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2012 1m

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    Day 2 managed 8x 1:07s, 4x 1:08s. Pretty happy with that.

    It sprinkled during lunch which presented an opportunity to learn in the changing/greasy conditions. I knew the kerbs, and paint would offer less grip. Because, that's what Martin Brundle and Cromp say. Ho-lee-shit, I never realised by how much. Track fell away so I got a little inner-bratwurst going before I packed up and headed home. Can't recommend these open pit days enough.

    There is a bit of a knock forming on the front end. Possibly shock lock nut coming loose again or something else. All will come apart again to check how it held up over last 1000km~


      So I didn't do shit, except quickly hose literal shit off after a spin at SMSP.
      LHS oil cooler is the wrong part according to the manufacturer, since they're in Netherlands they want to see the "wrong" bracket they sent is in good condition for reuse. Don't see a reason it wouldn't be.. Screw it, not worth sending back.

      Foggy SMSP North. This was fun - no italics:

      Fog didn't lift until just before lunch. Achievement unlocked, 1st after all had done 1 session - lol. It's interesting, you'd think a softer factory suspension would suit the damp track but the rear diff really tightens up and punishes you harder.

      PB for me @ 1:13.6. Didn't improve as much as I thought when it got drier but at least home in one piece. And extra shit from spinning earlier on wet grass:

      1:13.9 on drying track:

      Gearing is much much better with 18s and a 295/30 rear.

      Last vital bit before all the solid/spherical/monoball stuff goes in, is finally en-route. Decided to go with Bilstein 2ways. Much back and forth with Tractive/MCA Golds - easier to go KW/Bilstein/Ohlins etc. All the cunts that MCA made Golds for on E82s/1Ms were all spec'd differently inc measurements. It'd be a massive a fuck-around going down that road - Yeah nah.
      Ohlins is probably the best kit for the road and along with KW is common tried and tested. Bilsteins... well, apparently they just work. 570/800 rates to start. Puts the frequency around 2.5hz/1.8hz. Springs are cheap and maybe actual testing > mathematics.

      pitch under brakes.


        Car seems to want to rotate easily and quickly mid corner. Will you soften up the rear?
        Originally posted by Mr Jones
        Sneakers prompted the erection. Engine stand made me do something with it


          I took way too long to settle on something, I'm just going to slap it in then overthink it after. Preferably get it on scales first and see how much RHD, engine tilt+turbos, fuel etc affect it.

          The front spring can easily be swapped out. The rear is a hybrid helper/main progressive but not really progressive. Was actually the tipping factor in the decision, the rest articulate improperly and bind on the crappy 0.56 motion ratio. Custom rear camber arm is too much messing around. Other option is rear C/O conversion, which was pushed by Tractive but not going full send retard on this car.


            Forgot what I said before the forum db reverted.

            Originally posted by gmx View Post
            There is a bit of a knock forming on the front end. Possibly shock lock nut coming loose again or something else. All will come apart again to check how it held up over last 1000km~
            Fixed this the "What's a torque wrench way?" FR top strut nut loosened up. Got away this far reusing locknuts, not bad.

            Last Sunday did a clubsprint at SMSP South. Conditions were mixed and actually awesome when it rained. At the top of the esses it was sprinkling pretty good, barely a drop on the S/F side.
            Dry conditions provided a little opportunity for a back to back comparison with last time I was here:
            • PSC2 245/265 19s staggered fitment and OEM midrange boost curve. 1.04.7.
              Felt smoother with less movement especially under hard braking. Could take the kink flat. While it was under-tyred esp on the front, it felt nice, ample control, rear grip. Braking was good, traction was ok, rear lateral grip it shone. Get a bit sideways and it bites a little but that is ok/expected.
            • AD08R 265/295 18" Rays ZE40, 3-4psi more in the midrange. 1.04.4
              Did lots of 1.04s this time. It didn't feel faster, if anything it had a little more front end but it was basically oppo or holding the wheel straight to get out of corners.
              Moved around a lot esp under braking. Was very easy to light up the rear but these tyres are quite forgiving allowing you to pull some hectic ulleh powerslides. Was really fun esp coming up the hill after the hairpin. A few tank slappers were had trying to take the kink flat. I'm sure the marshal at the flag post winced at least once. I'd say I had more fun and that's what it's all about.

            The last 2 outings in comparison to Wakefield, this set don't feel as good. Definitely not seeing the "they're good down to the cords" behavior in them.

            Getting somewhere with Demon-Tweeks and coilovers. ETA is 30/09 as per their automated system :huh: If moons align such as used A050s from WTAC competitors - maybe I can try them out in Nov at SMSP GP.

            There's an intermittent hum/vibration forming when I come to a stop from the front. Weirdly, it's not transmitted into the steering wheel. Discs are worn very unevenly with a blue tinge in them likely overheated when thinner. Visible/feelable runout. Probably down to minimum at a guess and need replacement, will know once I have them off. Meanwhile, looked around for aftermarket OEM fitment discs:
            -Brypar: 2.1k for Prime-S two piece LOL,
            -PFCv3: 10400USD, 630 for replacement rings,
            -Girodisc: 1100USD, 700 for replacement rings,
            -OEM: 475AUD. Lol. M tax? Nah, just aftermarket tax.

            The offset of the hat is the same for the F8x cars (m2/3/4 etc). Why there are two part numbers for the same 380x30mm disc/hat Anyway, if they don't make a 360mm, that's a nope.

            Got some more spherical bearings for the RTABs. Everything will be solid/rose-jointed except the rear top strut mount and the inboard camber arm. Haven't found an OEM that makes that size bushing yet.


              Since August it's been parked for various little things to knock off. Started with a different custom-made to spec (height/throw/offset) shifter and stiffer front/rear bushings for the carrier. Did it all up, before I realised the metal flex disc has a TSB out. Apparently they epic fail and completely shatter launching itself into the tunnel etc. More common fault on diesel models. Oh well, I'll be in there again to do the clutch anyway later on.
              Click image for larger version  Name:	6rsfRipXSSxa_f5jyoXz4IKuR0_YcjDN-0tTP3OVSk4HLaHGpqDpSOwesY2u0WjXtdfzOFjmJKVaQvhsDjpb6vqMTwY7MTQOz4aCajX6zbKPpojeWKypQ4lsOayX_RpEKhyyozX7q47w_GFYEo5tE08rl9yaJgMjoy6eqJjC2txeA0EasO6jb_8u1TG5NLDZcOatKePYEoPHvyNnC5i0IPeq0Xe9At2rmriTHnE3R_n41MiRaD4cS6F9-H8y22s Views:	0 Size:	88.0 KB ID:	7083310Click image for larger version  Name:	9oO0qSM6Mi42yvv9t6tsDN6vn1ld4ppyVR79V54l_rUXfzstFicVkCegPMfDFgNeaNam4l8lOJAbB176jX1-mBRN5JVqaM7RX8ADXdb131eCHtZKoFOXt0Yxcr2ykaWZWBQWV1Uu_UQzg4YJGTBGbzfBNoKVd4czHi0u3IpF7qsjPepzuc-QBmodUNGhTcXUwp8if3g4mBYdoo7ls3Fk6ccPs_Pnqvy_jQaLsLHBtQYbpvGJFXvha8pffUdxqYk Views:	0 Size:	266.5 KB ID:	7083311Click image for larger version  Name:	Ee0uU9Z7pA9sEEhzHRSAa1gt564KZGVYppkKMTP7E6hJ4tkWcw9aaBwnw0mHkW7soXT-LHRe9pchaoLWkqy4OglnWItXuSD9b3EXGkE6dmFShgDK5XGMWKy-Eob9ZyYcLONHsnTTOWOeua0GhHJqU0zwkwJLrjmaO7ASmIC5Zt8h_COWxI-NbtDkQztydMlzvjBm32vadBUCcZSEbdUaQ-W5QnfXowcvkOylCBFdTqD-wQWHFKRKutIKIm8PxrQ Views:	0 Size:	215.1 KB ID:	7083312
              Cleaned more mud while I was under there.

              Coilovers got sorted out. It took a phone call but an apologetic chap; Sean @Demon-Tweeks sorted it out. Ordered a bunch of fasteners that need to be replaced to tackle it. Went with a Monroe rear upper shook mount with stiffer durometer.
              Camber/top plate design is pretty good. It looks like a 2-piece design with the monoball bearing housing attached with a pair of hex screws. Sits deep enough that if you want to go full-retard, you don't need to notch the towers to move the damper further inboard. The limiting factor are the sliding slots itself. Anyone that wants over -3.5~ can just make a new offset plate further inboard from the damper position. Or this plate can probably be drilled out to move the bearing housing and hence damper inboard without fouling the strut tower at all. Something to consider down the line, although I will probably not.
              Click image for larger version  Name:	TlTf5kQmkl-enRSrQ8V73Gk8h4D84DluhIfyFIDneU3FISzOVF24OOlT3xKh31QcfDEY8gpnedtTbmtOhCftZPIl2gZBhDBaA1WufbfciGA3DkyNuZxZQwbmnCcG4NOZofZZ1unbHCki43qeqqmihVAdVhCCjCmarsJwvLid7fFrA3CUTP-dejfMO4GODiHsAG5D1BTdgn8KDtuhgEo4yyCSSq6O8S1nyO51jSUuEw00aBfw-f4OwYL_YSCzelj Views:	0 Size:	305.3 KB ID:	7083317Click image for larger version  Name:	qbGEwKqyfU3S46zqXd6mmwUYlgLJdg87kF_IAvoY751XYzlEo_G4MuBEb4qtCmhBTRrao2BwIZJmxIXQwCnRJcTkLiuGBpVJHad-v7r63qJAofc_kjDOq97na-zxu9TBRAodOb-q22saI_63lYHZM--7WiFpS_gcB8G5nV-3Gc_Ylekr82ITzTxAFsrhxITh5g6MZLpPXxl73zdGEzcwR5i3QiUCN19te45LPdAORc9kNLbdndqwXsjyQlYzzIe Views:	0 Size:	102.9 KB ID:	7083318Click image for larger version  Name:	xZkrKwJvfYZ-UiZLah_D7PSWE9sMU7D_WVZky1j4LY1GQQOows-wT_JWqEdRjwGLh3l93hiSYj1TlEbHohFPT3qPIgBV3pOwbzML6RBRdor7VaY_wCStHkggoxCKUcKkwbdIh_lPFAdImEUMuZRiKYRY0_-f1RTR4LjwYMYLtPEjW_tqVw_0KXYtPkxeb1GurKFVX8tALxpDQY-P2ZD-PS1vlea-NTt_CzMIGJ7y0r9ZkRi2ZJli2K_0O8aIAQN Views:	0 Size:	54.3 KB ID:	7083319Click image for larger version  Name:	Mq4_3Og89qCfoowXWB4ajddvRokyoSO3ZD956Hx7H4B7xDJ5gBdCBKDUfm3MTAXMXcwPB2mxsC-DRKPulkc6a9HnNKqO_RUSOcSD6NI-PxrCkJmq0fWA8J0vI2PqLMW30ToA8gzk5dGGJ0cYYrqGpY95f2J0IWfrZAqPH1GLnqA7V-0FqjAHFFOVHcIJ_3SlmLP2l55zdHGk3z1dIjBx65HlqEbTowQssMongIJd0YE6Mekfuk7Jb2zGLvq0LyZ Views:	0 Size:	82.6 KB ID:	7083320

              Removed the rear upper camber and guide arms, front castor / tension arms to replace rubber bushes.

              Put in the front struts while I was there. Little comparison:
              Click image for larger version  Name:	-FI-DeQ-rHjR3UQqwenhnsK6GrR284wjuzlub1NIuU5L4Nyfk8UIBLOwJRBO3s4LkXjdKxAe2MOBxJ5leuzMa-OHFiEBDNAGnRaFkRbOeuyzi_zKGb9_e9i1fpOr_CqlsxNH3tMxuWM5-FGiGWcoSpizLc2zIikpnBnA3WD-ql7gmGIPBOvPewC9jCqdFRGpjN0mETab2DEwtABCKrqYUqqu7aHnN_Niyp-ili8mf6NqGNPOxidRfvSErI3Jbxl Views:	0 Size:	301.3 KB ID:	7083322

              Stacked OEM reinforcements on top. No one really uses these on E8x/E9x cars. Thought behind it being due to the triangular shape of the Bilstein top mount, this would spread the forces the tower is subject to a bit better. I figure these are factory fitted on specific markets or "rough terrain" trim / region models:
              Click image for larger version  Name:	nGZ-ILcwFHy5gCfo_6eVtu-zKFwN_BLQ0qwkByKRB9-_zh7__26zS-cFNFWrtj5CZPEgUt4_r6fIgon1UvBL8OQuxd55j2g8VY-vzrW33F2jj-_Uv5dzlp7yrwkrky0nG-Dw_O9glbfH3B1AlI5YQTN21zQLAl6dDkl_LolTiFtfLNC3tQBBdLJ2TrV6P25iu97_TEmOVMOBGi526-9glsV_MSzAwswvxYoKDWjbQvj_Gl6aRWSr6ZZKV3_MBMv Views:	0 Size:	365.2 KB ID:	7083324

              There's no preload on the spring stack, so it was easier with this particular Bilstein camber plate to insert it into the strut tower, then insert the damper in the top mount's bearing afterwards. Had a brainfade moment, threaded up the top nut on the damper then unloaded the suspension. Idiot me, didn't snug up the hub pinch bolt enough and the entire hub collapsed and put a lot of stress/force on the brake line. The absence of a front caster/tension arms didn't help. Can't see any cracks on the exterior or obvious damage along the crimps, but will have to test it and ideally just replace it.

              RF in:
              Click image for larger version  Name:	Fv8aWYPW9Vw-ywPSDitAFKz9y2KUf5cCSMJJ6TCITOeeylqRZQU1AptV3Bz9j9DIciV1Pe1otlH1cQpT5M1qpIZa2hIkPL9hRBkdlGfiLJmVfCtUUfvgefafSKcDu_9WHu4cbgovItVYpKK3dBs-PnLzEIKGgMz6jqIONitDKfvVskGp9YWtB8sICern6s45UYyY6FLvScLXmr7ABiUDJaQPe3issshSNGelShRtTfXspylPo3E2p8_vW4IRut- Views:	0 Size:	169.5 KB ID:	7083326

              These came back in time for the weekend home stretch. Hook the two upper arms up before I can drop the lower camber arm for the rear dampers/springs otherwise. Then get someone else to do the subframe mounts and RTABs.
              Click image for larger version  Name:	pyRJrQzhOUfIRN8pxEPScC25j7PhKXhni_4mALcwrGwN72YEi9gXQ4PRAchaIb3MYPaX6r7r_tmNNmcWJl0LA1GVqlC1rVXvYhPVAm83oKKiW0WrE22HWEfS3_qolLd-KpkDubT2wzPohMBV4GecMwU37cTOzwS4hzrNTO8lms7zxmPNSqyQ0oGOmhp4gHtY-MMojZif992glL_r5FG64MtpSXHyjUExhqu6LzrHIzYwGu0qd43mds0SMPKoC4n Views:	0 Size:	116.5 KB ID:	7083327

              The trailing arms on these cars are simple. The bushings are rubber and pressed directly into the subframe and knuckle/upright. Inboard should be easy. Outboard might be a bitch due to the casting and difficulty getting a cup/press on it.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by gmx; 18-10-19, 09:36 AM.


                pics dont seem to work
                1988 AW11 9A-GTE - project #1 | 1984 MA61 1JZ-GTE - project #2

                Originally posted by Walt Kowalski talking like a crazed hobo
                The major arrests will start from 1st January 2019.


                  Originally posted by trdee View Post
                  pics dont seem to work
                  Cheers, fixed. I think.


                    Originally posted by gmx View Post
                    Collecting a bunch of shit to improve it but keep it decent for the street:
                    Solid rear subframe mounts. Russian two-piece ones that don't need ridiculous force to press
                    Spherical bearing front tension arm - the OEM rubber causes much aids. Definitely contributes to the braking behaviour.
                    Poly rear shock mounts - who knows why the Ms use the same part as the non-Ms.
                    18x10 all round with probably a slower but more consistent tyre compound. AR-1s, cheap too.
                    Most importantly, 2 way coilover. 3 way is above my head and I lack PF nigga baller rich status.

                    It's 180kg lighter than an E92 M3 with the same weight distribution (51/49). Can a lighter car get away with more spring or is the opposite? Do I even want more spring as the circuits we seem to have are pretty bumpy? Fuck knows, more reading and calcs do.
                    Finally, can say all this is done. Except ended up with a staggered set of 18x9.5 and 10.5 rears and scrubbed AD08Rs. The rears, have a distinct bluing when seen in sunlight. I only noticed this when i placed the wheels horizontally underneath the car making space in the garage one arvo. I'm assuming they're done? Got another set of scrubbed pair to go on in 285 size, down from 295.
                    Front lower spring perch is pretty close to the tyre sidewall, about 10mm away. Hopefully it is enough clearance. I set the front only 5mm lower due to this. There's more negative rake as a result with the rear sitting 17mm lower. I'll probably ditch the helpers or get a shorter main spring and go softer at the same time. Springs are 100nm/140nm. Might go something like 80nm on the front especially with a sway bar.
                    Shot of it loaded on ramps:
                    Click image for larger version  Name:	L652urusRbRd-saumVSzKHVYMWpE_gfZa__vz24Hf9lTIa-AGaTK6fFQF8TYXwlQEDPHrdmiQalvR9B91ZIlkFQiTb1Uoa9PHTVhwjRIcN29Hw5yUJMsMmH6svr-F9F7Vx7dCD0iWZHzIkBzRdJET2iX8KuTGUSQjPdspJHN06W0hbR68IoCLV6WhKQr0xISYBqYgmgk6CoDXagXJQjYMJK794myvzsqJubo721aaSTXDWYQA72TkuST7NBHpQi Views:	0 Size:	167.0 KB ID:	7090705

                    Weighs 1478kg. Corner weights are lul "RHD Euro turbo car":
                    Front: 361 / 419 (da fuq going on here?)
                    Rear: 356 / 342

                    Ended up with
                    -3.4 Front camber, 3mm toe out
                    -2.5 Rear camber, 2.5mm toe in

                    Added more toe out on the front. Took some toe out of the rear. Could go either way. I could never get two consecutive handling laps out of them. The time would be similar but the rear is basically oppo or hold the wheel straight on the 2nd hotlap :D Now this time I might have a worse/overheated front tyre.

                    Switched plugs after my tuna hounded me for almost a year. And got rid of the aftermarket metal throttle / charge inlet pipe.
                    Originally posted by gmx View Post

                    Acquired the following for reliability:

                    Will be made more reliable using proper clamps and not shitty T-Bolts. Don't get the American love affair with tapered threads, imperial sizes n shit, and of course, shit clamps like T bolts especially on Aluminium pipe.
                    Reliability in italics, such truthful typographic emphasis. Never felt this thing ever sealed properly. Will log the car later but it feels punchier. Might also be because I haven't driven it in a while. I'm not going to add weight/WMI to this car so it can fight right off. Old 2 piece chargepipe from a 335i before GFC BMW decided to cut costs and use a failure prone 1 piece version. Replace rubber accordian with a silicone 45 and we're good. The part I got from the wrecker also included DVs so I could salvage some plastic non-butchered quick-disconnect fittings. Bought some viton orings to replace originals that seal up the connection before fitting up Turbosmart DVs in along with it all. Easy job, and subtle end-result.
                    Click image for larger version  Name:	XsWjpOB3iJEBl55uS-WHjlWpug7Srth-dgWcI9581K2hh01swh7NVX8BNZiiKTimGybHWV3rr6s-b68C-PolHPBGtPJ5s1vAnkfW31JBazAUjs6KZgiBViizgag2O5ocWxDHJLrPW7QtkyRU8RKFf8_tzU1rnAIzoud09_l9lIyoOfp5WIEjlXsjGHVTX6b4gS7Cqt2-f4WUgxm34xh6skpSrSqXF5TEIYqC2KJhmGCsczk4GDU9g4tNDyx1Ue- Views:	0 Size:	362.3 KB ID:	7090707

                    Next things to do is get a random china flat ABS lip so that takes a beating rather than the bumper. Wedge some brake duct hoses in there and feed them through / past the oil cooler lines and into the front wheel well. Good times ahead, zip ties will finally make a contribution. Something like this:
                    Always thought it looked shit with it not going the full width of the bumper. It will have a purpose.
                    Click image for larger version  Name:	attachment.php?attachmentid=735609&stc=1&d=1345124011.jpg Views:	0 Size:	497.6 KB ID:	7090706

                    50k km out of these rotors including 10 sprints/trackdays where I avg a dozen or so hotlaps, plus a handful of aborted laps and a 120lap weekend where half of them were at least hotlaps. Not bad for standard cheese graters. New OEM rotors on for now. PFC/Brypar lead time is about 1-2months, next time.

                    Needs a quick clean and I'll take some pics then.


                      Looks aside would a M2 not have all these issues?
                      "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower." - Mark Donahue Penske Porsche 917

                      "In Japan we no give fark for Subaru" - Trust Japan Technical Director
                      (TM - AVENGE)

                      "You can never have enough power. I remember when we had Group B cars... THEN we had enough power!"
                      Juha Kankkunen - Rally of Argentina '02


                        M2 looks good! They have as much issues with oil cooling and plastic pieces exploding along with advances (aka driver aids imo) like an impressive active rear differential, solid subframe mounted from factory, twin disc clutch from the S55 etc. My foray into RWD is a departure from AWD shitboxes, I would rather jump in butt naked in the deep end than have something like an active diff and EPS dumb things down for me. Natural progression for some, not for me. I'd like to try either something mid-engine, lighter FR car (86/MX5) or dedicated non-ABS car that hasn't been molested by flat-brimmers next.


                          Originally posted by gmx View Post
                          M2 looks good! They have as much issues with oil cooling and plastic pieces exploding along with advances (aka driver aids imo) like an impressive active rear differential, solid subframe mounted from factory, twin disc clutch from the S55 etc. My foray into RWD is a departure from AWD shitboxes, I would rather jump in butt naked in the deep end than have something like an active diff and EPS dumb things down for me. Natural progression for some, not for me. I'd like to try either something mid-engine, lighter FR car (86/MX5) or dedicated non-ABS car that hasn't been molested by flat-brimmers next.
                          I've been driving the E36 M3 & Z4M back to back a bit in recent weeks + an E92 M3 on the weekend. There is a lot to be said for light weight and no nanny aids. An MX5 shits on all these cars for pure fun. My understanding is the later BMW's only got worse in this regard.
                          The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.


                            I'd say most of the E36/46/82/9x are very similar. The bigger advances are definitely the nannies. Front suspension was changed a bit after the E46 to a double pivot MacPherson. The F series is almost identical to the E9x/E8x. Ie a lot of E9x M3 owners use the front knuckles for the F8x front brakes which offer nothing but aesthetics; the pad is tiny and they eat through them esp on any sort track driving. With DSC completely off, I can still feel it does things with the rear brakes that I'll try coding off/disabling later at a lower speed track like Wakefield. It also artificially boosts the pedal at higher velocities, you sometimes hit ABS early as a result and the modulation initially feels "different" until you get used to it. Attached a PDF of generational suspension development and less compromise on the larger cars (5/7 series etc) or what they did on the Z cars to package everything.

                            I think I mentioned earlier in this thread I wanted a Z4M. It didn't work out. Low availability and the only one I test drove had multiple red flags. E46 was a nope because it tears itself apart eventually. E36 wasn't the right timing; I couldn't dedicate the time anymore to paying attention to something of the vintage; things will wear - that's just a fact. It had to be "newish" enough for peace of mind and let me get some career/life goals out of the way too + no messing around 4cyls anymore nor R/S-chassis/brimm'd MX5s. It was my only car for a while until enter shitbox Golf that has low comp and head off at the dealership atm with only 1500km on it - lol.
                            Attached Files


                              Good. Fun.

                              Heading into T9 with the throttle pinned was a pleasant surprise. Too many changes on the rear to pin down what's contributing where. The biggest obvious one is less mushiness on acceleration and a much more direct lateral connection. I've felt the rear laterally shift before the rest of the car follows suit - this is practically gone. It doesn't detract from what the car originally was either which is great.
                              Running a mish mash of tyres, super old RF which started vibrating, decently used LF, newish rears. I didn't bother playing with the damper settings or swapping tyres side to side.

                              Cal I agree, you can't hide weight no matter what bs journos etc say. Especially obvious on braking/retarding the car and just generally throwing it around. Something considerably lighter and potentially away from dual duty suitability for pure fun is definitely something I want to try.
                              Last edited by gmx; 19-11-19, 11:15 AM. Reason: YT Tags aids


                                The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.