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    Originally posted by GSRman View Post
    Those nuts look like standard rack nuts - they spring into place in front of server racks to mount gear to...
    Hahaha they are definitely rack nuts

    $30 for 4 is some pretty awesome level of fleecing

    Comment


      As some may remember, the old wiring was held together in what was a GIANT fist sized spitwad of sikaflex, with every wire in grab reach gobbed together on to the plenum underside in the cabin. Thanks old owner, cunt. Fuck you.

      Actually, 02-04-13... Lol at how much fucking horrible DIY I've found in this car.
      Originally posted by cracka View Post
      Every single wire in the car is held together with sikaflex. Every interior trim piece is sikaflexed on with a bolt head glued on for display. Every fucking connector is fucked/cracked/melted or non existent.
      So glad to see it slowly evolve into a fully ECU controlled, all information dash, quiet and high tech machine.

      Well, who would of thunk that one of the plenum drains was also a GIANT fist sized glob of fucking sikaflex, with an inverted 600mm coke bottle neck and thread straddling the drain tube from the plenum, with the fucked slitted/cracked rubber drain tube about a 1/2" thicker in diameter than it should be with... you guessed it, sikaflex.

      Instead of going to one of the 300,000 rusty old HQ-WB's in the country and grabbing a drain tube from one at a wrecker, or buying a new one from rare spares...he does this shit. CUNT, fuck this old fucking cunt ex owner.

      Anyway I spent the morning knocking up some 205mm circles in 4mm alloy plate, and a rectangle to later trim to shape to cover the plenum vents and a firewall hole.
      Also went to rare spares and grabbed some rubber gromets for the wiper motor retention bolts as the current ones were perished to shit, and I'm not a fuckhead who just smears sikaflex everywhere. Then to clark rubber for some round solid grommets, and some 4mm self adhesive backed closed cell foam sheet in a nice cushy durometer to act as a gasket for the cover plates.

      Then up to the car at Maleney...I reckon I've done 5-6000km of back and forth to Maleney in the last few months easily Thanks LPG BA falcon for having no cruise control, shit brakes, and generally being a cunt of a car compared to anything else on the road.

      So...This is LOL worthy...

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      Yes that's my accelerator pedal. FFS!

      And this is the reasonable rust hole that was covered up in the RHS rear side of the plenum. Typical HQ, but this was well hidden with a...you guessed it, silicone, and painted in rubber underbody so it looked legit fixed and welded, with seamfiller...Ugh. Not the end of the world, as 90% of the plenum is in tip top shape, and this is not structural to any part of the body. Just fucking shits me at finding this sort of bullshit. I suspect one day in the next 5 years the body will be coming off for complete top to bottom freshen up.

      Picture is obviously after ripping that chunk of shit out above, and tidying it up a little, cutting some of the cancer out, then giving up and just getting a coat of primer on. Sprayed a liberal dosing of lanolin/fish oil combo in everywhere I could aim the nozzle at...Plenum, underside, dash, guard, sill etc etc etc. Soaked the fucker so hopefully applying every few months keeps some of it at bay until above body off plan.

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      So I tug at the silicone...And this fucking bit falls out.... Rust repair? why cut and weld! just glue metal in randomly!

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      Anyway that's one cover plate made up, with a liberal coating of lanolin over the foam, self tapped into position prior to rivetting after I'm sure they're the right way to block the vents.

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      Same old...Can see the rectangular hole to cover up in the same way. The 4mm foam as a gasket works fuckin excellently, it's quite strong, yet compresses a lot so it isn't torn up while drilling etc. Simply to cut to shapes. I like it. Will buy some more as it's handy shit, and rated to 80degC.

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      Anyway spraycanned some satin black across the area, rectangle plate made up. You can see the new drain tube, with the fancy heat shrink and hose clamp etc. Accelerator pedal/giant washer/weld practice combo arm bolted back in place.

      I dont want to nutsert those plates to retain them. I reckon riveting them will be the go.

      Anyway otherwise I just tidied some shit up underneath it, tapped some cow shit/mud out of some places cow shit and mud has no right to be in...
      Originally posted by Bosshoggett
      If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

      Comment


        Originally posted by Morcs View Post
        Corvette has 1 1/8 master cylinder that has same bolt spacing as the original.
        There was a dual diaphragm booster fitted to rear disc brake optioned vehicles as an oem part.

        Just have to cut the pusher rod as it too long on the
        Thanks for the info...Current master is a PBR item I assume from something aussie. I just reckon a bigger one would be betterer, but finding one with a proportioning valve built in to the master or mounted directly to it allows much wanted realestate for second turbo if I ever change to twins, plus it's a much nicer look.

        Originally posted by oceandonkey View Post
        those feet X 2 please.
        While at bunnings I bought you some 12mmX20mm hollow box section aluminium with 2mm wall thickness, and some socket head M6 cap screws. I'll make you some feet up that are better than mine now I've done it once and found a better way to do it that's neater. Next weekend brah.

        Originally posted by limehj View Post
        I think its a good idea, I blocked off the air vents years ago and wouldnt mind seeing what you come up with for closing off the grill.
        I came up with a few ideas...


        Casting the current one and remaking in carbon. Mate of a mate who did the gauge panel was keen as on the idea. But making it seal around the wiper and around the washer nozzles would be aids to mould properly. Then I'd need to paint match to faded red, with cracks and visible bog, and deep swirl marks, and paint the recesses black so it looks like a grill still...Tough to match. Fuck that. Easy to make a mould though to do so if I come back to that.


        Then thought about priming the back side and laying the current steel grill on a few sheets of wetted unidirectional. Let it cure so it has a backbone of carbon panel... But I want to avoid fixing stuff to the grill if I can help it. Figured with my luck it would delaminate somehow so aborted that idea.


        Then while driving home tonight I saw bunnings was open till 9pm! woo....and it turns out they sell 0.5mm aluminium plate, and a huge assortment of extrusion shapes and sizes in 1m lengths. WIN.


        So I grabbed a few sheets of 900x600x0.5mm plate (if I get it right first go I'll make a shroud for the intercooler), and a length each of T and L section to use later as reinforcement on the back side of the fairly flimsy plate. A couple of rivets aligned so they're under the grill fins to retain the reinforcement profiles should be easy, and a good few coats of matte black after an 80 grit scuff should make it near invisible anyway.

        Also grabbed a 1mm sheet of MDF to use for making a template as it wont scratch the paint fucking around with getting shape and bend right.


        Then thought about sealing it and grabbed some urethane door jamb moulding which is 4mmx9mm in profile and should tighten down to under 1mm thickness. Self adhesive and is a comb profile so lots of sealing potential against the plenum relief that the grill sits in. Other option was a non curing mouldable shit to make some sort of membrane...but I couldnt see something like that on the shelves. I would of liked to have used like grown up's bluetac so I can mould it around the washer nozzle holes I'll make etc. Will keep an eye out for such a product on next escapade around bunnings.


        So I'll make a template and have a crack at getting it all interference fit and trim the grill if needed so it all sits hella frush like factory.
        Originally posted by Bosshoggett
        If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

        Comment


          Originally posted by yohoes View Post
          Hahaha they are definitely rack nuts

          $30 for 4 is some pretty awesome level of fleecing
          http://store.haltech.com/default/tun...nd-screws.html

          Sorry, $15 for 4 plus $15 shipping is where I got $30 from.

          http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=HP0310

          $8 for 12 (I got them cheaper somehow /shrug). And no shipping as they're in every dam electrical store in the country I imagine.
          Originally posted by Bosshoggett
          If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

          Comment


            Rookie mistake removing the cow shit 'n mud Cracka.
            It's a 40 plus year old ute. You just structurally weakened the thing.
            The World's Best Pest Control in Brisbane, at PF mates rates, PM me.

            when all else fails, hit it harder.

            Comment


              50 for $22.50

              http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-M6-...item19f25945cf

              I've probably thrown out a bag full as everything goes tool-less
              This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...

              Comment


                In the spirit of the former owner, stick some cardboard under the grill and urethane it level, your idea sounds good though.

                Accelerator pedals are flimsy as fuck and will bend, old mate must have attempted to brace it up.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by GSRman View Post
                  50 for $22.50

                  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Black-M6-...item19f25945cf

                  I've probably thrown out a bag full as everything goes tool-less
                  We use them still in AV racks

                  Got buckets of them at work.. I could spray them gold and sell them as Haltech spec and make millions

                  Comment


                    Another fun day tinkering away.

                    This started life as a bit of 0.5x900x300 plate aluminium.

                    Hammer formed it to the cowling shape so it would stretch the material for the bends. No real metal working tools except a wooden block and a ball peen hammer that was ridiculously oversized for half mil plate :p Anyway tidied it up so it's got a few less dings than as pictured, main thing was getting the shape perfect so it would seal across the relatively long stretches with no fastening on the top/windscreen side where it sees most of the run-off. Also needed to be reasonably well sealed as this is a high pressure zone at the base of the windscreen, vs the cabin especially so it would force feed water in to any leak path.

                    Quite easy to get it 90%, but getting the angles and radius spot on, and the complex top middle curve which is concave, whilst bending over a hump. Good fun.

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                    Used this urethane adhesive strip that's meant for sealing doors or some shit from bunnings. Has a nice profile to act as multiple levels of seal. Is low enough durometer to squash down to metric fuck all. One piece around the whole lot and a quick offcut across the two bridges (one not shown) incase of any vibration/rattling noise.

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                    All bolted down for first time to check it all looks neat. Barely perceptible change in how the air vent sits. Gaps align fine.

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                    View from top...Roughed the surface with 120 grit and satin black rattle can. Cant tell it's blocked off with a casual glance...anyway who cares if you can or cant.

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                    Gratuitous panel alignment shot... Bit of touching up* the intake vent made it all nice.

                    *belting with a fucking hammer into the required shape as in some past life some fuckhead muppet twisted it.

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                    Random shot of new spigot spacers for the front end. Wheel bores on these 17in rallye clone's are 78.1mm chev. Hubs were 69.5 holden standard. If anything it just makes me feel warm inside as I do torque them up properly. In due course I'll pull the hubs off and redrill for 1/2in UNF studs same as the bum end so they're nutted alike, and 1/2in wheel nuts give a much larger conical seat OD in more varieties of nut so I can do similar to the rear which is 1.5" of engaged thread, and the full face of the seat engaged with the nut so I can comfortably torque them to lots X heaps ^9.

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                    Back face of the jaycar solid state relays. I decided I'd use two, because why not... I can always use the second one for something else in the future and for now they'll run an 044 pump each and stay nice and cool.

                    I decided to give them some wet and dry (embarrassingly knowing the term through OCAU) lapping to ensure they're herra frush with the heatsink. Image shows how concave the surface is which took a good 5mins of 320-400-800 grit to get nice and flat.

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                    Relays mounted to rather gratuitous heatsink with some heatsink paste, and clamped down reasonably firm with some M4 screws.

                    I've mounted this heatsink to the bottom of one of the plenum block off 4mm alloy plates from the last post, which keeps it up and away from your feet if you're a passanger, keeps it in a nice spot away from any potential moisture as obviously the relays are not an automotive type so dont have any weatherproof seals or connectors.

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                    No further pics of other tinkering away for the day which was numerous small jobs. Ghetto as fuck wired this up with a map that looks something like this.

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                    Havn't driven it, but holy fucking shit...silence. Totally silent 044's. The lift pump makes a bit of noise but it is about the same as any stock fuel pump noise. Free rev and you hear them wind down as it comes down to idle. Win.. Didnt fuck with the reg, but injection time at idle and up to 4000rpm in vacuum with 26% duty is unchanged, as is wideband so it's not short of flow. Didnt have dash connected to see fuel pressure. Not concerned in the slightest about it underfuelling with how the map is, and they're very responsive. Will be changing it a fair bit for a nice ramp rate to full speed instead of being asked to change so fast. Probably end up with a nice linear line to 100% duty from whatever I decide will be cruise/idle/low duty point across a much larger portion of the map. Judging by random driving logs though for the 95% of time the pumps will be idling anyway so it's not as if they're constantly cycling around, as I specifically targeted those sort of cells to have at the low duty. Meh, I find it fun.

                    100% at 0 is for cranking check. I'll change this right down to silent mode once it's all hooked in. I wanted the prime noise so I knew it was all working. I'll do some fucking about with a temp gun to make sure they run at a nice low temperature, obviously fuel circulating through keeps the pumps temp relatively stable, but cant hurt to make sure they aren't hot or anything. The lift pump which is a carter unit I might just mount to some rubber then screw the rubber to the chassis brace where it is now. Need to actually run earths through cabin instead of from pumps, along concrete, over ice break bottle and lunch wrapper then to relay, then aligator clamped to bonnet hinge :rotflol:

                    Otherwise pulled some chrome trims off. Going to give them a quick polish and have cleaned some surface rust from non visible bits I could unbolt, primed and sprayed with rattle can black. All in the efforts of staving off cancer till some time much much later.

                    I'm dreading digging around the door pillar to the sill. Suspect I may need to drill a few drain holes or something. Fucks me. will investigate.

                    Anyway, baby steps and getting little bits done which I've overlooked for a long time. All part of turning it from skid ute to nice ute.

                    Also need to buy a second set of rear wheels. Will mount some 595RSR's on probably, no point with a drag radial when I launch off the foot brake I think? Doesn't make the power to spin on the track anyway Fairly sure with those and working rear brakes I can get it into the 1.6 60's which would be nice.
                    Originally posted by Bosshoggett
                    If your planing to drive this on the road and enjoy it, id suggest a second opinion, someone with a history in Australian Rally or Fink River . If your just playing dyno comps. Then ok

                    Comment


                      Nice work Babs
                      The World's Best Pest Control in Brisbane, at PF mates rates, PM me.

                      when all else fails, hit it harder.

                      Comment


                        Good.

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by lickmyleftone View Post
                          Nice work Babs
                          Hattipped.gif
                          Originally posted by thebluerx7
                          The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

                          Comment


                            loving the updates. informative and entertaining

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                              Love the update. Good to see you are making progress mate

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                                Hey Cracka maybe something like this R31 skyline (not sure on size but google is your friend)
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