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Babalouie's 911 - start on p7
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Damn Kev.
Thats one nice garage you have going there.
The best looking Datto 1600 and VW Beetle I have seen. :p
Sorry, just the green eyed monster making an appearance.Cheers, Richard
MX83 Cressida Grande - 1JZ-GTE Twin Turbo JZX81 Motor, Fr Suspension in, tailshaft made & installed, bigger fuel pump in, zorst, wiring, fmic done (thanks jzk25)
BA rotors R33 Calipers Now REGISTERED going well
'92 & '94 TF Holden Rodeo 2.8 TurboDiesel 4WDs - Daily Driver regular breaker/backup ute
MS85 Crown Super Sedan - Farm Car - Running 3rd 4M - Future project
'66 Jaguar E-Type 4.2 Manual Coupe
'66 Jaguar S-Type 3.8 Auto Sedan - Long Term Jobs
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Bit more spannering tonight.
Now one of the Porsche-isms (well compared to japanese cars anyway) are the jacking points, which are flush with the bottom of the floorpan, and have a locating hole in the middle (the stock scissor jack has a peg on the top of it that fits in said hole). But as you can see, it's close to the plastic skirts and undertray, so a conventional trolley jack cup will damage something.

So you use one of these nifty things (which all the 911 websites sell) it's like a hockey puck, with rubber on top to cushion the jacking point. Genius.

And this is how you jack up the FRONT of a 911....you jack it up from the rear jacking point, and the whole side of the car goes up.

Then you put the axle stand under the front jacking point. As you can see, there isn't any conventional crossmember between the suspension pickup points to act as a jacking beam.


I'm removing the bumper, so the guard liner comes off...(also unplug the indicators)

Then unbolt the bumper from the fenders

Unscrew the undertray from the floorpan

Then the last step are these 4 screws on the slam panel for the bonnet.

Give it a firm tug and the bumper pops off. Unlike the impact-bumper 911s, where the external bumper is actually a very sturdy bit of aluminium, in the case of the 964 the bumper is really just a floppy plastic cover for the real bumper, which is a sturdy alloy beam just behind.

...which, rather handily already has cutouts in it for ducts.

However, what stops the bumper ducts from being used as brake ducts, is that the oil cooler is in the way (and on the other side it's the a/c condensor)

I could cut a hole in the guard liner behind the oil cooler and run a tube from the bumper duct, but since this car spends more time in traffic than on the track, the bumper ducts will act as oil cooler ducts.

So out with the trusty dremel...

And cut out the plastic behind the duct. If I ever want to revert to stock, the foglight will bolt over this hole, so it's (visually anyway) reversible.
Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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The next part...is not so easy. One of the faults picked up on the pre purchase inspection, was that the ballast resistor on the a/c fan was busted. On the 964, the a/c condensor fan runs at two speeds. The relay for it is a double-relay, but when it's on its slow speed setting, the current flows to the fan motor via a chunky ballast resistor. This resistor is an electric choke, which reduces the voltage fed to the motor, and hence the motor runs slower. The oil cooler fan and rear (engine bay) fan blower work on the same principle.

Unfortunately, it seems to be a common repair item on 964s that the ballast resistor disintegrates. As you can see from the pic above, the resistor is really corroding from within, and when you see that, you can bet that the allen bolt holding holding in the resistor is also corroded. After a bit of fiddling with the allen key, it felt like the allen bolt was going to strip, so I decided to bite the bullet and unbolt the condensor to improve access.

With a bit of RostOff sprayed on the underside of the allen bolt, and with a better angle on the allen key, thankfully the bolt came out.

As you can see, the resistor is a coil of metal, which is set inside a ceramic heat sink. The problem is, the metal coil corrodes, and then the ceramic simply falls apart.

While I've got the bumper off, I decided to also do the oil cooler fan resistor too (which is the same part#). Thankfully it's a bit easier to access.

It was working fine, but as the ceramic is starting to go a bit powdery underneath, maybe we caught it just in time...?

Buttoned up together again, with the (now functional) RS ducts.

Much better.

One of the nice things about the job tonight (apart from that pesky allen bolt on the a/c resistor...) was that everything is held together with screws and bolts (and lots of them!). Not a single canoe clip, plastic scrivet or clip, which makes it very nice to work on.
Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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people don't realise how rigid these 911's are.
GT3 will pick up a wheel on steep driveways.
Stop right on the balance point, and you can get it to rock on 2 [diagonally opposite] wheels.
.....freaks people out as i drive into the local BP
Originally Posted by RotaUte: Some say he carries around a 5D and a beat up teddy bear, all we know is... he's called THE Q
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so it's got stuff all suspension travel then :p....Originally posted by Q View Postpeople don't realise how rigid these 911's are.
GT3 will pick up a wheel on steep driveways.
Stop right on the balance point, and you can get it to rock on 2 [diagonally opposite] wheels.
.....freaks people out as i drive into the local BP
1998 MX5 - Ohlins DFV coilovers, Roll bar,15 x7.5 Konig Litespeeds, Mania Intake
2014 Colorado LT - Oversized Whitegoods. Kid/bike/track hack/horse hauler.
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the wooshodore will do it as well.... (pre-cage..)Originally posted by Kyle View PostYou know an unmodified pug 306 will do it too right?
1998 MX5 - Ohlins DFV coilovers, Roll bar,15 x7.5 Konig Litespeeds, Mania Intake
2014 Colorado LT - Oversized Whitegoods. Kid/bike/track hack/horse hauler.
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The Hako is certainly like thatOriginally posted by Guido View PostYou have to love the factory ridgity. My car only does that now with the big cage. Before the cage you'd jack up one rear wheel and that's the only one that would come up, it was also difficult to open any of the doors!
If you're going to jack up the car, you make sure you have removed all the things you nmeed from inside the car beforehand 
The 911 is different tho, with one side jacked up from the rear point (like in the pic Q quoted), I opened the door to pop the bonnet open, and it opened and closed just like it was still on the ground.Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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