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$800 shit heap EP71

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  • trdee
    replied
    ep71s with no heads seems to be a thing huh

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  • I'm DJ!
    replied
    How's it going? More parts here?
    Attached Files

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  • LB-XP
    replied
    What a mission. Nothing worse when this kind stuff happens on a cheap project car!

    Hopefully you get it sorted again for minimal cash outlay

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  • foamy
    replied
    Not much progress on this. Found some busted bits so ordered replacements from Amayama UAE while waiting on the head.

    Ended up calling ARP in the US. Went through some specs with one of their workers. May of found a head stud solution that doesn't involve re-tapping the block.

    A14.240-2B is the head stud part number for Hayabusa (M9x1.25). Length is 10mm more than the longer of the 2 head bolts. Looking at the head, looks like there is plenty of clearance anyway for a longer stud so no problems there.

    300-8342 is the part number for the wrenching nut or whatever they call it. OD is .615" or 15.6mm. Size on the regular bolt head is around 14mm so these nuts should have plenty of surface area. Washer diameter is 19mm.

    Found a spare head, just trying to tee up with old mate to go and collect it. Will present both heads to the engine shop, they can then pick which of the two is best to use. Will also update on if this head stud solution works or not. I fuckin hope so because it's the best part of $300!

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  • foamy
    replied
    FML.

    Got this all back together over the weekend. Fired it up, car was running like shit. Set the timing no problem but the car would chug when given some revs. Went through the ignition system but couldn't find anything wrong.
    Pulled the plugs out, CYL #1 was full off coolant. Checked the coolant idle up valve, no leaks from that. Pulled the head off.....where the shop has welded the head it has cracked again between the combustion chamber and the coolant jacket.

    So I have two options. Either get the head repaired again or replace it with one in better condition. Or I have a mint condition 5EFE head here. Same head except this one is configured for coil on plug (well actually 2x coils running 4x plugs).
    Just trying to work out now how much of a headfuck it would be to splice that into the existing loom? I have the 5EFE loom here so it's just a case of working out how viable it would be to have it done. Not too sure what needs changing in the ECU, if it's a case of ticking a few boxes or changing ignition maps etc etc.

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  • I'm DJ!
    replied
    What a cunt...

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  • dnegative
    replied
    You have my Bahco/Snap-on/CDI wrench;
    It's calibrated and good. But the one you have I gaurentee is good too.

    But yeah, fucking ARP

    Leave a comment:


  • foamy
    replied
    No it's not one of those deflecting beam types, it's the one where it makes the clicking noise (don't have to reset it). I've borrowed Dneg's deflecting beam one now (gets calibrated regularly) so I can rule out if the wrench somehow fucked up.

    I guess I'll send the bolt back to the supplier and see what they say.....

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  • Bob Vegana.
    replied
    Is your torque wrench one of those ones that you have to manually set the clicker?

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  • AlexinPerth
    replied
    It was the bolt.
    You would have felt a significant change in torque required to break a good bolt.
    If they all felt the same, then the bolt was damaged.

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  • foamy
    replied
    Need some advice here.

    I've put heads on a whole bunch of engines and have used ARP studs / bolts a whole heap of times without issue.

    Chased all the head bolt threads prior to installation. Went through the usual bullshit of hand tight > 20 ft pounds > 40 ft pounds (as per ARP instructions) & then onto 60 ft pounds (wrench is in Nm which is 81 Nm for 60 ft pounds).

    First bolt...turn...turn...turn...........turn. By this point I'm worried it felt like I've gone past 81 Nm. Back off the wrench to 70 Nm. Wrench clicks. Up it to 75Nm. Wrench clicks. Up it to 80 Nm. No click from the wrench, turn the bolt a bit more and bang. Bolt snaps maybe 4-5 threads from the top.

    First thought was the thread has been broken inside the block. 2nd thought is the wrench is fucked and wasn't reading correctly. Thread in the block is mint. As a test I set the wrench to 80 Nm, and try the 2nd bolt. Bolt goes to 80 Nm as expected, wrench clicks. Try the 3rd bolt....same deal.

    I'm assuming at this point I've gone too far on the first bolt, but I can't possibly think why? Lubed all the threads + underneath the bolt heads. Only solution I can think of, is somehow the torque wrench has fucked up and on 80 Nm it hasn't clicked to let me know I've hit that torque point?

    Question being, is there something else that could of given me a false reading on the wrench? Is it possible for a torque wrench to give such a bad reading as to snap a bolt? I mean these were brand new ARP bolts...how far over 80 Nm do you need to go for you to break one in half? Could it be a dud bolt? The other 9 + the HG are now junk, I can't go and buy a single ARP bolt from my supplier.

    Not too phased about the money, I just want to know if it's something I've fucked up or if my tools have failed me. It's not a deflecting beam type....if there is say a 10% tolerance on them. Could 90 Nm be enough to break one of these ARP bolts? Just fucking weird that the first bolt breaks.........2nd and 3rd ones have no issue going to 80 Nm (and didn't feel like I was over tightening it either).

    Leave a comment:


  • dnegative
    replied
    I didnt even look at the head, eyeballed ok and yeah, headgasket looked mint.
    Oh well, one of the many reasons why you should run a good coolant. It sat for quite a while with a mixture of shitty water in it.

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  • Euronymous
    replied
    Sweet, oh well time for 35psi then hahs

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  • foamy
    replied
    Fuck the 1UZ lol double trouble.

    Engine shop just phoned. I never eyeballed the head (probably should of!). Coolant galleries have corroded into the combustion chamber. So I guess there was never an issue with head bolts or the gasket itself. Engine shop is welding it up now as we speak so it's not too big an issue but obviously was enough to cause problems on full boost.


    Should have the head back tomorrow, maybe back together by this weekend.

    Leave a comment:


  • trdee
    replied
    i see youre getting some practice in before we need to do this to my 1uz :D

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