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    Other part of diff mounting plate thingy.
    Thanks to thundercunt for leaving his shit laying about the joint (diff housing)
    Same as the bottom bracketry the plate/ bit of angle stands off around 6.5mm for clearance.
    My level must be broke as waiting for the sound was taking forever

    Made some bolting fixture points and drilled and tapped a hole in the webbing section of the casting.Have tapped at only 5/16 will make it substantially bigger when final fitment is done but for doing this shit same size fastener on everything has its benefits.

    Getting funky with the bender and grinder...

    One side in and partial welded in.

    Rinse and repeat

    Finish welded this bit for now have to design/copy an adjustment arrangement as to be able to dial in pinion angle.


      I'm impressed, keen to see the finished item.
      " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg


        That must be the worlds most complex way of doing a torque arm front anchor!
        Carry on!
        "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."


          Originally posted by Roy928tt View Post
          I'm impressed, keen to see the finished item.

          Am really enjoying this shit after work for a couple of hours.
          Nopics is late in the 3rd trimester now and i am not allowed to stay out bush overnight atm lol.

          Originally posted by Gammaboy View Post
          That must be the worlds most complex way of doing a torque arm front anchor!
          Carry on!

          Plenty of after market companies use a very similar setup
          Didnt like the swinging dogbone joint idea of some of them.
          Trying to keep it all tucked resonable high also.
          Will make a different gearbox x member that incorporates the pickup point as well as a style of chassis brace.
          This was kind of what i am following from mixed with a few others

          If i get good enough on the alloy welding i might redo it in that later on


            Onward,fuck there was some work finish welding the majority of this up still a couple of bits near the diff end once i nail down the adjusters.
            Probably going to incorporate a tail shaft loop on this at both ends will also tie the top rails together and further solidify

            Been thinking of doing some infill sheet metal with the dimple die speed holes undecided as of yet.

            Pissed around with the lower diff mount

            Digging around in my roll cab a while ago i found these they is 5/8unf adjusters .

            Was for another project for caster adjustment on a macpherson strut setup so this is what i have left.
            But have used both types of jam nuts so local hardware / bolt shop should have rh stuff on the shelf but lh will be tall order.

            Simples ill make the same time as of building the shit i purchased 5/8 unf lh , rh taps and dies so ended up being fairly straight forward ordeal.
            Yes i did power tap these yes i know hand tap etc etc At 35 rpms i think it will be ok... which is bottom gear on my lathe.

            Then make sure the 7/8 spanner can be used.

            Then parted to length forgot to account for the parting blade width somehow on the dro ... made them both the same thickness in the end...

            After drilling, tapping and milling a nice flat so that it be used to attach things later rather then having to find center and end points.
            Drilled then reamed a locating hole.

            In the drill chuck is an old broken endmill the same size as the reamer not 100% accurate way but well end truly close enough for this.
            Setting the dro at zero for the hole means turning the part over it will be on the same axis as the reamed hole.

            You get the picture

            Rinse and repeat will e coat them at a later stage thinking about getting the yellow die for my kit to imitate what the factory would have done.


              Made a spigot type mounting with a bolt down the guts to weld on the top diff plate and some bolts that fit in the hole with the correct thread on them.

              Machined the heads of the bolts then welded them into some shafting.

              The spigot will take the load with a long screw down the guts so all it needs to do is lock into position after adjustment. Spigot is slightly shorter then the width of the adjusters.

              Then welded the top spigot points in.

              Part of setting up the torque arm is setting the pinion angle. Have previously messed around with this as was chasing driveline vibrations which was solved by going to a 2 piece tail shaft.
              The best i was able to get the angle to was around 3 degrees down from the crankshaft plane with cutting the the engine mounts down until basically sump on crossmember and gear bag more or less touching the tunnel still had the vibration.
              Currently as it sits though with the tough mounts and half spacer on the gearbag it ends up at at around 4 degrees down. So have set adjuster basically full in so extending will make it level out more once sorted out as street/track use i am aiming for 0 degrees down and drag use only should be 2 degrees down.

              So have tacked into place and now to be measured marked cut and infilled with extra supports.


                Have read build from start to finish. Awesome work, love the sleeper look and all the fab.

                The title really did work!
                Shitter LX hatch
                Perth, WA


                  Originally posted by 355LX View Post
                  Have read build from start to finish. Awesome work, love the sleeper look and all the fab.

                  The title really did work!
                  Cheers thanks.

                  Yep something about being subtle has an appeal to it i reckon.
                  Im contemplating a color change back to its original color along with a sandman mockup decals along the lines of this and is also the original color of mine.
                  The paint on it whilst in reasonable condition it got a bare undies respray in 2001 and starting to show its age as is starting to lift the clear coat in some spots and the odd rust bubble in the doors is becoming evident.

                  Plenty more fab work coming also that being turbo system piping will be very different although similar posy it will create quiet a few hurdles to overcome.

                  On from last lot made the infill pipe work bits to strengthen the mount.

                  After about an hour of welding @ ~90amps it was evident that the tig torch was more then just warm on a winters night. Even through my welding gloves
                  So ghetto spec torch cooling system.
                  Consisting of a filter pump bucket of water and a few bits from the irrigation isle in bunnings.
                  It actually works quiet well considering and can continue plodding along with it after work for a 2 hour stint
                  Will get a sealed bucket and chuck some coolant in at some stage and call it good.

                  Adjustments from the hammer are usually good enough but some times ...

                  Well pretty much sorted this now all it needs is a blast and paint.


                    As we have a new workshop manager around here things have taken a turn in the shed for not getting much done atm pretty sure he will settle in just fine though.
                    Except for the manager is constantly getting tit faced ,shitting and pissing himself ,causing a ruckass and doing impressions of captain thunder pants...and is always off for a wardrobe change then passes out looking entirely hammered.
                    Lucky devil...
                    On dad duty whilst mum needed a bit of time to herself (sleep).

                    I have borg warner s369exe with 1.00 exhaust housing for the 55.

                    The issue being they use a marmon turbine outlet flange on the turbo whilst not impossible to get hold of are more expensive. I also have a 3.5inch v band and clamp that was not used from old system and is fairly easily machined to suit.

                    So need to take the flange to a flat rather then a bevel.

                    Then machine down the outer OD of the flange to match the v band one.

                    Then blended the exit to match the inner v band size better.

                    All sorted and ready to fit up to the 3.5 vband.


                      Right last of my days off work and where the fuck did that go...:w: I was hoping to get the motor pretty much sealed up ie sump on, oil pump and some KBS motor coater applied.
                      All I seemed to do was order shit from the US before the gerry harvey tax was implemented.
                      I took 4 weeks off work whilst the new apprentice was just starting and we are slowly getting the household into some type of routine in which daddy still gets some shed time.

                      So after kicking the sump pieces around the benches which seems like an eternity its time glue it all together.
                      So tacked it up using the safety squint method it took a few goes as per usual had about a 50% miss ratio so about standard. Helmet would not of helped much as couldn't see to weld anyway when bolted to the mock up motor in the car.

                      Then proceeded to entirely fuck perfectly good pieces of er70 filler rod.

                      Hunting around the shop netted a 02 sensor bung and plug for the drain plug.

                      Then onto the windage tray part of things just sitting in there at this stage but think this should work with a bit of manipulation...

                      I may still knock something up out of alloy yet but you get the idea.


                        Congrats on the bun!
                        Amazing build work on the car. Been following with keen interest
                        Turns out, far too much has been written about great men and not nearly enough about morons

                        Originally posted by seedyrom
                        my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn


                          Originally posted by Jim View Post
                          Congrats on the bun!
                          Amazing build work on the car. Been following with keen interest
                          Cheers thanks.

                          Well moving on had been thinking how to clean the sump inside and out and the best i could think of was a bit of muriatic acid.

                          It didn't want to touch the paint it would seem at ~2parts water to 1 part acid.

                          Did a pretty good job of taking the mill scale and rust of things even in a fairly short amount of time.

                          Then hit the painted bits with the wire-wheel of death for most of it then sand blasted the bits i couldn't get to with the wire wheel.
                          Then back int the acid bath until all the derbies and mill scale were gone.
                          Rinsed and airgun dried several time to ensure not sand was trapped any where i also taped up the sump whilst blasting to try and minimize garnet every where.

                          But as the water is a little salty it would flash rust almost instantly so applied a coat of rust convertor to seal things up and convert any little spots that get missed.

                          Then spent a hell of a long time playing with masking tape...

                          Then sprayed some color on after prepping the sump with a thorougher sanding and prepsoled over the whole lot then warmed the lot up with the IR lights.

                          Being in pretty much the middle of winter measures were made to combat the cold ...

                          Couldn't help myself hhaha.


                            Finished the louver punch thingy fell a bt better using this then he bunnings vent..

                            Onward to the top end of the motor i needed to take out 16.5mm off the carb pad.

                            Making hot alloy snowflakes.

                            Thought this may have been a problem...


                              Oh shit...

                              Lop off the bottom of the arm and attach throttle cable to the top, may require re-bracketing and re-routing for throttle cable. My cable comes from the firewall, loops behind engine and attaches to the top half of the bracket.


                                Originally posted by chartreusehj View Post
                                Oh shit...

                                Lop off the bottom of the arm and attach throttle cable to the top, may require re-bracketing and re-routing for throttle cable. My cable comes from the firewall, loops behind engine and attaches to the top half of the bracket.
                                Could of made it italics ...

                                Thundercunt is down not a rage quit but more of cbf levels are high and need to work on something else for a while.
                                Have bought trials bike and has shiny bits and can run over shit and he filled up my jerry can lol.

                                Have got 2 set of covers the grey ones look taller not a commodore buff but certainly different rocker covers.
                                Grey ones are VS the orange painted i am guessing is vp era.

                                As above will make some braketry when i come to that hurdle have set things in place and eyeballed a way of making it work and wont be a problem.
                                I am kind of sharpie marking as i am going IE rear motor water passage cross over. bracket hear

                                So started on getting 3 inch pipework into the Carb hat.
                                Will try and use a oem style air cleaner that has the air inlet on the passenger side so most of the new stuff will still disappear fairly well i hope.

                                Have decided that the extractors will not be needed and will go to the cast manifolds just leaves so much more room for 3 inch piping old setup was only 2.5inch i never thought it was an issue but will try and stuff an inter cooler under passengers feet on the under side of current floor.
                                Also not the greatest in creating fast boost response or my way of thinking anyway.