted:



                            MSD boxes bolted down with some M5 stainless bolts:



                            I've had some internet experts telling me I should get rid of these things and go with smart coils. It would certainly be much neater not having to mount these big chunky things anywhere, but what I have works and it's a proven setup so it's hard to justify spending fairly significant coin just to get the same result.
                            Norbie!

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                              Great to hear mate 👍 vids or didn’t happen though
                              GT8
                              1UZ Celica
                              1.07 flat Wakefield Park

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                                Yes but the MSD stuff is just ugly there on the floor IMO. You've done so much work making it neat and tidy that this will be a bit of an eyesore/detract from it again IMO. You'll be able to offset the cost a little by selling the MSD???

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