EFI would be a solution.
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That is the other mod I will be doing. Everyone reports back the same result, running much smaller jets once the extensions are in.Originally posted by OKE020 View PostHey dave, we sorted that 330ci gt42 vh the other week, blow through 750 demon, msd timing master doing boost retard. Initially had fueling issues, was up to 98 jets in the front and 102s in the rear and the thing was over 13.8afr on 98 pump at < 5psi and nowhere near peak torque. Made some 5/16th bundy tube extending out of the bowl vents and into the incoming air stream, put a single flare on the ends of the tubes in an effort to jam some air in. After the tubes were added the car was stupid rich, ended up dropping the powervalves and square jetting with 64 jets. afrs were then solid 11.6 across the page. Had another yanky blowtrough fox body in at work, lifted the hat on that and it also had the same tube setup. Definately is the trick for blow throw carbs, thats more than 22 jet sizes down and no powervalve.Originally posted by Turbo YodaI <3 Hamster
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a lot of people have had issues with simple boost referencing, i guess it depends if you think carbs are shit and because theyre shit theres no point tuning the thing properly.
I like my carbys to work properly so ill spend 11ty hours tweaking the thing until im sure it will never get any better, tuning blow through should be a piece of piss compared to half cranky NA stuff with bugger all vacuum.
I considered and discounted the spray bar deal, too much unatomised fuel for my liking and a big stumble awaits until the boost catches up to the fuel.
The brent davis method seems to be the hot ticket for blow through stuff.
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Thats what got me thinking about other ways to do it. e85s wide operating range (i.e. will run 'cleanly' over a wide range of AFRs) means that slightly inaccurate fuelling isn't the end of the world. That being said, atomisation is really important as it is what will do the cooling, surely someone has designed something for nitrous setups that will have the right spray pattern to attomise the fuel. Just trying to think through the easiest solution, the air pump idea seems somewhat clunky.Originally posted by greenhj View Posta lot of people have had issues with simple boost referencing, i guess it depends if you think carbs are shit and because theyre shit theres no point tuning the thing properly.
I like my carbys to work properly so ill spend 11ty hours tweaking the thing until im sure it will never get any better, tuning blow through should be a piece of piss compared to half cranky NA stuff with bugger all vacuum.
I considered and discounted the spray bar deal, too much unatomised fuel for my liking and a big stumble awaits until the boost catches up to the fuel.
The brent davis method seems to be the hot ticket for blow through stuff.
p.s. carbs kick arse for atomisation, lots of time to cool the charge down
Originally posted by Turbo YodaI <3 Hamster
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i want to use this, because its cheap http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-NITRO...item53dc6389fb
I could mount it in the hat nice and easily, plenty of time for it to atomiseOriginally posted by Turbo YodaI <3 Hamster
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plus this to, because it is also cheap: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-8-Elect...item43a4c34b4dOriginally posted by Turbo YodaI <3 Hamster
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EFIcunt.
just sell that shit off and do it cunt. You know it's the right thing.Pest Control - Brisbane, Gold Coast, Ipswich and South West QLD PF discounts apply.
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Originally posted by BoganDAVE View PostNew issue I am trying to think my way through. The power valve circuit on a blow thru carb doesn't really work, what happens is that at fairly low vacuum the power valve opens up and dumps a whole bunch of extra fuel into it. The power valve some how needs to be boost referenced.
A way to solve looking at getting the E-boost aux output to trigger the power-valves in the carby, so they operate at a pre-defined boost level, rather than based on vacuum. There is output on the e-boost will trigger a small electric air pump which will provide signal to open the power-valve. Other option that I think might work is to remove the power-valves and run a fuel solenoid, so I can tune activation point and amount of additional fuel.
Any thoughts, other than going EFI.
http://www.google.com.au/search?gcx=...w=1440&bih=775David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
Originally posted by bigmuzYou can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.
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Get one of those asian style clip on giant rear view mirror for best viewing.Originally posted by millsi View PostI look forward to seeing how this ends up!Pest Control - Brisbane, Gold Coast, Ipswich and South West QLD PF discounts apply.
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can you please clear some pm'sOriginally posted by JZK25 View PostI own a two and a half litre Commodore
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