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1979 Valiant CM Regal 'Survivor' Thread

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    Its going to save a bit of time, plus I don't need to worry about mounting igniters in the engine bay somewhere.

    They do exactly the same thing, this is just a single device, single plug option.

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      I like it, keeps the engine bay nice and tidy.

      Tim has been slaving away at this, though it's not instagram material because it's all behind the dash. Not that it worries me, social media is about the 519th priority in building this car.

      Shiny mount for the fusebox and ELB unit.



      With the ignitor on the back. Rivnut all the things!



      Also fitted the spare Hotwire up when I needed a set of tyres for the Mini from Robevo last week. Slight size difference there...



      I like the Hotwires way more than the Vectors. Can see this translating into a set of 7 inch wide fronts and 10 inch wide rears when it comes Altra9 rear diff time. Does anyone do a decent 275 15 inch any more?
      Attached Files

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        Gotta love Hotwires for that 70's vibe. I had a set on one of my old TA22 Celicas, I thought it looked ace back in the day!
        Norbie!

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          Saw a couple of Torries with the 17" Hotwires at the ACT Holden day, they actually look pretty bloody good in the flesh, and I've never really been a hotwire fan.

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            Looking good man. How fucking good are nutserts!!

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              Hotwires for the win! My first car (Datto Sunny) had a set, it's what made me buy it!
              Hide yo' wife!!!

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                I'm liking them way too much. I'm thinking a 15x10 wide rear with 0 offset will look awesome.

                They have slightly more clearance than the Vectors on the front, too - might need to be an urgent decision to change when the Vectors fail to clear the Wilwoods.

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                  yep, 15x8"s up front 15X10"s on the bum. WIll look the goods with a proper period correct wheel for here.

                  I'm looking at getting a pair of 8"s or 9"s in the challenger and keep the existing 7"s for the front when I am too old and feeble to turn the steering wheel with 245 or 265 wide tyres.

                  Also having expensive thoughts of running the Formula Black wheels in 15x8 and 15x9 and doing something stupid with tyres such as these: If only Yokohama still made the Y352, then tyre choice would be a no brainer....
                  Last edited by PXL265; 08-10-19, 04:31 PM.

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                    I've checked out those, they look pretty pricey!

                    I'll see how I go on the Kendas given they're all of $450 a set.

                    The new drag radials from Nitto look pretty decent for the rear:

                    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nit-180490/overview/

                    Whether you should drive regularly on the street with them is the real question. Probably safer than BF Goodriches.

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                      I've got some maxxis tyres mounted up now, at five years or so old, but stored in the dark with no weight on them, so good enough for rego and then see what else to put on.

                      The way mine will be driven, age will get the tyres not miles, so soft tyres would be pretty right for me, but yes, something cheaper than the avons would be great, but then how good would the Chugger look with them on with a big white Avon on the proper baggy tyre with old school tread pattern?

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                        More wiring going on thanks to Tim. I only really posted this picture because all the wires happen to be red in it.



                        Also picked up my rechromed hood ornament from Pacific Plating today. These usually had red and blue inserts, but I sort of like how it's all chrome now anyway so I think I'll just keep it like this.

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                          Some wires are not red, WNB.
                          Norbie!

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                            Tim is continuing hard at work tucking in back all the wirey gizzards.

                            She's getting closer to having four headlights in and active for the first time for over five years. Actually, come to think of it, the high beam never really worked properly and always overheated after a few minutes.



                            And the horn only ever really worked slightly, and then only giving a little 'parp' if you pressed the right spot on the steering wheel with just the right force and angle. New horn is the truck version of a Stebel Nautilius - 110Db, but more importantly 300Hz. Enough to make anyone that cuts me off seriously reconsider the life choices that brought them to that point.



                            Thanks Tim! Loving this rate of progress - stuff is happening but not too quickly to mean I'll have to stop just to save money later.

                            There might be an engine test fit and some stage in the not too distant future to map out the wiring loom/get Instagram likes. Slightly complicated by the fact the sump won't clear the rack, so one or the other will have to go temporarily.

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                              Progress is pleasing. Carry on.
                              Norbie!

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                                Got enthusiastic about finally unwrapping the 6.1 in preparation to getting the NAG1 off with the arrival of a borrowed engine stand tomorrow (thanks PXL265!).

                                Once again stymied by my lack of skill and the fact this engine is so much bigger than anything else I've ever worked on. Managed to get the starter motor off easily, as well as the torque converter inspection hatch.



                                Quickly realised though that I'd need to somehow jack up the transmission end and rotate the whole engine/trans through 90 degrees to actually get the bolts off the torque converter. And that involved moving two cars, the engine crane and probably more than one set of hands.

                                So cut open the drive end and tried to see if this engine that had been sitting for 6 years would actually turnover by hand.



                                All looks brand new in there, fortunately. Though for some reason the crank pulley is rusted to fuck. Serpentine belt came off easily but quickly realised you're not going to turn over a 6.1L V8 by hand without removing the plugs first.

                                Think I'll leave that bit for another day! Still have the recurring nightmare that something bad's happened to the bottom end in the 6 years it's been sitting around, but it all looks pretty mint and seems to have been packed and stored well.

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