Supra (2JZA61) daily project - Its alive... its ALIVE!

[Cplus]

my misses would fucking kill me if i did that in our oven - nice work!!

[Ben Wilson]

I've got one of those triple stets of step drills, they are great but they don't last long. Bunnings sell a bigger one which seems to work a lot better in my experience.

[da9jeff]

a $20 toaster oven from cashies works a treat for baking paint.

[thechuckster]

gas bbq with hood ideal for curing hi-temp paint.

[takai]

my misses would fucking kill me if i did that in our oven - nice work!!

Yeah, Gill wasnt too happy with it, and the amount of smoke in the kitchen.

gas bbq with hood ideal for curing hi-temp paint.

I did that for the rear calipers on Saturday

I've got one of those triple stets of step drills, they are great but they don't last long. Bunnings sell a bigger one which seems to work a lot better in my experience.

These ones dont seem to be too bad, already noticed the tip is a bit slower than previously, but still not that bad. I still do the majority of stuff on the drillpress, but these are really handy when doing stuff not near the press.

[takai]

It was good to meet you again Rob, and Mick and Nath too, hope you guys had a good trip back to Sydney, and thanks again for coming all this way to bring stuff down for me, still kinda cant believe you guys hadnt had Asahi before.

Anyway, today i had some fun with a Rivnut gun. Thanks to Joel (Bigpermage) for lending me the rivnut gun. Ive had a few comments on various places asking what a Rivnut gun is, and how to use it. So here goes:

This is the Rivnut gun in question:

Basically you screw a little threaded doovie onto the end of it, and the lever action of the pliers pull the thread twoards the flat plate at the end and compress it, basically locking it onto the plate you want the nut to be secured to.

So first order of teh day is to figure out how big a hole to drill:

9mm in this case, so out comes the trusty airdrill with the stepper bit:

Note the 9mm step marked in in black texta, this allows for nice and easy differentiation of the step you want to stop on.
With the hole drilled an M6 rivnut is screwed onto the gun/pliers:

Jammed into the hole, and then clamped close:

Pretty damn simple, and you are hopefully left with a rivnut that looks like this:



With both of them drilled out, i popped the rad back in:

All fitted up quite nicely, and looks like ill only have to replace the upper rad hose,

A few other shots from the other day too:

Fuel tank in.

Filter sqeezed in there nicely.

And a whole stack of AVS Model 6s brought down with the 5M by Rob, Miick and Nath.

Thanks again guys.

Thats about it. But in Ed baller style, this thread update brought to you by Asahi:

[takai]

Got some more bling bling for the car yesterday, my Techno Toy Tuning MX83 RCAs arrived:


What are RCAs? Do i hear some people ask. Well thats a good question young Jimmy.
Basically when you design the suspension layout of a car you take into account the angles of certain components relative to each other at the usual ride height.
One of these is the angle between the steering arm and the tierod end, and this is quite important, as the tierod/rack end will travel in an arc with the rackend at the center of that arc. However, the steering arm while also travelling in an arc uses the LCA inner bush as the center of the arc. At various points on these differing arcs the difference in angle isnt overly great, and the car is designed to be operated within that range. However when you lower a car you take the operating range out of that designed area. We commonly hear the term "bump steer" thrown around, and this is exactly what it is. On a lowered car the steering arm is commonly in a different section of the arc to the tierod/rack end, and therefore during suspension travel the tierod/rack end and hence your steering is pushed around, and changes angle. You can commonly feel this as a jerk in the steering wheel as you go over rough ground.

So how to RCAs help this? Well the idea with an RCA is to help to push the steering arm down and back closer to the original arc of travel for both the steering arm and the lower control arm. "Hey what", you say, "that sounds suspiciously like raising a car again, i want my car to be hektic and lowahed bruv". Yes little Jimmy, it is like raising a car, only now you are basically pushing the axle upwards on the essentially lengthened strut. As this diagram helps to show:


Pretty spiffy huh.

And one gratuitous shot of one sitting in place:


I got these RCAs, and indeed a whole bunch of other stuff that i get regularly from Techno Toy Tuning (free plug there Gabe), a company in the US which manufactures top quality gear, and are really nice people to boot.

Ive bought a fair swathe of gear from them in the past, and never had any issues with any of it. Top notch.

[Norbie]

I got these RCAs, and indeed a whole bunch of other stuff that i get regularly from Techno Toy Tuning

Only $80 for RCA's? Once again I'm going to shamelessly copy you. Nice work.

[takai]

Yeah, completely dirt cheap.
What i always wanted to ask you about your build is why you didnt just go the entire MX83 front end, and rather stayed with the MA61 stuff? Especially with the effort of fabricating rack ends etc.... unless the suspension shop just bolted MX83 ones on.

[Norbie]

Entire front end as in crossmember, steering rack and everything? I guess it never occurred to me that would be easier. Anyway the suspension shop did the fabrication work so it was pretty easy to do it my way, just cost a bit of money.

[takai]

Nah, not the steering rack and xmember, just the LCAs and rack ends.

LCAs are a bolt in proposition, and the rack ends are bolt in too. See my pics above and on the previous page. The longer LCAs fix all the camber problems too.

[Norbie]

Ah OK, I didn't get the LCA's when I bought the MX83 struts so I didn't get a chance to play with them. What effect did this have on track width?

[takai]

Overall track width isnt that bad, it shifts you into the GTR range of offset, which is a great bonus for cheap 16" 5stud jap wheels.

[Shifty]

Hahahaha I remember how much of aheadache Norbie had finding wheels

[takai]

Yeah, in this case its not overly ideal, as i only get about 8-10mm of rear track (i.e. offset) with the disc over handbrake setup at the back, but im getting about 20-30mm at the front.

That said, i had a brilliant bit of luck finding a set of +20 AVS Model 6s and a set of +35s, both for $200 the set. Now i have two full sets of staggered offset wheels for the car.