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Toyota Cressida MX73 GL-i

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    Too close to being done to sell.

    Even when I do eventually sell it I can juat image the butthurt over the price I will want for it.

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      I got my 2 step to work thru the solid state relay, but bump doesn't want to work. It definitely triggers as you see the voltage drop to zero and tried all the hz and time settings. I think it's linked to the drive shaft rpm parameter, as I don't have one. Any ideas?

      My 2 step boost only goes to gate pressure, but that's something linked with race timer and need to play to get that to work. Probably thru an rpm row of figures or playing around with duty cycle at 0s

      Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
      Originally posted by 50RTD
      Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

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        Strange one, which ecu input are you using for it? Is it a proper moment switch and an on off switch you're using? I connected mine as per screenshot and grounded it to the chassis and not the ecu.

        Probably best to ask Dale or call haltech to be honest.

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          Yeah it's grounded to the chassis.

          Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
          Originally posted by 50RTD
          Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

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            Thought this would be a good idea while the car is still on the jack stands.





            Should be on the ground tomorrow, then back in the air to redo stuff that sits too low.

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              How low is the exhaust?
              I own a two and a half litre Commodore

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                I hope those clamps aren't the lowest part of the car...

                Looks pretty nice though!
                Norbie!

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                  Originally posted by ALLMTR View Post
                  How low is the exhaust?
                  > 101.6mm

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                    This is booked in for a tune next month.

                    I am getting a little nervous about it thinking what's going to break on the dyno (diff) but I guess there isn't much more I can really do until it's on there.

                    About the only thing left to do is find the a/c request wire from behind the dash so I can input it to the haltech, tidy up around the shifter console area and put a bit of a heat shield around the brake boost / master cylinder.

                    I keep second guessing myself with how I have set the timing but it seems to be idling nicely now around the mid 14:1 AFR and seems ok with a few stabs of the throttle. Nothing seems to be leaking from it either which is a good sign.

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                      Diff will be fine on the dyno.


                      You'll brake it on the street once it's been tuned though

                      Sent from my TA-1004 using Tapatalk

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                        This lol.

                        Good luck with it all!
                        BF XR6T - TE Sedan - 75 TX Coupe - Atlas SS - VF SS Redline

                        - PSN: rotacoupe

                        This is obviously assuming all your AUX outputs are doing something. Ie idle control, and the other does water spray, and the other updates your Instagram automatically etc.

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                          I was told for many years that my diff wouldn't live behind a boosted 2JZ. I broke lots of drivetrain bits but the diff was fine. I reckon you'll be fine.
                          Norbie!

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                            Iíve never seen or heard of a car breaking a diff on the dyno. There is no shock to break it
                            I own a two and a half litre Commodore

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                              Originally posted by ALLMTR View Post
                              Iíve never seen or heard of a car breaking a diff on the dyno. There is no shock to break it
                              That's exactly what tuner said.

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                                who is tuning it?

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