Yes, and I just worked out that $275 for that fancy pipe is a wee bit more expensive than $8 for a new relay plug too
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Babalouie's 911 - start on p7
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Pf Wollombi pub lunch?Originally posted by Babalouie View PostDid Old Pac the past couple of weekends. Great long run, but there's been quite a lot of cyclists and traffic on it recently. Putty is great but is a bit of a hike from my place (Old Pac is maybe 15mins from my door). Wisemans is alright if you like hairpins
and Palm Beach just has the Bilgola Bends and the rest is a bit so-so.
Basically Old Pac is the best, if only you can get a clean run
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Babs. Re the heater, call Richard den Brinker from PR technology. If its Porsche, he knows it all. Great guy."If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower." - Mark Donahue Penske Porsche 917
"In Japan we no give fark for Subaru" - Trust Japan Technical Director
(TM - AVENGE)
"You can never have enough power. I remember when we had Group B cars... THEN we had enough power!"
Juha Kankkunen - Rally of Argentina '02
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Well, I drove to work today with the cabin fans off, and with just the engine-driven fan propelling the heated air into the cabin.
The volume of air wasn't all that strong, but the actual heat seems hotter and drier than a regular car's heater, so within a few minutes the cabin was nice and toasty. So with that RS heater bypass pipe and the cabin fans on, it should be just fine.
Just the same, we have to fix that burned relay plug anyhoo.Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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Thanks to TRH510 providing the part#, I ordered this little guy from my friendly neighbourhood Porsche dealer:

It wasn't too expensive at $13, it's $8 from Pelican Parts, but with a 5 day wait before delivery. Porsche had it in stock, so it was a no brainer.
The thing is, there really isn't much room to work, in this thing. This is after the heater downpipe is removed to free up some space in front of the fusebox.

Unbolt the relay holders from the fuseboard...

My theory is that when I bought the car, the relay was half hanging off and the heater was working only intermittently. The resultant poor connection caused a bit of arcing, which melted the plastic connector. I then discover the loose relay, push the relay back in position and it all works again. But all that melted plastic made it a high-resistance connection, and the 30A draw of the heater fan then melted it some more.

The heat then melted some of the internal insulation in the relay, and caused a short, which made the heater fan run all the time, even with the engine off.

To free up even more room (you'll notice that the length of wire going to the relays are very short) I even removed the back of the fusebox too.

My plan was to remove the existing terminals from the melted plug, replace the ones that were poor, but recycle the good ones. So this meant dremeling the old connector to get the terminals out.

You can see that the terminals have barbs, which mean that once they're popped in place, they don't wanna come out
You can also see that they're quite delicate.

Once the old plug is all hacked apart, the terminals are free (and you can see only one of them if burnt, but pretty bad)

...the remains of the old plug

Pop on a new terminal to replace the burnt one (it's just a normal crimp spade connector, with solder melted into it)

Carefully slide the terminals back in place..

And button it back together again.

I put the heater on full blast, and went for a bit of a drive, and it seems to work fine again. Took the fusebox cover off and the relay and wiring aren't getting warm, and there isn't any weird smell, so fingers crossed this has fixed it for good.Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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