Hatchback torana

[Marlin]

Box those trailing arms too, known weak point.

Coming along great by the way!

[I'm DJ!]

Looking good.

[Peter UC]

Box only the lowers not the uppers, the top ones need to twist whilst cornering to overcome the binding issue the back end has.

[ott308]

Bloodbath and I did Sat morning and cut the 9 inch to the right length. Welded the billet ends on, cut the bracket off the old diff and welded to the 9 inch. Also measured up and welded the the coil over brackets. Next up is to box the lower arms and fabricate some coil over mounts in the body.

[ott308]

Boxed the lower trailing arms this arvo. Painted the trailing arms and diff in 2 Pack Satin Black.
Will build the centre tomorrow then put diff in the car and organise the rear brake set up. As usual crap photo quality but you get the idea.

[Dogsballs]

great work. giving me very bad ideas for the vk if the cunt doesn't sell.

what welder you using on the diff flanges, big ass weld

[Dave]

what was the setup to stop diff banana when welding?

(just curious in-case I ever do it)

[ott308]

great work. giving me very bad ideas for the vk if the cunt doesn't sell.

what welder you using on the diff flanges, big ass weld

Can't believe your VK hasn't sold?!
I have a chinese AC/DC Tig. I chamfered the housing and the housing ends. Then pre heated the housing and the housing end with a blow torch and kept heat on it as I was welding and after. Gradually let it cool. The weld looks like that because I used the weave technique for as much strength as possible.
Here are the pics you wanted too, I just remembered. Coils are just sitting there, not bolted.

[ott308]

what was the setup to stop diff banana when welding?

(just curious in-case I ever do it)

Bit of an old school method. Big solid steel rod through the whole diff. Located with machined pucks with a tolerance fit in the carrier and the housing ends. If you are doing it once just pay someone (it's cheaper). Bloodbath and I have done a few now so the materials are paying off.

[Dogsballs]

I guessed that trick when i saw the big rod. Really neat.

Coil is good. After reading dales posts the good old stock rockers with trunion upgrade work fine, as i had in mine as well. So u can use stock covers.

No idea on vk, advertised everywhere. Worst case, selling the driveline and going 700hp ls3 +300hp nitrous, glide.

Sent from my LG-V500 using Tapatalk

[ott308]

I built the centre yesterday and fitted the diff. Still need to fabricate some coil over mounts and brake caliper mounts, but it is coming together. Where it sits now is the lowest it will go unless I raise floors and tunnels etc. Also stoneguarded the rear of the underbody before installing the diff.

[Dogsballs]

fucking mint.

just saw a shortened 9" and coil-overs for sale at $2250 to suit this, few weeks too late.

[ott308]

fucking mint.

just saw a shortened 9" and coil-overs for sale at $2250 to suit this, few weeks too late.

Funny you say that. Just got offered a 9 inch yesterday (to suit a UC). Didn't ask the price. Although I built mine fairly specific with length, brakes and coil over positioning and has new stuff. So would need to modify any diff I bought anyway I think. Total cost should be less than $2250 aswell

[BigMuz]

Good stuff mate.

[ott308]

Just a little bit of progress today. Cut some holes in the floor and dummy fitted coil overs. The coil overs will be hidden once all done, aswell as they are below the false floor already. Started to modify the instrument cluster. Stripped it apart and fitting an autometer quad gauge (oil press, water temp, volts, fuel level) and a VDO tacho. Will set up a couple of dollar LED light for a shift light through the ECU. The new fuse panel turned up, has a protective cover with labelling and provision for common earths and power points. I am impressed with it. Also looks like I can keep the original tank and modify it.