1994 GSR Lancer

[Lobster]

Can someone explain.. I have no idea wtf you guys are talking about?

later model EVO4 onwards (I think) had the engine going the opposite way

[60TJZ]

later model EVO4 onwards (I think) had the engine going the opposite way

mine is a 4g63 out of an evo 3.. the later evo's are around the other way.

http://www.turbomagazine.com/feature.../photo_02.html

So it is actually around the correct way.

So back to the question what are they going on about.

:knock: riigghhhttt cool story hansel.

[Mr Ed]

70% of evo models have it the other way round. Hense yours is wrong.

[60TJZ]

70% of evo models have it the other way round. Hense yours is wrong.

douche bag

[TJ]

Friend had a gsr with a big build motor, tons of hks shit and gt35R - it was ridiculously quick.

The antilag with autronics was also epic for scaring people.

Thus I highly approve of this product

[60TJZ]

Friend had a gsr with a big build motor, tons of hks shit and gt35R - it was ridiculously quick.

The antilag with autronics was also epic for scaring people.

Thus I highly approve of this product

Yer the 2 step is set up on the haltech just have to wire the button up

[Euroboost]

:knock: riigghhhttt cool story hansel.

70% of evo models have it the other way round. Hense yours is wrong.

I'm confused about this.
The CB-CC Lancer, which included evos 1-3 had the engine positioned on the left hand side of the engine bay. From the CE Lancer they changed this to having the engine on the RIGHT hand side of the engine bay, this change was on all transverse engined Mitsubishis.
So to call this one wrong is bullshit.

[The Godfather]

jeeeez nice car mate!!! where you score that from? :D

[Mr Ed]

I'm confused about this.

You sure are.

[60TJZ]

jeeeez nice car mate!!! where you score that from? :D

Found it @ a BP in cooffs, just left my supra there in its place.

You sure are.

Havent you got a car to be fucking somewhere lol

[60TJZ]

ok
weekend of work.

Some of the parts

Tial SMV 44mm Gate

HKS SSQ

With the hpc coating done and the wastgate finally here it was time to put everything back together.


Everything put back together and just putting the fluids back in.



My old man helping out since i have a broken collar bone atm lol


Also bought a new steering wheel and gear knob because i could lol


Also change the belts, the power steering hoses and gave it a full service.
Took it for a quick spin and everything is runnign very nice.
Its running low boost at a steady 22psi all the way to 9000 rpm now adn no longer spiking all over the shop.

Will be at B-rad performance getting the screamer pipe and then tuned next week. Will post up vids and dyno results once it tuned.
Cheers
Gav

[60TJZ]

Been a while but finally got it tuned...

After a scare moment when the car pushed the dipstick out (and will be cleaning the car for weeks as there is oil everywhere)

Final figure was 400 AWHP @ 25psi and ran out of fuel.

Quick Vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FvPymL_YJmM

[Mr Ed]

Positive crankcase pressure FTL...what sort of breather setup have you got on there?

Lol at 22psi "low boost"....pretty sure it was 16psi before, I think your "low boost" setting gets higher everytime I hear you mention it. :p

Nice power though

[60TJZ]

Positive crankcase pressure FTL...what sort of breather setup have you got on there?

Lol at 22psi "low boost"....pretty sure it was 16psi before, I think your "low boost" setting gets higher everytime I hear you mention it. :p

Nice power though

the low boost was 22psi as my boost controller was broken... and it was as low as i could get the boost but now i have replaced it my low boost is now down to 1/1.1bar bar as per the spring in the waste gate.

[sware]

Nice result, time for an injector upgrade?

Don't worry too much about the dipstick blowing out, they all do it, especially once the rubbers around the top of the dipstick get a bit old. If it still does it after you replace them, a set of -12 breathers on the rocker cover will sort it out.

Or you can do what most people do and add a sprung clip to hold it in place, or crimp the top of the dipstick tube.