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My cousin's spastic VN SS

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  • fnlow
    replied
    Awesome progress!

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  • no13b_Coupe
    replied
    Coming along sweet bro!

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  • BLO 767
    replied
    One fucked engine mount.

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    One un-fucked engine mount.

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    I need a new set, but I just wanted to salvage these to make an engine stand, allowing me to mount the donk with clutch installed and finally ridding myself of the bloody awful Supercrap design.

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    More little TIG jobs, steel this time with gas lens, to get my quick jacks up off the floor so they can hang out of the way.

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    Nabbed this centre lock socket that came with an (ex DJR I think it was?) wheel nut. Handy for measurements. Big 1in drive.

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  • BLO 767
    replied
    Seats were in a while ago, too.

    Can't tell you how impressed I was with not only Racetech's service, but also their quality. They make the Sparco's look like the cheap pieces of shit they are!

    They spent so much time with their embroiderers trying to get the logo right, and ended up shade-stitching it.


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    A Wide and a Regular, so they can be swapped each side.

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    Sneaky little test fit.

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    Posted in the welding thread a while ago, but finally got myself a TIG.

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    And this slick new true colour lid, got a good 40% off. Been out of 'the trade' so long, so to speak, but I'm blown away by the tech these days. The shield on the thing is like a bloody iPad. So wide. And cheap now, too.

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    First job was trying to get my ally TIG hand back into swing. It's been a while. Too long. Then I fabbed a little bracket for the new setup.

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    Last edited by BLO 767; 23-05-20, 07:10 PM.

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  • BLO 767
    replied
    That one cost me a lobster! LOL. Lucky all the others are fine.

    Originally posted by mizone View Post
    I swear the panel gaps and lines were never that good on them new.

    Top effort.

    Also nice info on the frame table.
    Man, VN AF. Even this car being one of the super straightest I've seen, the gaps are laughable. All part of the charm I guess.

    Leave a comment:


  • FLI355
    replied
    Fuck I just threw an immaculate set of window moulds in the bin a month a go.

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  • mizone
    replied
    I swear the panel gaps and lines were never that good on them new.

    Top effort.

    Also nice info on the frame table.

    Leave a comment:


  • BLO 767
    replied
    This is about the simplest, cheapest and most effective chassis jig you'd want to build as a one-off job, while aiming to reclaim all of the parts after the job is done.
    At about $1,000 of mostly Edcon steel materials, it doesn't break the bank, can be moved, adjusted, and serves its purpose of giving you a level service to work and measure off. That's all it does. A lot of folk seem to want to use I-Beam, though it is mostly always poorly machined and not a flat enough surface.

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    What is absolutely critical, though, is ensuring that what you are building is absolutely dead fucking straight and level. When you're measuring a chassis off this, near enough isn't good enough. It's the difference between driving in a straight line, or with ruined geometry. No setup on earth will correct chassis-deep issues. About 6 hours - an entire day's work - was spent to level this. Most people think a spirit level of 0.03 - 0.05 is acceptable. Eh, I suppose. But if it can be perfect, it should be.

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    The legs are nothing more than tube, plates and bolts with adequately-weighted swivel castor wheels. And the outsides, simple M12 hardened plastic feet that screw up and down to level once you're in situ. Again, all from EDCON (the legs I had lying around from another project, they're ORRCON). I couldn't find a suitable enough larger adjustable leg 'Alibaba or Amazon style' (fucking yanks are spoiled for choice with such stuff) that wouldn't break the budget, but a bit more meat would've been nice, though they work well enough. Wind them up, roll around. Set in place, wind them down, level, done. I DID need to double plate the rollers though, to raise them enough to roll without bottoming (an interesting exercise in discovering JUST how un-flat concrete surfaces are, when you leave yourself 20 - 30mm clearance, and still bottom out at the far corners).

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    Last edited by BLO 767; 23-05-20, 12:42 AM.

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  • BLO 767
    replied
    Open up, you slut.

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    If you take anything away from this thread, let it be this. This is why you cage cars. Have a go at the way the damage stops right here, saving the sill structure.

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    Even the torque plate is OK. The floor, not so much.

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    New pillar going in. Door(s) re-set. Roof re-set. Shout out to old boy, couldn't do any of this without him.

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    And... we're back.

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    More on the chassis jig there coming.

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  • BLO 767
    replied
    100% hidden unless you really look close. My front bar wasn't done, only the top edge and front lip. Neither were the rear bar edges.

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  • no13b_Coupe
    replied
    Yeah dam!
    I'm only thinking of doing the front bits and that bob tail anyway so you'd think they'd be able to hide it and won't be so noticeable? Or it has to be all done or stands out?

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  • BLO 767
    replied
    Cheers, there were some bits and pieces here and there to fix, but for the most part I spent so much time on the pre-wrap details that most of the pro's don't even do. It takes twice as long but the results are worth it.

    No just basic tools but the wrap itself is not off the shelf 3M stuff most use. It's a particular Oracal design and colour. You need it to match all the door jambs and bay etc, however, otherwise you can clearly tell it's wrapped where you see the colour end on the panel. Most greys are either too silver or too charcoal. You need that blue tinted grey with a golden metallic that Atlas has. For the longest time - and I think still - 3M only made 1 grey colour and it's basically dark silver. Most other brands including Oracal had about 16 different greys alone.

    As you can imagine, I got samples of every one and spent ages trying to match it exactly LOL!

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  • no13b_Coupe
    replied
    Yeah bro I might just do that. I got a wrap guy down here so I can pass that on him and get that shit done.
    Might just do that even.
    Or did I misinterpret that and you've got your own machine/stuff you use?

    I read your reply on lysdexia. I didn't even know it was wrapped! Did a decent job of it then.

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  • BLO 767
    replied
    I'm definitely doing it short term too, so let me know if you need any insights - I have the exact colour code / brand that matches Atlas to the point people have tried telling me mine isn't wrapped. Need to buy more and hoping the printing still matches, actually!


    Originally posted by lysdexia View Post

    i wouldn't wrap anything that was intended to be kept long term. the wrap is faded and fucked after a couple of years, and when you remove it the car is covered in glue that often needs a bare metal respray to remove properly. i wouldn't risk it.
    Haha, I'm already there. But it's the pre-prep, wrap quality and process that helps a lot. Making sure the panel is surgically glass flat and clean beforehand, and industrially steaming upon removal.

    Wrap on this is 5 - 6 years old. I've pulled some sections off for the repair of course, and it's mostly fine. Avery make a special solvent (it's just some kind of esterised alcohol I believe) to remove the glue. A sign-writer's saviour.

    However, important to note the car hasn't seen the weather or sun to any great extent, so I wouldn't call my experience typical.

    By far the worst part when wrapping an acrylic car like the VN, is that you risk tearing the paint off when removing. Did do on the crushed front door, as you might imagine! Straight to the primer. I also did that to the roof when I wrapped it years ago (typical thin faded 90s roof paint) and it was always on the list of things to fix, which I've now done.

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  • no13b_Coupe
    replied
    If you need bits and can't source them there's a lad here that owes me a favour or two and has a few base model ones in his paddock.

    If you go with wrap let me know I'm really tempted to get a new guard/bonnet and the new front bar done. I think I mentioned in my thread I want to get it all painted but will need to save some $ to do it all.

    Wrap is a temp idea just to make it look the part for the time. My painter mate is too lazy to do anything so I've gotta source the whole car else where...

    Good to see bulk progress on it

    Leave a comment:

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