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    #46
    Sweeeet !
    " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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      #47
      Looking gooooood.
      What thickness Head Gaskets have you gone with? Felpro Blue?

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        #48
        Nice one. Even nicer one to get your nopics involved aside from the fact it makes it harder to lie about what parts actually cost.
        Originally posted by Dimi
        80mm of penetration isn't bad, i wish i had that much.
        Originally posted by schnitzelburger
        My entire working career pretty much consists of suckin dick and takin names.

        Sometimes im too busy to take names.

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          #49
          What pistons did you use and still end up 0.005" down the hole?

          Comment


            #50
            Originally posted by Roy928tt View Post
            Sweeeet !
            Thanks
            Originally posted by [TUFFVQ] View Post
            Looking gooooood.
            What thickness Head Gaskets have you gone with? Felpro Blue?
            Yeah the felpro teflon blue i asked machinist to supply gasket kit they supplied an endurotec kit from precision.
            Which like TK and machinist said treat them as a fuse.
            These end up at around .038" i think compressed.

            Originally posted by Sketchy View Post
            Nice one. Even nicer one to get your nopics involved aside from the fact it makes it harder to lie about what parts actually cost.
            Thanks have been collecting bits for over 12 months it is good to finally see it start coming together.
            Shit I have actually had this block close to 15years

            Yep nopics is a good sport when it comes to working on the cars and stuff most times nopics comes out with more grease and muck on her then i do lol.
            I think it helps that the shed is just through the door off the lounge.
            Cant really hide too much from nopics as i send nearly everything to her work.
            Nopics is nagging me about EH but boostfarkin is winning atm .
            Im currently requesting for a hoist atm as gearbag on EH is sieve like and i want to redo hot side pipe work i am refusing to wrestle filthy dirty traumatic out of EH to repair.
            But keep buying other toys for the shed.


            Originally posted by chartreusehj View Post
            What pistons did you use and still end up 0.005" down the hole?
            All supplied and machined by the same shop.
            They are SRP pistons with 16cc dish.
            Using scat crank and 5.700 Large journal H beam rods
            As if there was going to be problem i could push it back on them.

            Comment


              #51
              Originally posted by Morcs View Post
              Thanks

              Yeah the felpro teflon blue i asked machinist to supply gasket kit they supplied an endurotec kit from precision.
              Which like TK and machinist said treat them as a fuse.
              These end up at around .038" i think compressed.
              .
              Yep that makes sense.

              Comment


                #52
                Skids??

                Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by Hjtonner View Post
                  Skids??

                  Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
                  Please refer to post #30.

                  Shitstirring nopics /cat in the ac was of higher importance then being in the shed yesterday.
                  Still managed to mark out hiwinder manifold in readiness for a bit of a scratch later this week.

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Well started scratching the itch mostly got the port mostly roughed out on the outlets the light was doing funny things its actually not bad when using the inside calipers on the roughish looking ports using a fast cut burr tends to make it look like shit as well for me. By the time i go over it with the cartridge rolls it will be fine as well as finish the roughing out with a flame shaped burr.
                    Showing some alignment issues may use a little of the devcon stuff to fill the ports to bring back the alignment of the 2 mismatches.

                    Starting to get into it



                    This side is a bit better in that i have something to grind all the way round

                    My rough and ready shot where i left it for the night


                    My decision to go the hi winder is that i cannot fit the COME 4bbl manifold under the bonnet with my carb hat and carby arrangement.
                    COME manifold is drilled for injectors already so have tucked that away for now untill i work out what efi setup i am going to use.

                    I did some rough and ready measurements that the hiwinder is around 40mm higher then the torker manifold that is on it currently which only has around 15mm with the bonnet propped up a little at the back i can machine roughly 20-25mm off the carb flange may be able to lay the angle of the carby back have not measured things enough yet to know what is what.

                    Going to do wonders for the flow etc but do not want reverse cowl bonnet. So will be doing all i can which will probably include changing to a different hat maybe may have to cut the support in the bonnet not sure yet

                    Comment


                      #55
                      If i can dig up exactly how much gain to convince you, cutting injector notches to match the heads was worth doing. TK probably knows.

                      I'll try and find the info from when mine was done but it was quite a few years ago now.

                      Milling the flange might hurt but as you say, its secondary to keeping the bonnet closed.

                      Why not brace and weld up a stock air cleaner housing and use it instead of the hat or make something that looks factory but will hold boosts?

                      Also consider giving the underside of the manifold a heat reducing coating. Don't forget to drill/tap the rear water ports in the manifold and you can fit a decent size breather port behind the carb pad as well.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        There is room to drop the engine mounts 1/2", any more and the sump is in the crossmember and draglink, you could probably machine up a 1/2" spacer to sit under the chassis mount rubbers for the body.

                        It's only an inch but every little bit counts (that's what I tell nopics anyway :p)

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by chartreusehj View Post
                          If i can dig up exactly how much gain to convince you, cutting injector notches to match the heads was worth doing. TK probably knows.

                          I'll try and find the info from when mine was done but it was quite a few years ago now.

                          Milling the flange might hurt but as you say, its secondary to keeping the bonnet closed.

                          Why not brace and weld up a stock air cleaner housing and use it instead of the hat or make something that looks factory but will hold boosts?

                          Also consider giving the underside of the manifold a heat reducing coating. Don't forget to drill/tap the rear water ports in the manifold and you can fit a decent size breather port behind the carb pad as well.
                          I wondered about the notches it would make sense that more flow area on the roof could be beneficial especially with the intention of being boosted.
                          Stock air cleaners are $ for these now i have 2 of but do not want to chop chop on them.
                          Although i had looked into it when originally putting carb hat on and had a piece of sheet metal rolled to the right size for a standard lid size this might be a good opportunity to try a velocity type stack inside kind of like this.


                          Yep on the breather and water crossover behind carb was also thinking fuel pump block off plate also.
                          Got all the speedflow weld on fittings to go from rocker covers to sump aswell.

                          Originally posted by chartreusehj View Post
                          There is room to drop the engine mounts 1/2", any more and the sump is in the crossmember and draglink, you could probably machine up a 1/2" spacer to sit under the chassis mount rubbers for the body.
                          It's only an inch but every little bit counts (that's what I tell nopics anyway :p)
                          Meh i am going to pick up sheetmetal for sump today as long as sump clears crank,rods and girdle in the front all shall be good so will mod sump a bit before fitting so will not have to yank motor after it finds its way in.

                          Well cleaned my RUG roughing out a bit more bit more to go with the cartridge wheels.


                          And a bit more RUG roughing on the inside



                          Will need angled die grinder me thinks for much more internal work.

                          I suppose if it doesn't work the amount of alloy that i have chewed out is weight saving at least.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            There is a huge difference in flow and velocity between the inner 2 vs outer 2 runners so I wouldn't sweat it too much. The biggest gains on that manifold come from match porting the runner exits and cutting the notch.

                            It takes a fair bit of effort to go further than that.

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Originally posted by chartreusehj View Post
                              There is a huge difference in flow and velocity between the inner 2 vs outer 2 runners so I wouldn't sweat it too much. The biggest gains on that manifold come from match porting the runner exits and cutting the notch.

                              It takes a fair bit of effort to go further than that.
                              After spending some time staring at this lump of alloy I would say that is not quite right.
                              I'm no expert as evidence by my porting attempts lol.

                              My understanding is opening the port up after a restriction only adds to slowing down the air charge.
                              From my thinking a reverse taper works fairly well at slowing the air down...
                              So I am making the entry into the ports to help the air turn a more gradual corner and try getting it to taper down to the runner size then open up runner size mainly focussing on straightening as much as possible the runner by mainly grinding on the inside of the corner and at least trying to get runner to head port width.

                              Looks like I can get nearly a parallel width port with a bit of work with the new angle die grinder it is taking a bit to get used to it and really struggling with doing the roof or the floor with it but having success with the walls and experimenting with different shaped cutters/burrs I'm learning how to get some better control with it and will only get better with practice.

                              Comment


                                #60
                                I think being boosted you'll have to try pretty hard to fuck it up. More volume is more air in and the pressure should fill the gaps. Once you efi I think it will be even less critical, or will that be another manifold swap?
                                Originally posted by RVK 355
                                Hold it flat cunt

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