Babs - have you spoken to someone like Richard from PR about set up?
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Babalouie's 911 - start on p7
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"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower." - Mark Donahue Penske Porsche 917
"In Japan we no give fark for Subaru" - Trust Japan Technical Director
(TM - AVENGE)
"You can never have enough power. I remember when we had Group B cars... THEN we had enough power!"
Juha Kankkunen - Rally of Argentina '02
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The current setup is a quick and dirty one from my mate Nick Langdon (he looks after quite a lot of Porka race cars). I'll have to go back for a proper alignment where we screw more camber into the thing and do the cornerweights, but for now it'll doOriginally posted by itsnotagsr View PostBabs - have you spoken to someone like Richard from PR about set up?
True story. I can now choose to steer the car with my nipples, should the need arise.Originally posted by Uncle View PostBecause he was sitting so close to the wheel there was no room for it on the other side.Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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On rivnuts, you can install them with a nut, a bolt and a washer if there's insufficient room for the gun. Thread nut onto bolt, then washer, then rivnut. Insert into hole, hold bolt head against rotating, and wind nut against rivnut (away from bolt head). Pulls rivnut into place, job done."Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."
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FWIW, the laptimes are up today
http://racing.natsoft.com.au/results/
(It's the "Circuit Club Supersprint - Wakefield Park Raceway")
The only other P-car was "Lising", which is a 996TT. I was hoping to sneak in front of the guy all day, but didn't quite manage it, oh well maybe next time
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That is pure genius!Originally posted by Gammaboy View PostOn rivnuts, you can install them with a nut, a bolt and a washer if there's insufficient room for the gun. Thread nut onto bolt, then washer, then rivnut. Insert into hole, hold bolt head against rotating, and wind nut against rivnut (away from bolt head). Pulls rivnut into place, job done.
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Before the trackday on the long weekend, I decided to treat the car to an oil change. As usual, it's somewhat more complicated than a normal one, and requires some homework beforehand
First you have to get the oil hot enough to open the thermostat to the oil cooler. Because it's air cooled, going for a bit of a drive might not actually achieve this, since (to a certain extent) it gets cooler the faster you go. So after going for a bit of a blat, I let her idle for 5-10mins to get the temps hot enough. Then it's up on stands and first step is to drain the oil from the dry sump tank (which is ahead of the rear wheel)...frickin 8 litres of hot oil comes gushing out like an out of control fire hose and splashes everywhere
Then you put another drain pan under the engine, and drain the 1L or so that's in the crankcase.

And then...you take a phillips head screwdriver and a hammer, and punch a little hole in the oil filter, and once you do that, you hear glug glug glug as the last litre of oil drains out into the pan.

This is pretty important, otherwise the old filter will dump heaps of oil all over the engine bay as you spin it free. By making a hole first, most of the oil drains out, and it's more or less empty when you remove it.
Then comes the ritual of refilling
The dry sump tank isn't big enough to hold the whole oil capacity of the car, so if you dump it all in one go, it'll overflow a fair bit into the intake manifold. So what you do, is fill the dry sump tank with 6L. Then start the car and let it idle....then dribble in 3L slowly as it's idling and then wait.

With 9L in the car, we're almost there, but to check the level properly the oil has to be up to temp and with the oil cooler thermostat open. You sit down, open a beverage and read a magazine for a while, until about 10 mins passes and the oil temps are hot (the oil temp gauge is on the right, and the oil cooler thermostat opens at the 8 o'clock mark, and the oil cooler fan comes on at 9 o'clock). So I wait until the thermostat opens, and looking through the rear window, start to top up the oil gradually until the oil level gauge (the one on the left) rises to the 3/4 mark. This equates to about 3/4s on the dipstick
Aaaaand with that, you're done!
Takes about an hour, and the 964 took exactly 10L of 20/50W :D
But on a serious note, while I was under the car, I did notice a somewhat serious looking oil leak, which was soaking the heat exchanger on the driver's side of the engine.

At first I thought it might be a weeping valve cover, but...nah doesn't seem like it.

But at the gearbox end of the motor, I see that it's all a little Exxon-Valdez around the power steering pump housing.

Now, if you look at a 964 engine bay, you won't actually see any power steering pump. The alternator lives inside the fan, and the only other accessory belt-drive is the a/c compressor on the right.

The power steering pump is actually a tiny little thing, and is driven off the gearbox end of the cam by a toothed belt. You can see it more clearly here with the airbox removed.

So the oil leak could be from one of two possibilities: it could be the power steering pump itself puking fluid, or it could be from the camseal on the belt drive sprocket leaking engine oil....but the leak looks more brown and thick, than red and runny, so at this stage I am suspecting that it's the cam seal. Which is probably slightly easier to access than the pump itself, but it does have headfuck written all over it.
And I also note that the rubber hoses on the dry sump tank look like they could do with replacing, too.

How excellent
Because Porsche :D
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Ahhh memeories of an oil change - been 12 months and 4k kms since my last so I have to do the same shortly. What do you do to catch the dry sump tank oil? I have the same oil pan as you and stuck a small bucket inside it which holds around 5L and then once its full it overflows and settles around the bucket in the oil pan. With the bucket being taller than the pan - it also reduces splashback :D
I'm looking in the garage pics and I dont see a bottle - what brand you using this time? still Royal Purple derivative? I
m thinking of using the Penrite this time instead of Swepco for ease of sourcing
Bugger about the leak - I've looked at my cam covers (dry) but it does appear the engine needs to be at least lifted to get them off as the sides of the engine fouls the bay'Lifes pretty straight without twisties'
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I looked at some threads on Rennlist, and apparently it's quite doable with the engine in place, altho plenty of stuff has to be dismantled and removed to get access to do it properly.Originally posted by dogsballs View Postengine out for cam seal?
I have two of those triangular drain pans, and when the first one is getting full, I hold the second one under the draining oil, while I slide the full one out from underneath.Originally posted by Boxer View PostAhhh memeories of an oil change - been 12 months and 4k kms since my last so I have to do the same shortly. What do you do to catch the dry sump tank oil?
Autohaus Hamilton advise against synthetics for pre 993 engines, so I'm using Penrite HPR30 'cos its loaded with zincOriginally posted by Boxer View PostI'm looking in the garage pics and I dont see a bottle - what brand you using this time? still Royal Purple derivative? I
m thinking of using the Penrite this time instead of Swepco for ease of sourcing
I reckon it isn't the cam covers in my case tho, and for the 964 at least, there's quite a bit of room to get them off.Originally posted by Boxer View PostBugger about the leak - I've looked at my cam covers (dry) but it does appear the engine needs to be at least lifted to get them off as the sides of the engine fouls the bayJapanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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Yeah my bet it's not the cam covers. I've just done all the washers and nuts on mine. Not a bad job with aftermarket headers but it would be a see hunt with the stock exhaust on.
Also lucky I have a torque wrench that goes down to 7nm. 7nm because Porsche.Originally posted by SI just want to apologise for some of my shit talking back around page 5.
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Yeah, I'm going to take out the airbox later tonight, see if it might be something stupidly obvious like a leaking softhose on the PS pumpJapanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
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i find i don't even have to lift the car - oil pan slides right underneath perfectly!Originally posted by Boxer View PostAhhh memeories of an oil change - been 12 months and 4k kms since my last so I have to do the same shortly. What do you do to catch the dry sump tank oil? I have the same oil pan as you and stuck a small bucket inside it which holds around 5L and then once its full it overflows and settles around the bucket in the oil pan. With the bucket being taller than the pan - it also reduces splashback :D
the 965 though.. :knock:
oh fun fun those fiddly 964 airbox clips..Originally posted by Babalouie View PostYeah, I'm going to take out the airbox later tonight, see if it might be something stupidly obvious like a leaking softhose on the PS pumpOriginally posted by Walt KowalskiMemes are only detectable by NSA.
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Mine aren't too bad, they don't fall out when you try to do them upOriginally posted by clutch-monkey View Postoh fun fun those fiddly 964 airbox clips..
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Oh and I should say its a shit load easier to do the rocker covers by going in from the side with the wheels off.
Hmm speaking of that has your car got an external thermostat in the drivers (rhd) wheel well? Could it be weeping out of there? I had a slight leak from the crush washer on mine that had me scratching my head for a few days.Originally posted by SI just want to apologise for some of my shit talking back around page 5.
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