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    Originally posted by darkside View Post
    Luke I am on yokie A050ís. Medium rear (295ís) and soft fronts.(235ís) The amount of rubber under the rear really helps. They seemed to be offering good grip at Lakeside. Like you, I am happy with the drive there despite it being about 40 minutes. Even Noosa was Ok. But fuck 200kms in it to Morgan Park. Give me a quiet car with climate control and tunes and an easy way home should I have a mechanical. Plan to get the no pics out in her car there too.
    Crazy fast. I miss not getting the opportunity to crash trying to follow you

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      56.7 :oh::oh: That is a sensational time mate, well done.
      2015 Skoda Octavia RS162TSI
      2004 MX5 SE Turbo
      2016 Toyota 86 GTS (No Pics)

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        Yep, any mechanical improvements to better that time are going to be in the 10s of thousands per tenth or two!

        Maybe just need to figure out what's happening aero wise with the oil cooling?
        Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

        My Italian 510

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          Cheers Lads,

          yeah Sam, I really want it running cooler. There should be enough cooler there to get the job done (2 x PWR race spec ones in each front corner and a setrab in the middle) It should be able to just keep lapping. As we discussed on track, the only thing I can think of is it has to be some sort of aero deficiency not getting the required amount of air through the two cores in each front corner. Will have to get some input. I want good life out of this engine. High oil temps wont help that.

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            Spitballing, but since you are running coilovers you must have more space in the trans tunnel than a torsion bar car- and the metzger engines I think keep the same bell housing pattern? Would the next step be a 996 gt3 six speed or cup car sequential?

            Maybe iroc bulkhead mod for middle oil cooler for temps if you havenít already?
            Originally posted by Walt Kowalski
            Memes are only detectable by NSA.

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              Yeah Sam, you are onto it. I could modify/remove the torsion tube as other than giving some structural strength its redundant. The full cage should pick up any of the slack in the structural area with it cut. Its just the cost. I did spend a bit of time looking into it. Would love a second hand 997 cup car box, but if you can find them, they are going to be in the 20's and of unknown history and could open a can of worms to get it up to scratch. Then its a hydraulic clutch, may as well do full pedal box while I am at it, strain gauge shifter, possibly new clutch, install and setup and all of a sudden the wallet is over 30k lighter. Then you get on the slippery slope of, well if I am going to spend that much, i should look at the new hollinger MFT (approx 35k) which is a direct bolt in to a cup car. Much better box by all accounts as it is designed from scratch rather than holinger guts in a getrag case like the 997. Apparently the getrag cases can fail and are NLA. Then I am spending close to what the car originally cost me and I come to my senses and can the whole idea . Hadn't considered the 996 box but that is probably worth a thought. Had been a bit blinkered by "if I am going to do it, its going to be sequential". *googles 996 cup car boxes

              Re the centre cooler, IROC mod is in place. I am happy that one is doing a decent job but its the smallest of the three. Just feel the corner ones aren't pulling their weight. Need to speak to someone who understands a bit more about air flow.

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                Hrmm, maybe have a chat with Barry Lock. He's SE Qld based and has forgotten more about aero than most will ever have.
                Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

                My Italian 510

                Comment


                  If you want to check out the splitter/airflow setup on the 964 turbo that may help- I think they vent air from the side oil coolers under the car not into wheel well (which is a high pressure zone)

                  Yeah I seem to recall the 996 gt3ís share the same crank case as 964/993 (I think even have that same part number on them?) and some people have used them as a core to make aircooled motors by drilling head stud holes back into them that were left blank when used for gt3.
                  If thatís the case Iím wondering if standard gt3 box would then bolt up- itís no sequential but would be a step up from 915!
                  Originally posted by Walt Kowalski
                  Memes are only detectable by NSA.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by clutch-monkey View Post
                    If you want to check out the splitter/airflow setup on the 964 turbo that may help- I think they vent air from the side oil coolers under the car not into wheel well (which is a high pressure zone)

                    Yeah I seem to recall the 996 gt3ís share the same crank case as 964/993 (I think even have that same part number on them?) and some people have used them as a core to make aircooled motors by drilling head stud holes back into them that were left blank when used for gt3.
                    If thatís the case Iím wondering if standard gt3 box would then bolt up- itís no sequential but would be a step up from 915!
                    You. Email. Now.
                    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

                    My Italian 510

                    Comment


                      Hahahahahha,

                      Thanks Lads. Sam, would be very interested to take a look. Have the same feelings as you. Despite having seen other cars vent to the inner guard wheel area, also hear this is high pressure zone which from the very little I know wonít be conducive to good flow through the core.

                      And you are spot on re gearbags. They will all bolt straight up to the 964 cases.

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                        Barry Lock is often across the road from work if youíd like to line a chat BP.

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                          So after Lakeside I thought the car deserved a birthday. Also it developed an odd fuel starvation feel out of a couple of the corners at Lakeside which it hadnít done before so thought I would freshen up the fuel system. Kabab came to the party with keenly priced parts. Fuel system copped a new 044 and filter. While I was pottering around I spotted one of the SpeedFlow fittings had backed itself loose and was weeping at the flex fuel sensor. Very suboptimal having fuel dripping into the engine bay. Might have also been the miss problem when running full pressure. Never hurts to cast your eye over your car regularly. Engine bay fire is my worst nightmare. Keep promising to plumb in a fire bomb.

                          Also dropped the engine oil and threw a new filter at it. Treated myself to a 5 litre oil safe jug as the porka fill point is in a Kent of a spot. Worked a treat. Will try to get it out for a whip to Nebo/Glorious to make sure all is in order for Skids, Beers and Steak.

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                            Stan Adler would be a good person to talk to as well - he'll know why it's not getting cooling

                            http://www.performance9.com.au/about.htm

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                              Thanks Stix,

                              I have bought some parts from Stan. He is a good egg. I have a box of random bits I was going to take down to him. Good tip to maybe take the car down and show it to him and see what he thinks. (He supplied the PWR coolers on it) it should be running cooler than it is IMHO.

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                                Well Gents,

                                substantial breakthrough on the cooling. Had a good look at the front coolers ( 3 of the cunce... 2 x PWR race spec ones in each corner and one setrab in the middle) and decided all of the ducting and venting was solid and they should be doing a decent job. Did some more reading on the oil cooling circuit looking for other problems. In hindsight, having a good look at the external thermostat that controls flow to the coolers should have been an obvious place to look, although they are known to be pretty reliable and not give issues. However in all likelihood its been in the car for and long time and possibly never looked at. Made the decision to do a full replacement, housing and internals. You can get an internal only rebuild kit but figured I would life the whole thing. Invested in a 32mm crowfoot style spanner made for the oil line fittings. They are known to be troublesome as the housing is ali and the fittings are steel. Gave them a good soak in innox the night before and all bolts came undone without massive effort. New unit bolted straight in. Went for road test. Temps climbed up towards 100 deg cruising on the road as always....fuck...shit...cunt....waste of time. Then just as it tipped 100 deg, the stat must have opened and bang, dropped straight to 85 deg and then maintained between 85-95. Typically it would stay up around 105 deg. Huge relief and kicking myself for not having a look at this sooner. The high temps cant have been great for engine longevity. Will get a proper test at the paper clip this weekend for the sprints and hopefully has me all set for skids and steak.

                                Best spanner ever. Saved heaps of skinned knuckles and cursing.



                                New stat and housing

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