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    Originally posted by Guido View Post
    I missed this, very cool pick up.
    It's as close to borts as I can get for the moment!

    I'm travelling interstate until tomorrow and am looking forward to this list arriving..

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    And because it was coming from the USA and I couldn't wait I went to golebys for these, which I'll reuse on the ma70 if the ipd stuff turns up in the next few days.

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    Originally posted by thebluerx7
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

    Comment


      What's the intercooler like on these?
      2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
      2007 KTM 250 SX

      Originally posted by Monza
      I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

      Comment


        pretty ordinary. The intake tract exits the turbo and is about 19 kms long as it meanders down to the base of the intercooler, predominantly to prevent ice building on the base of the intercooler and radiator, in sweden, in winter.

        As we are not in sweden, some gains in response are made going to hard pipes rather than the factory rubber / plastic and reversing the flow, ie blow into top of the intercooler.

        Bolt in ebay coolers are available for about $200 though and several forum members think they are ok, others say get the swedish kits, but they are $1500. Also it's sandwiched between the a/c and radiator, it looks pretty shitful to try and properly front mount one.
        Originally posted by thebluerx7
        The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

        Comment


          You could see if LV XR5 can be picked up from a forum from someone who did an upgrade?
          2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
          2007 KTM 250 SX

          Originally posted by Monza
          I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

          Comment


            bloke on i roll group on fb is aelling xr5 wheels for 300 in shitney.
            I am junkie for swedish high quality shitboxes. my latest fix is this...
            WANTED: HOLDEN CALIBRA - WHAT YA GOT?
            robslothyoung - follow me on insta.

            Comment


              Originally posted by Sloth View Post
              bloke on i roll group on fb is aelling xr5 wheels for 300 in shitney.
              Thanks sloth, same centre bore size? Will go have a look.

              Originally posted by Greg Rust View Post
              You could see if LV XR5 can be picked up from a forum from someone who did an upgrade?
              I had a brief look at those and I don't think it will fit, the front end of these is pretty shitful for space, I had the fabricator from the hoffs workshop have a look and we reckoned just to go with the ebay bolt ons as it just looks too hard vs return. I need to pull the front apart and have a better look. Maybe whilst up on the hoist for suspension.
              Originally posted by thebluerx7
              The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

              Comment


                I am sure that P80 centre bore is bigger than P1 centre bore. Also lower offset. Can be hard to find, but I reckon Pegasus as the best wheels on these rigs!

                Comment



                  warning wall of an amazing resource on Volvo 850r / t5 / v70 and v70rs text inbound from here:

                  http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=10961

                  This is the latest rendition of my intro to tuning these cars that I first wrote some years ago on VS and cross-posted over here. Since then a few things have been taken out and added, and changed.

                  Since it seems multiple times every day, we have people asking the same questions again and again ("What mod should I do first?" "Can my car be fast?" "What's the best bang for the buck?" "Why is the sky blue?" "Has anyone modified 850 turbos?" etc), I am going to attempt to lay things out clearly for some of the noobs. This will focus on 850 turbos primarily, as that is where the majority of my experience is. There will be notes and information about other cars though as well...

                  It is my hope that this post in conjunction with the pinned FAQ thread will be able to guide people to the answers to some of the more repetitive questions relatively easily.

                  I'll break it down as follows:

                  I. Engine
                  A. Limitations of the stock turbo
                  B. Upgrading the turbo and a new set of limitations

                  II. Transmission
                  A. Limitations of the stock auto transmission, and options for improving it
                  B. The better M56H manual, and possibilities it opens up

                  III. Miscellaneous Considerations


                  I. Engine

                  Overview: The engines in these cars (850 turbos, T5's, T5-R's, and R's, as well as all 70-series T5's [may mention early V70R's], all of which will be referred to as the HPT turbo cars as they are mechanically very similar) are 2.3 liter 20 valve DOHC designs, with a stock turbocharger and settings as follows:

                  All HPT 850's received TD04HL-15G turbos, with stock boost for turbo and T5 models set at 9.6 psi, and T5-R and R models at 10.5 psi (stock hp are 222 and 240, respectively). (The European 850R received a 16T turbo)

                  All HPT 70-series cars received 16T turbos (with the exception of the V70R's, which received 18T's in 98 and 99, and 19T's in 2000). Not sure on stock boost setting, I'd assume it's around 10 for the T5's and probably 12.5 or so for the R's.

                  Stock airbox design is excellent, pulling cold air from behind the grille, and can be easily modified to be even better. Stock exhaust has nice bends, but relatively small (~2.25") piping and very restrictive cat and muffler.

                  That's the starting point info. The overview of the engines.

                  With these cars, there are basically two relatively easily attained levels of tuning. The first is that in which the stock 15G turbo is the major limiting factor in increasing performance, with a ceiling around ~270-300bhp. The other level is one in which the turbo is upgraded, and performance is limited mainly by the transmission and later, the connecting rods.


                  A. The HPT cars with their stock 15G turbo reach their limitations fairly quickly. A reprogrammed ECU, coupled with good 2.5"-3" full exhaust, will generally get you to the limits of the 15G's efficiency. The ECU will increase fuel and boost maps to about 15-16 psi maximum boost. For a little more performance, you can add a boost controller (don't think you can on the ME7 1999+ cars) to decrease spool-up time and increase the boost an extra pound or two (beyond that isn't too useful).

                  Essentially though, at this point, if your car was in good tune to begin with, you will be in the area of as high as you'll get with this car, barring band-aid add-ons like nitrous and water/alcohol injection. You should be running mid-low 14s with anywhere from 270-300 horsepower at the crank. Extracting more power with the stock turbo is becoming difficult, because at higher RPMs, the turbine side limits exhaust flow. (though if you insist, you can gain some power by water/alcohol injection and/or nitrous oxide)


                  B. If you choose to upgrade the turbo (upgraded compressor wheel for the 15G, or using 16T, 18T, or 19T turbos are easiest), then you will potentially be able to yield significant gains in power beyond 17-18 psi. The 15G isn't too efficient even at 16 psi, so even at the same boost levels, you will feel a gain because the air won't be so superheated. However, you won't be able to increase the boost as high on this turbo as with the 15G, because it's actually flowing enough air at those higher boost levels that you'll be needing more fuel in order to make more power (*Bill at Adrenaline Racing recommends upgrading ECU map at any level above 16 psi when using a 19T).
                  This is the seperating factor for this level, because fuel mods apart from the pre-made performance chips are a consideration. Larger injectors and a rising-rate fuel pressure regulator are options, as well as the possibility of a custom ECU program. Best case scenario would be a custom ECU program used in conjuction with larger injectors.
                  *Since the time of writing this, it is easier to obtain ECU tuning for higher levels of modification from companies like RICA and IPD/TME, among others. That would be the route I would recommend. Civinco has also proven to be a viable option, depending on the user.

                  The difference in turbine housings:
                  There are 3 turbine housing designs (with two variations having been seen internally in the angle-outlet housing, but we will ignore that for now!). Conical outlet flange (94-95 850 turbo, 95 850 T5-R), straight outlet flange (96-97 850 R, T5 and GLT, 98 model S70 R, T5, And GLT), and angled outlet flange (All cars 99+ excluding the newer cars with KKK turbos). User jonsayre has contributed a photograph of all three side-by-side. http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...howtopic=92545


                  As you can see, the difference is in outlet size. This has an effect on performance, and all three housings are interchangeable and can be placed on any TD04HL turbo (13G, 13T, 15G, 16T, 18T, 19T, sorry if I forgot anyone!) by removing the center band clamp. Outlet sizes are <2.5" for the conical, >2.5" for the straight, and ~3" for the angled outlet. They also come with varying wastegate actuators, with the angle-outlet turbos receiving the 300/70 actuator with the strongest spring (straight outlet 16T was 215/60, conical 15G was 150/30, others may vary).

                  Beyond the TD04HL Volvo turbos, there are a few more options. The first is the Hahn Racecraft TD05H series of turbos, which are Mitsubishi TD05H turbochargers with a Hahn Racecraft turbine housing which gives it the standard T3 inlet flange. This is the same flange Volvo uses, but they use a raised lip on the exhaust manifold and recess in the turbine housing to make a mechanical gasket-less seal. This lip on the manifold must be machined down by a mill in order to use one of these turbos. There are 16G, Big 16G, and 20G compressors available in this series of turbo, and there are a handful of members using these turbos with great success.

                  In addition to the Hahn 16G/20G turbos, it is possible to use most Garrett T3-flanged turbos. This opens you up to a whole new world of sizing possibilities. It seems that the older T04B and T04E compressors (which are used in T3/T04B and T3/T04E hybrids) are being replaced by more modern GT-series ball-bearing turbos, although the 50 trim T04E is still an outstanding compressor and very versatile for power levels from 300 whp to 400 whp. The GT-series of turbos from Garrett provide a number of options, I would start with the GT2871R as a great turbo to use with the stock transmission and bottom end. This turbo will comfortably make 270-320 whp on our engines I would say. The next step is a GT3071R, and the GT3076R... These are great options for mildly built bottom ends using manual transmissions or upgraded automatic transmissions. The GT35R is an excellent turbo, but unless you are aiming for over 450 whp I would not say it is necessary. It is also possible to use some Holset turbos. When using big turbos like these, you may run into firewall clearance or rear transmission mount clearance issues. Don't be surprised...

                  Internals
                  The engine's internals are reportedly good to around 400 horsepower with proper air/fuel tuning. However, many premature failures of connecting rods have happened due to high boost levels at low RPMs, or poor tuning in general. With boost coming on gradually however, 320-340 wheel horsepower or possibly slightly more should be attainable if done carefully. The problem is how well the ECU can respond to and correct detonation events. At higher, less stable boost levels with stock boost control and oddly proportioned turbos (like the 19T), it is difficult for Motronic's algorithms to effectively combat these problems before permanent engine damage has occurred. There is also a much much thinner margin for error and bad gas and such at the highest power levels.

                  There are now affordable H-beam rods available from either Sten Parner (bad because of exchange rate now), or R-Sport International, among a few other companies. These rods will allow you to do a mild rebuild of the engine and take out the weakest link in the bottom end. This will allow you to make 350-400+ whp safely and reliably with proper tuning.

                  Intercooler
                  The stock intercooler setup is very good, utilizing all black-painted aluminum piping, and an OK bottom-to-top intercooler. In my experience, the abundant rubber elbows used in this system have proven very weak under high levels of boost, and are costly to replace.... I would recommend getting a kit of replacement elbows in silicon. Drop-in upgraded intercoolers are available, though I don't know at what point they become a serious consideration. (there are also "reverse-flow intercooler setups available that reduce the distance of the intercooler pipes to improve throttle response, but it's my belief that the benefit of added cooling of the longer plumbing helps cooling enough to make the reverse intercooler piping (~$250) not quite worthwhile.) There is more discussion and more rambling on my part in the FAQ thread regarding intercooler upgrades.

                  Stock ignition and fuel systems are very good as well, basic plug, wire, coil upgrades will probably yield some small gains, especially at higher output, and the fuel system is easy to upgrade. The first upgrade to consider in the fuel system would be the injectors, which stock are 315cc/min as I recall. A general rule of thumb on our engines with stock fuel pressure is that for each cc/min of injector size, you can achieve about 1 bhp. So with 315cc/min injectors you can achieve about 315 bhp, or 260-280 whp. There are Bosch-made Volvo injectors which are a direct replacement for the 850's stock orange top injectors. The 70-series T5 cars in 1998 received white injectors which flow roughly 350cc/min. In 1999, all 70 series T5 cars received blue 395cc injectors, which were original equipment on those models for quite a few years. In 2000, the V70R AWD received green 468cc/min injectors, which resurfaced again in 2004 when the R AWD V70 and S60 were introduced. A quick and easy way to up effective injector flow is to put in a Dodge 4-bar fuel pressure regulator from a 2.2 liter turbo Dodge (from the late 80s, early 90s). Which gives an increase in flow over our 3 bar.

                  Apart from these injectors, any high impedance Bosch injector can be used in the stock rail, but accompanying tuning ought to be done to ensure the car will run efficiently with these injectors. It is possible to run larger injectors with no tuning provisions for them, but it will be far from an ideal setup and mileage will suffer.

                  In addition to upgrading the injectors, the stock fuel pump will eventually run out of steam. I am not totally sure of where this occurs, but believe it is somewhere shy of 400 bhp. There is a very easy and inexpensive upgrade available though, the standard Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump. (The part number is GSS 342 and an installation guide can be found in the FAQ thread)


                  II. Transmission

                  A.
                  The stock automatic transmission doesn't seem to like seeing power above 300bhp. However, some people have been running higher amounts just by doing simple things. There are two very easy and very significant things to do that will help the life of your transmission great amounts. One is flushing your fluid (also upgrading to better fluid helps), and the other is the installation of a transmission fluid cooler. With these two simple things, these transmissions (in good shape) have held well over 300 horsepower, though they are still far weaker than their manual counterparts. You will find by checking your transmission fluid regularly after modifying your car greatly, the condition of the fluid deteriorates pretty rapidly. Flush the fluid again as soon as its condition has deteriorated.

                  B. There are to my knowledge two manual gearboxes for the FWD cars, the M56 (available in H and L versions) and the M59. Some people have gotten the M66 from the S60R to work in these cars, but I will focus on the 850's offerings. The M56 has an open differential, but is supposedly stronger than the M59. The M59 however, was used in Europe in the R's, and came with a high power-handling clutch and a limited slip differential. The M56H and L differ only by gear ratios, both being very strong transmissions. When using the Volvo manual transmissions, the R clutch kit should be capable of handling most builds regardless of driving style, until you start approaching the 350-400 whp level. In my car with 19T turbo, stock injectors and intercooler, and Upsolute tuning, I ran 13.31 at 107.4 mph, this with the M56H transmission and R clutch.


                  III.

                  There are other things to consider when tuning these cars. One is that they can run fairly well with very worn components, and in some cases do well even with fairly damaged components. For this reason, many of these cars out there today are in very poor shape mechanically, though it is not readily apparent (most people don't notice something is wrong with them, and if they do, if it's not affecting the car's performance they will generally overlook it). Often times, people will do certain modifications and not yield the gains they are expecting. This is most often due to these small problems that had been overlooked by previous owners and such.
                  Stage 0 is unbelievably important in these cars. Before modding, replace the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs wires, spark plugs, fuel filter, all vacuum lines, test compression, look for oil leaks, and generally make sure the car is up to spec. Buy gauges. Generic boost and A/F ratio gauges are fairly cheap and very useful in tuning these cars. This is also a good chance to do minor upgrades like better air filter, exhaust, and minor ignition components. Once you're confident your car is running as it should, go ahead with the major modifications, you will save yourself a lot of headaches and troubleshooting (not that there won't be any involved!). Most people don't acknowledge the increased wear/load placed on basic components when you increase engine output by ~50%. Refer to the FAQ thread for more on Stage 0.

                  Another important consideration to make before sinking lots of money into one of these cars is that it will never be a drag racer. With fat (for these cars, 225 is considered pretty fat) street tires on 16-17" rims, traction will be a huge problem, even around the 300 horsepower level.
                  Larger tire sizes would require smaller offsets or spacers, accompanied probably by fender-rolling. The wheel wells in these cars are very snug. Drag radials are but a small help, and slicks are far from reasonable for a daily-driven car.
                  Overtaking cars on highways, and racing from a roll will be on par with mildly modded f-body V8's, and other extremely fast cars, but you'll find that from a stop, you will be at a severe handicap..

                  The setup I would recommend to most users: TD04HL-18T turbocharger, IPD intercooler upgrade, SAMCO silicon boost hoses, 3" exhaust system, 350cc or larger injectors with custom ECU programming from a reputable tuner, and either manual transmission swap or automatic with aftermarket cooler and nice fresh fluid. This will produce an extremely quick car in the 18-21 psi range, and will be relatively reliable as it utilizes all Volvo factory parts and design considerations while not exceeding the safe limitations for the stock block.

                  Some vendors for the chips (I'd recommend custom exhaust, and trying to find injectors independently), and turbos, plus other minor performance parts...

                  Vendors
                  - http://www.ipdusa.com - the most reputable Volvo performance parts place in America, they are a distributor for TME, and top-notch, if a little expensive.

                  - http://www.viva-performance.com - George is a US distributor of RICA ECUs and a number of other parts for these cars.

                  - http://www.samsteffansson.se/samindex.html - SAM Steffanson, very extensive catalog of parts although located in Sweden.

                  - http://www.eurosporttuning.com - If you refer Volvospeed, Frank will be very helpful here, and there is also a small discount. They are the US distributor for the Swedish tuning company SAM Steffanson.

                  - http://www.upsolute.com/ - A more budget-minded chip tuning company.

                  - http://www.speedtuningusa.com - Another budget-minded company.

                  - http://www.stenparnermotor.se - A reasonably-priced very reputable engine builder and parts supplier in Sweden. He speaks English well so e-mail is a good way of contacting him if you would like to order parts from him.

                  - http://www.r-sportinternational.com/ - An up and coming Volvo tuning company, they are able to provide H-beam connecting rods at an affordable price as well as other parts.

                  - http://www.kaplhenke.com/ - Another up and coming company, specializing mainly in higher end suspension parts.

                  - http://www.atpturbo.com - These guys are a generic turbo dealership, with a ton of offerings from Garrett and I believe a couple of other manufacturers, as well as vital things like fittings and silicone couplers, mandrel U-bends, etc. This is where to go if you are upgrading beyond the TD04HL series of turbos or are fabricating your own exhaust or front-mount intercooler kit.

                  - Board member Joseph Essaye (JHEIII874T5M) is a dealer of Samco Hoses and a number of other parts (Limited-slip differentials, Walbro pumps, etc) and is excellent to deal with.

                  - Board member Mike (thelostartof) is an excellent connection on OEM parts, performance exhausts (When he is making them ), and generally very helpful in tracking down parts when it is crunch time.

                  - Board member 300+ T5R 855 (CJ) could be known for his attention to detail and absolute demand for perfection. He distributes and manufactures various useful and in-demand parts for these Volvos. http://www.yother.com/ is his website.

                  These should be enough links to get you started, but if you really want to shop around please browse the pinned FAQ thread, as it is chock full of meaningful links and other data which has been omitted here.

                  If there are any questions unanswered here, feel free to PM me, or search the forums.

                  Kind of unorganized, may work on that in the future... Feel free to add/comment... I may revise/reorganize at a later date. For now that's enough of my company's time wasted on this thing !
                  Originally posted by thebluerx7
                  The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

                  Comment


                    So I got impatient waiting for my package from ipd in the USA to arrive and decided to install the boost guage for the a70 in this as well as the bleed valve.

                    These have a nifty little grommet in the firewall which allows you to cut off a nipple and slide your wire / line or whatever through whilst keeping a barrier. There's one on the engine side of the firewall.

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                    And one under the dash, which you access by removing the lower kick panel with a torx head driver. Or in this instance cut the zip ties holding it .

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ID:	7254046 once located pull it off then cut a nipple and locate the boost reference line. I just used 5mm pneumatic vacuum line.


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                    Feed it up, and find that there is a heap of space next to the dash making this section super simple.

                    Now into the engine bay and we need to remove this cover held by 1 torx screw.

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                    Underneath is a boost reference tree, which I found after having a previous failure. I picked this line off the intake manifold.

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                    Which runs through to the charcoal canister and references back to the tcv (turbo control valve) and I think the brake master also.

                    Once hooked up I had vacuum but not positive manifold pressure and after asking the Volvo gurus I started tracing all the vacuum lines and .

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                    That's not ideal, enhance...

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                    Fuck.

                    Easy fix though. I then moved the boost reference onto this tree
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                    And also removed the screw blocked line 🙈

                    Quick test drive and fuck me. I don't know why yet,maybe some limp mode, but that split vacuum line must have been causing a boost limit of some kind. We have 10psi now and it fair gets along. Happy days. Next up is bleed valve.
                    Attached Files
                    Originally posted by thebluerx7
                    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

                    Comment


                      Goodies delivery.

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                      Now to get the British junk out the way so I can use the hoist.

                      But first unboxing

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                      Originally posted by thebluerx7
                      The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

                      Comment


                        Guy on Facebook is looking to part out his V70r. https://www.facebook.com/groups/IRol...93854214045606

                        Comment


                          I'm reading this and starting to have dirty thoughts about my V50 Wagz, but that's gonna have to wait as I've just been hit with a leaking lower rad hose and a steering lock solenoid fail on me (the dreaded no start lock fail), so there goes $2k I thought these Volvos were reliable
                          Envy is Ignorance, Imitation is Suicide - Ralph Waldo Emerson

                          Originally Posted by Stang:
                          particularly when your body is functioning like a 1970s Alfa made by drunken chimpanzees on a Friday afternoon

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by JayTHEFordman View Post
                            I'm reading this and starting to have dirty thoughts about my V50 Wagz, but that's gonna have to wait as I've just been hit with a leaking lower rad hose and a steering lock solenoid fail on me (the dreaded no start lock fail), so there goes $2k I thought these Volvos were reliable
                            Ah fuck. Yeah there's some bits that were Ford in cheapness and Scandinavian in design.

                            Originally posted by Luke352 View Post
                            Guy on Facebook is looking to part out his V70r. https://www.facebook.com/groups/IRol...93854214045606
                            That looks pretty good actually pending what you'd get it for.

                            So these have a tendency to break the button on the gear selector which is annoying every time you move the selector and can cause the car to not go in or out of park.

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                            it's all a pretty easy fix, with a kit available which is a spring and new button (as the mounts often crack). Mine was spring related from the feel. I bought mine from ipd in the USA, I think it was about $7 us.

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                            So you grip with both hands and pull, it releases really easily and comes off. I had the ignition on and moved the selector to L for a better angle.

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                            Then you can push this rod down and lock it back in park

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                            using a screwdriver or makeshift rod, push up the spring seat inside the knob and the button comes out proud.

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                            Grab it with both thumbs and use medium pressure and it will cantilever out from the top.

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                            Then you'll be met with this

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                            Note the spring, and in particular the orientation as this will get replaced. First push the rod the spring is seated on to the right, releasing the spring. It's still slightly captive so I used pliers to manoeuvre it out.

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                            Now push the top rod out of the now old button and insert it in the new one. Put the spring back in and push the rod back into place to hold it captive. With a screwdriver or similar pry the spring forward to locate it into a small half square recess in the button.

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                            Re seat the button using the bottom rod. You may need to push it laterally to get it to seat properly. Now remove the spring support and gently push the top of the button back in until the top rod engages also. This should go in firmly but without binding.

                            Use your screwdriver to activate the button and it should shoot the screwdriver out when pushing the button if it's all set up properly.

                            To reinstall, you need to do it in 2 stages. First this article ring at the top of the leather gearbox needs to be pushed up and clipped to the bottom of the gear stick.

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                            Once the gearbox is attached simply give it a solid push on and that's it. Quite a fiddly but simple fix and feels so good now, just a small annoyance which is now sorted.
                            Originally posted by thebluerx7
                            The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

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                              Originally posted by I'm DJ! View Post

                              Ah fuck. Yeah there's some bits that were Ford in cheapness and Scandinavian in design.
                              Pretty much it would seem
                              Envy is Ignorance, Imitation is Suicide - Ralph Waldo Emerson

                              Originally Posted by Stang:
                              particularly when your body is functioning like a 1970s Alfa made by drunken chimpanzees on a Friday afternoon

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                                Another maintenance item completed. This sits in the engine bay fuse box , its the big red one at the back and controls the fuel pump on off and fuel pressure so 4 easy torx bolts open it up and they have a nifty diagram showing which way to orientate it. (Because I didn't check when I pulled the old one out).

                                This is the final part of my fuel system that the interwebs say could have been causing the randomn idling, stuttering and stalling. So much so that most of the volvo forums keep a new one in their gloveboxes. Just to recap it has

                                New fuel pump

                                New fuel filter and now

                                New fuel pump relay.

                                It was stalling which prompted me to swap it out and all good so far.

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                                Originally posted by thebluerx7
                                The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

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