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Eds Lotus 116 GT3

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    connected up the pixie tubes for the 044. fused 30A relay triggered off the OEM pump loom with AWG16. should be good for a continuous 12A (4Bar) with only a minor loss over the short runs of cable in that sub loom.

    Mit freundlichen Gre

    Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

    Comment


      Originally posted by doctor ed View Post
      Y'all know that's not my photo, yeah?
      Fucken had me going....

      When is the GT3 body arriving on the scene?
      Jaguar XJR, Freelander 2 HSE, Jaguar XKR, MINI Cooper S
      Originally posted by nutttr
      People must assume you are some sort of drug dealer with all these nice cars turning up to a fibro home

      Comment


        Forward progress in this thread is rapid. Pic was convincing. Carry on.

        Comment


          The updated to do list

          Small fiddly stuff:
          - finish routing the front wiring harness
          - mount new radiator, and front cooler circuit hoses.
          - Need a new Spal fan, the old one sounds like a helicopter
          - make undertray air deflector panel with small vortex generators
          - maybe source some 997 gt3 brake cooling deflectors - so close! dont quite sit right, need better mounting solution
          - run wire from a dash pot to the exhaust for 'loud valve' control
          - tidy up center console area, tuck the wiring away, finish it off.
          - fit pk5-880 alternator belt

          Medium sized fuckaround stuff:
          - mount the brake fluid reservoir and hoses to the master cyl- need to sort some fucking Fittings (fuck you!)
          - modify/make new exhaust/muffler hanging Mounts (so close!)
          - sort out the heat exchanger piping and fittings
          - sort out heat exchanger thermostat and fans
          - fix small crack I just caused in the rear wheel arch, bugger
          - make rearview mirror indicator lights?

          Large stuff that i need to do properly:
          - Jig up and reweld the hardtop mounts to the rollbar
          - bond the rear Firewall back to the rollhoop
          - design and make a new rear Firewall section to enclose the W2A intercooler core
          - design and make the W2A core mounting brackets
          - reweld the W2A core water fittings to suit 25mm ID hose
          - reweld the inlet fittings for the heat-exchanger
          - design and make new rear roll-hoop support stays / rear clam support
          - design and make new harness bar

          Random bits down the immediate priority list
          - flywheel Version 2 is in the works due to stuff-up with Version 1
          - Need to make up slave cyl hoses including a bleeder port for the single hosed concentric slave
          - intake pipework
          - exhaust pipework (working on it!)
          - figure out the layout of this goddamn coolant circuit
          - put engine in!

          Things to buy
          - new portable soldering iron

          The updated done stuff

          Small fiddly stuff to do first:
          - retrace the ABS (FL) and DRB (RR) cutout wires, and mark the switches (memory is failing)
          - rerun thermostat sensor wire down the sill to the back of the car
          - rewire new relay and rerun run fan control wires down the sill to the back of the car
          - rewire a new rad fan override switch/relay/loom
          - replace one dodgy dash switch
          - refit the heater control panel and heater piping/valve assembly. set the cable in final position
          - wire up and finish installing the 6sp reverse lockout mechanism
          - pull the shifter and handbrake cables through the chassis in preperation for the engine/gearbox install
          - replace the airbag and pretensioner control module (bought a new one as itll suck to find the one ive got doesnt work once other shit is finished)
          - mount new driver seat mounts and enjoy the newfound legroom
          - set rivnuts in the floor for the shifter assembly and reinforce the fucking flex thing

          Medium sized fuck around stuff:
          - Swap the ABS control module for the 4chan Deawoo one I got (S108196010 C)
          - Bend up new brake cross-over hardlines and fit to the ABS pump
          - Finish the fueltank/pump wiring and speedflow hose assembly, and remount the tank
          - Finish the speedflow lines to the 044 and surgetank

          Large stuff I need to do properly:
          - Fit and bond new crashbox
          - Fit and bond new windscreen surround

          Random bits down the immediate priority list :
          - need to get me some reinforced motor mount bushes
          - i busted the reverse switch on the box off. oops
          - need to mount a new clutch slave cyl to avoid that sinking feeling of a leaking clutch once all assembled

          Bought
          - clutch lines/splitter/bleeder
          - more loom tape
          - stainless bar stock


          Mit freundlichen Gre

          Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
          "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

          Comment


            tank, fittings, lines (inc new olives, d'oh!) pump, wiring, everything, finished, torqued. this little corner is done

            Mit freundlichen Gre

            Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
            "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

            Comment


              Hat tipped. Do you human surgery as good as you car surgery?

              Comment


                LOL, hopefully better. Having patients spontaneously detonate on the street would be bad for business
                Mit freundlichen Gre

                Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                Comment


                  Do you ever feel compelled to start bashing it with a hammer?

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by peal View Post
                    Do you ever feel compelled to start bashing it with a hammer?
                    Mit freundlichen Gre

                    Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                    Comment


                      after a couple of false starts, got me a belt that fits. PK5 880 (continental) runs on the back ribs of the harmonic balancer



                      And note to players at home, that's a 10mm square drive for the tensioner pulley arm, but a 3/8" socket drive fits in there just fine.
                      Mit freundlichen Gre

                      Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                      "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                      Comment


                        And finally got the balls to do this...

                        The engine bay really lacked space for the PWR W2A core. You could stuff it off to the side in a sill but the pipework becomes pretty ridiculous and cramped, and as I'm hoping to run most of the intercooler piping as 2.5-3" I wanted to keep the pipe runs short and simple.

                        So, adios firewall. Left behind is a pretty deceptive space. The triangle produced by extending the fuel tank bulkhead is 21deg and narrows quite dramatically. Fitting a round object in there isn't particularly efficient, but with a bit of fucking around it should all fit in quite neatly.

                        On the up side, there's plenty of room for a new harness bar







                        Also re-welded (again!) the hardtop roof mounts to the roll bar. No pics as it's pretty mundane, but essentially got them to within 1mm of OEM, and everything Lines/bolts up. That said, I checked the diagonals on evererything too this evening... windscreen is dead straight, so that's a good, but the roll bar is about 6mm too far back on the right side. The rear stays aren't in/made yet, so that's going to change things considerably, still was surprised that it's that far out just as is
                        Mit freundlichen Gre

                        Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                        "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                        Comment


                          note to self... finally found engine diagrams (russian Website ffs) in particular of how the fucking coolant System is supposed to go together.

                          http://catcar.info/opel/?l=bW9kZWx0e...c3Njb2RlPT0%3D

                          Mit freundlichen Gre

                          Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                          "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                          Comment


                            had the jackstands out, the sun was shining, and i happened to have the good camera gear in the car...









                            Mit freundlichen Gre

                            Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                            "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                            Comment


                              That looks fucking awesome.

                              Comment


                                looks like a pleasant spot in the world too.
                                Originally posted by Walt Kowalski
                                Memes are only detectable by NSA.

                                Comment

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