New Cruiser Project - 68 Toyota Crown.

[2JZR31]

Looks like junk mail. Probably best to bin it.

[JZK25]

Lol.

Did a quick paint job on the bay and front chassis. Mostly to cover up the bare metal from "rust repairs". There was also quite a lot of rub marks that left bare metal from where the inner guards and front end have spent 40 years vibrating against each other .

[Ben Wilson]

I use a tungsten tip blade in a angle grinder if ive got to redo a weld , dosent leave any shite behind.

Good to know Rz, cheers. I have some tungsten blades but don't use them much due to being fond of my fingers.

Are you talking about those circular saw blades? They scare the crap out of me - What are they like for aluminium?

[JZK25]

Little update. Got my auto back from being rebuilt by an old mate. I sent him an auto that was in Stints Cressy for a while, it has an MV 1.5 shift kit already fitted. He did a basic rebuild and toleranced everything properly. Should do the job for what I want. I got a converter built by Asnu in Brisbane. We guessed at 3500rpm stall speed with instruction to leave room for increases. It's a hybrid using bits of toyota and bits of GM converter and they said there is another 500rpm easily available if the stall needs to be higher.

My mate that built the auto tried to track down an output shaft flange to suit a uni joint but couldn't find a straight fit for it. Instead he machined the tripod flange off and pressed a round flange onto it. Steps were turned onto the tripod flange and inside the round flange, they were then pressed together and welded on either side. The outer is pressed on from the inside(front) of the inner so if the weld ever failed the outer would just spin rather than dropping the tailshaft.





Now that I had the auto back I could refit the engine and box for good.
I bolted the brake booster/master back in first and rerouted the brake lines for the LHFr wheel away from the turbo manifold.
Once that was done I swung the engine and box in for the 11ty billionth time. It's a bit fiddly to get in because of the studs on the engine mounts but with no front end on the car it was a bit easier.
I fitted a modified coolant bypass pipe that doesn't interfere with the turbo dump pipe. I made this for the 2JZ in my now gone VK.



With the engine back in and bolted up and the front clip off the car you can see the clearances between engine and chassis better.
There is a lot more room around the front pulley now since the rust repair. The rust must have bubbled up causing clearance problems, it's fine now.



Next job is to finish the manifold off. The wategate piping has the be added to it. This'll happen next weekend when I will bring home the welding gear from work.
Here's the clearance between the control arm and the manifold. This is why the collector is such a weird shape.



Here's how it sits ATM. Got tailshaft length measurements to get a shaft made this week so should have plenty to do next weekend.

[Flem-Ball]

awesome.

[Supercrown]

Love it, love it, love it.

Go son, GO!

[2JZR31]

Top work Al.

[OKE020]

looking the goods!

[Euroboost]

Terrible how crossmembers and chassis always rust in some points.

Looking good.

[Andrew Bolt]

So, so, so many awesomes.

[JZK25]

Did a bit this arv.

Wastegate time. Been putting it off for ages as I knew it would be an arse of a job. Bought a uteload of gear home from work and got started.

First step was finding which runners to take the pipes off and where along the runner I could do this. As close to the collector as possible is ideal but it has to fit in the car so compromises have to be made. Here's the two pipes welded on after running a hole saw through the appropriate spot.





Mmmm, Kirin. Hai.

It was an absolute arse to get at parts of the join.

I used a couple more bends to join the two outlets in a collector and then added the pipe to join to the wastegate flange. 20 or so test fits and this is the result.









Glad it's mostly done now. Dump pipe and wastegate re entry are next and then the exhaust is done.

Been trying to find a solution to the oil filter fitment problem this week. I had a pair of different filter housings, one aristo off the half cut and one JZX81 from back in the day. Neither quite fit as they fouled on the upper control arm in different spots. So I went looking for a different shape unit as toyota likes to make 200 different versions of the same thing for kicks. I found pics of a soarer/jzx90/100 housing and it looked promising. Rang my trusty importer and he said he had one on a 1JZ vvti parts engine so I bought the whole engine to get it. Also bought another 2JZ because it was good value.
Anyhoo, pulled the vvti housing off and it didn't fit, Doh. With them all layed out on the floor I looked over at the aristo 2JZ on the crate and it looked different to the housing on my engine even though it is the same thing. It was different, must have been made before smoko and mine was made after. It fits anyway so all's good.

Here's the 4 different ones I have, I am sure there are more.

[Rz]

yep the ones on 2j supra are different again , and made of magnesium.
went through the same thing.

[karl_2ltGC]

I very much like your great use of space in the engine bay, everything is nice a snug but very workable.

[PLAYA]

how much was the 2jz you picked up for good measure?

[JZK25]

$1650. And yes I do plan to profit unashamedly from it.


Oil filter housing fits nicely and filter is easily removed. Win.

Just measured up for a VDO tach and speedo, looks like it will fit nicely if I can get 120mm gauges. The original guages bolt in from the rear so should be easy to make the VDO look integrated.

Just having a beer whilst slicing up the 2JZ wiring harness on the back deck.