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$800 shit heap EP71

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  • trdee
    replied
    2056 is well suited and has a little headroom over the power you are currently making. The compressor map suits a motor aiming for no more than about 250hp/185kw at the flywheel (roughly 160fwkw in a transaxle car), at 1.7 bar/25psi

    The 2560 is a shit turbo. It doesnt want to make power above about 14psi, it's designed for bigger engines running lower boost making moderate power (IE, a stock SR like what theyre normally fitted to)

    I would go a GT2056(i have nfi how to read exhaust charts but meh, external gate = no worries) or maybe an EFR6258, although it probably wont make boost till at least 4k. It would go well on the 5E bottom end tho

    Leave a comment:


  • foamy
    replied
    So went and flogged the fuck out of this at Toyota Nationals in Dubbo.

    While the Starlet did not blow up. It made me realise a few flaws in the current set up. Mainly with the turbo being waaaayyy to big. It's kind of fun on the streets where you can give it a hit in 2nd and blow people away. But when it comes to a motorkhana & 1/8th mile racing it's pretty fuckin useless.

    So I've been speaking to Commotion on PF and he is going to sort me out a merge collector and flange. Plan is to make my own manifold, I'll most likely do a high mount because they are far easier to work on and service if need be.

    Only thing I'm umming and ahhh'ing about is which turbo to go with. The two I've been thinking of are -

    https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performanc...charger-detail

    &

    https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performanc...charger-detail

    It's hard these days with all the messed up photobucket links to look at actual dyno sheets of people using either of these turbos. Best info I can find is the GT2056 will see 1 bar by 3200rpm or so. The GT2560 is probably seeing 20psi by 5000rpm (same to what I have now) except it will probably make some usable boost below that.

    I suck at reading compressor maps, anybody care to help and work out what the GT2560 would be seeing at 3500rpm / 4500 rpm / 5000 rpm? (VE 90% efficiency).

    The only other thing I need to consider is that I have a 5E bottom end here which one day may be used. So I don't want to choose a turbo too small. I really like it when they have heaps left in the top end so don't want to miss out on that!

    Leave a comment:


  • trdee
    replied
    just gonna shout out for myself for being a mad cunt and diagnosing the injector fault :D

    25psi tuning run stat

    Leave a comment:


  • foamy
    replied
    There was a bit of back & forth with ARP but in the end they were adamant that the stud would take 60ft pound no problem. I took some photos of the head to give you an idea of how much material needs to be grinded out to fit the studs -


    You can see in this photo how much the studs need trimming down to clear the scissor gears -


    Anyway she is all back together, just needs a tweak up on the tune. One of the wires on the injector plugs "fell" out so spent a bit of time working out why it was down a cylinder.

    Leave a comment:


  • Roy928tt
    replied
    Hmmm, that is a very disturbing piece of information.

    I completely agree with you, 60 ft/lb for a 9mm stud is completely over the top.

    I say go with your gut feeling on this one.....

    Leave a comment:


  • foamy
    replied
    I have this odd feeling ARP have fucked up big time re: the head bolt I broke. Going through their technical guides, for a 8mm fastener it is 32 ft pounds. For a 10mm fastener it's 70 ft pounds. Spoke to them on the phone earlier and they told me 35ft pounds is what they recommend for a 9mm fastener. So why the fuck does their little instruction book you get with the bolts say 60ft pound? No wonder heaps of cunts end up breaking the 4E ARP head bolts. I think they have messed up and put too high a rating on the instructions?

    Edit:
    According to this - http://arpcatalog.com/24/#zoom=z

    The ratings in their tables are 75% of yield strength (kits may have a different rating, page says to follow whatever comes with the kit).

    If they are telling me 35ft pound is what that table should have for a M9 stud....then that would be 75%. 100% yield strength from that is 46.66 ft pounds....which is a fucking whole lot less than 60ft pounds!

    Leave a comment:


  • I'm DJ!
    replied
    Originally posted by I'm DJ! View Post
    How's it going? More parts here?
    Originally posted by Mr Purple View Post
    There was one of these for sale on one of the various Facebook groups for $750. Have to admit I thought far too long about that, they're awesome!
    Welcome to the dark side my friend
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • LB-XP
    replied
    Originally posted by foamy View Post
    Yeh this wasn't a cheap exercise. For the 10x washers, 10x nuts & studs it came to a whopping $577.00
    Fuck me, that's turbo Starlet tax right there!

    Leave a comment:


  • foamy
    replied
    I don't think they are L19 as they came in a black finish (although they did come in satty bags with a label on each bag).

    Leave a comment:


  • dnegative
    replied
    Fuck, you got a whole car for another $220!
    What are the made of, have to be careful if they are L19

    Leave a comment:


  • foamy
    replied
    Yeh this wasn't a cheap exercise. For the 10x washers, 10x nuts & studs it came to a whopping $577.00 Reason was ARP didn't make these studs in their lower grade material so had to pay for the uprated stuff. I guess being M9x1.25 they would make fuck all of it too so there would be some cost associated with that.
    Just happy I found a solution & one that can be reused in the future if need be!

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Vegana.
    replied
    A lot of places put their own ARP kits together, with appropriate mark-up.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr Purple
    replied
    There was one of these for sale on one of the various Facebook groups for $750. Have to admit I thought far too long about that, they're awesome!

    Leave a comment:


  • dnegative
    replied
    Same as a 4A head, few nicks with a carbide burr and your golden; yeah odd ARP don't sell a kit but it's probably such a low seller they are not really interested. Drilling blocks and heads for M10 is a whole lot of nope without putting the block on a mill.

    Leave a comment:


  • foamy
    replied
    Just got back from holiday.

    Looks like the gamble with ARP paid off. Head will need some mods to work though. 8x head holes look to be fine, the the back 2x are close to the valve train and I can't get the nut onto the stud. Can probably hit it with a die grinder to give it clearance. Part numbers from ARP are -

    AIW670N - Washers
    AIN12-2 - Wrenching nuts
    AI 4.240-2B - Head stud (x5 required, this is the shorter stud)
    AI 5.030-2B - Head stud (x5 required, this is the longer stud)

    Not sure why they don't advertise this in a kit? Sure the head needs mods to make it work but far cheaper than drilling out a block to suit M10x1.25 + fiddling with the head.

    Leave a comment:

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