Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

MA61 Supra - 2JZ-GTE

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Norbie
    replied
    Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
    I like that the digital speed readout can go higher than 199
    The original could go higher than that, I definitely saw over 200 on a few occasions!

    Originally posted by Lobster View Post
    That is an awesome job. How hard was that to do?
    Not hard really, just a fair bit of time fiddling with pixel positions to get everything looking how I wanted it. The most time consuming part was manually tracing vectors over a photo of the 7-segment displays because the segments have a particular curved design I wanted to replicate and all the existing implementations I could find online had straight segments!

    The whole thing probably would have gone a lot faster if I hadn't forgotten most of what I knew about this style of development though, I've been doing mostly web stuff for the last 5 years or so.

    Leave a comment:


  • japlish
    replied
    Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
    I like that the digital speed readout can go higher than 199
    actually i think it is meant to read in MPH and stop @88

    Leave a comment:


  • Lobster
    replied
    That is an awesome job. How hard was that to do?

    Leave a comment:


  • jasonp1977
    replied
    I like that the digital speed readout can go higher than 199

    Leave a comment:


  • Norbie
    replied
    I may or may not have been slightly distracted for the last few days:



    That's visually close enough to a Supra digital dash. I'm going to start ordering hardware now so I can make it work for real. Wish me luck!

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr Ree
    replied
    Those Turbosmart units are great, you wont be disappointed

    I too have an HKS 50mm copy, and Im surprised to say that its worked perfectly since the day I installed it in 2008 lol.

    Its very sad to see that even Turbosmart WG's are being cloned and sold on Ali Express these days....for shame China...for shame.

    Leave a comment:


  • Norbie
    replied
    For the wastegate I procured a second hand but practically unused Turbosmart unit, one of their previous gen Hypergates, 45mm I think? Something like this:



    Previously I had a chinesium knockoff of an old school HKS gate, so this should be a bit of a step up.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr Ree
    replied
    Great progress on the wiring front, mate.

    What wastegate are you going to be using?

    Leave a comment:


  • Norbie
    replied
    Agreed!

    For something different today I decided it was time to mount the boost control solenoid near where the wastegate will be. There was a threaded hole on the drivers side shock tower so I decided to make use of that, and added a nutsert next to it to match the bolt holes in the provided bracket:



    I also put a slight bend in the bracket to match the curve of the shock tower:



    Worked out pretty nice I reckon:



    Back to the crimping, the solenoid only has two wires so I connected it to the Haltech with a DTM2 connector and of course some braided sheath and heat shrink tube:



    I'm pretty happy with that! I haven't wrapped up the Haltech wires yet, I'm going to wait until I've confirmed everything is working first:



    The vacuum lines need to be hooked up next but I don't have a wastegate installed yet, so I really need to pull my finger out and get that sorted. I might see if I can arrange a visit to Rz's workshop next weekend.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nick
    replied
    Yeah man, crimping to proper terminals is relaxing

    Leave a comment:


  • Norbie
    replied
    My new Deutsch 8-pin and 12-pin connectors arrived yesterday so I was able to finish off the sub harness for the ignition system. The two MSD units come with Deutsch connectors, and the easy way would be to wire up those connectors to the Haltech harness on one end and the ignition coil harness on the other end, but since I'm routing those through different holes in the firewall I'd end up in a situation where it's impossible to pull the harness out of the car without cutting wires. So I came up with this solution:





    That's one 8-pin connector to the ignition coils (6x trigger and 2x power), one 8-pin connector to the MSD DIS-2, one 12-pin connector to the MSD DIS-4, and the 8 loose wires will be joined directly to the ignition outputs on the Haltech harness. It's all a bit complicated but it means it will all come apart easily if and when the engine needs to come out.

    The next job is to make up a connector to join the Haltech harness to the body harness. So far I've been connecting all of that together with alligator clips, so I probably need something a bit more permanent. I've got it mapped out on a piece of paper, amazingly I'm going to need 11 individual connections so I'm using a Deutsch 12-pin which leaves one spare for whatever pops up in future.

    It's been a lot of work but I feel like I'm getting close to the end of the wiring adventure. It's actually not so bad when you're mostly crimping wires to terminals instead of the dodgy soldering together of random bits that happened with the last Haltech install!

    Leave a comment:


  • Norbie
    replied
    Yeah that's pretty cool! Still not quite what I'm aiming for though.

    Meanwhile I'm continuing to join wires to other wires. I decided it was time to get the wideband controller sorted out, which I thought was going to be pretty much plug and play because it's a Haltech CAN device. Much to my dismay it turns out the older Haltech gear uses completely different connectors for CAN - it has an 8-pin Tyco connector, as opposed to the DTM4 connectors on the Elite:



    Haltech will generously sell you can adapter cable for $50, but nuts to that, I'll make my own! Snippy snip:



    Well there's no going back now. It was hard to track down the pinouts for both connectors but I found some forum posts eventually, so I crossed my fingers that they were correct and got busy terminating 4 of the 6 wires inside the black sheath (the other two appear to be unused):



    Then it was just a matter of jamming the pins into the plug in the correct order:



    And.... it worked! Lights come on, the Haltech recognises the wideband controller, happy days. Sif spend fifty bucks to join 4 wires together.

    Leave a comment:


  • Nick
    replied
    Check this out for a dash display, pretty much someone made what you were going to make but it's already made..

    https://www.powertunedigital.com/products/street-dash
    Last edited by Nick; 06-01-20, 04:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • tim510
    replied
    I'm looking at one of these for my datto. its dumb cheap.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...chweb201603_53

    Leave a comment:


  • Norbie
    replied
    Originally posted by takai View Post
    But if you are planning on a digi dash for the Supra, its eleventy billion times easier to get the RaceCapture Track and just use that as the CAN and software interface.
    I'm sure there are lots of easier ways of doing this, but I'm not doing it because it's easy.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X