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Toyota Cressida MX73 GL-i

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    #31
    sorry but i don't see the obstacle?

    Can you source an OEM bellhousing?

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      #32
      Yes, I have one already.

      Will need to be sent away so the adaptor plate can be drilled to suit the bellhousing bolt pattern on the oil pump side (not engine side)

      Brain failure before, starter motor points backwards and not forward so shouldn't foul against the engine mount.

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        #33
        I'm on the blip between gear changes in a 4 rotor will be awesome, so I'm on the manual side
        Originally posted by thebluerx7
        The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

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          #34
          Originally posted by tim510 View Post
          Its an easy decision.

          Do you want to go fast at the track or roll racing? (Automatic)

          or

          Do you want to go slow at the track with big MPH and get smoked by cars with 50% the power? (Manual)
          I prefer to think of it like this - do you want to have a cool car or do you want to have an auto? :D

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            #35
            just do a cut n shut bellhousing to your desired gearbox?

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              #36
              Originally posted by [RX3] View Post
              Yes, I have one already.

              Will need to be sent away so the adaptor plate can be drilled to suit the bellhousing bolt pattern on the oil pump side (not engine side)

              Brain failure before, starter motor points backwards and not forward so shouldn't foul against the engine mount.
              None of that is hard. A transmission builder will be able to make an adaption ring between your bell housing and transmission of choice. Then its a case of getting the torque converter to flex plate distance correct (ensuring the T/C is fully engaged). You are typically better off using the OEM bell/flex/starter combination. Makes life way easier.

              I've adapted 2 non-standard autos and I'm about to get a 3rd done. its not hard. Just because a kit doesn't exist doesn't make it impossible.

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                #37
                Decided on a TR6060.

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                  #38
                  Aww yiss

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by [RX3] View Post
                    Decided on a TR6060.
                    Good choice, but say goodbye to the trans tunnel :D

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                      #40
                      Why say that. Box itself isn't big, it's big with a ls bellhousing

                      Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
                      Originally posted by 50RTD
                      Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

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                        #41
                        If it's anything like the V160, it will be way too tall and/or fat at the back of the box, where the MA61/MX73 tunnel starts to narrow. You can see the difference here, W58 on the right (fits in tunnel) and V160 on the left (does not fit):




                        Hopefully you won't have to butcher your tunnel quite as much as I had to, but I've never seen a TR6060 up close so who knows.
                        Norbie!

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                          #42
                          So glad this is getting a manual now!

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                            #43
                            Update time!

                            I was able to get a solid amount of work done to the car with 3 weeks off work.



                            5M out and gave the engine bay a quick clean while I was at it.



                            When I picked the 20B up I had a 3 2j motors to collect.

                            Two of these were sold off and I decided to keep one. I had a good think about the 3 rotor and soon passed on the idea - so that now lives underneath the work bench for maybe another project down the track. It should be pretty easy to assume what happened next. I wasn't too sure of the exact condition of the spare 2j motor. When I was pulling the ignition coils from the plugs for a compression test I noticed a little bit of water in the cylinder 1 spark plug hole and the plugs were only finger tight. My fear was that water might have got into the bore of the motor. I decided to get it running, so I changed the spark plugs and bought some oil for it.



                            It has a good misfire on it and it did a decent backfire through the intake (didn't film that part). Nothing a bit of boost wont fix. So, the picture prior to the video had the MX83 engine cross member installed. I bought a pair of engine mounts from another forum member. I sold the stock turbos and the 2j bolted straight in with plenty of room







                            I bought a 4lb hammer from bunnings and gave the transmission tunnel a good ding, then was able to bolt up a turbo 400. The transmission bolts are really easy to get to which helps a lot and it's easy to remove the transmission with the engine still in the bay. I made a little transmission mount for it too and it all seems to sit good for now.





                            The exhaust manifold and turbo from the rage quit 2j s14 fitted nicely too. I need to give the outer side of the engine by a clean too.





                            I made a 4" dumb pipe over the last couple of days. It's pretty tight but seems to fit well enough. It was a stuff around because of the EGT probes that would hit against the dump but if I moved it closer towards the booster then there would be very little space for the wastegate. I spent a whole day playing around with 2 90 degree bends that I cut to make the dump. I might need to change on little thing at the end of it.







                            Now that the dump was mostly done it was time to move onto the gate. This was about as good as I could get it. It was really really tricky to weld it to the 90 degree bend coming from the merge collector. Kyle was happy for me to tack it and send it to him for welding (awesome service from 6boost - I wish he still posted here) but thought I would have a go. Hopefully it's okay, I didn't get any porosity while I was welding it which was a big help.





                            Next was to make sure everything fitted with the dump and gate in place.









                            So I think the hardest bit is now done. I just need to weld a O2 sensor bung to the dump and a vband flange on the end. The gate will run between the chassis rail and steering column, the dump between the steering column and the engine.

                            Also put a Hurst shifter in...





                            I don't really like it too much, I might look at buying a Precision Performance shifter from the USA.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Much better

                              I'm getting a PP shifter too
                              I own a two and a half litre Commodore

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Perfect as always. Looks great.
                                Originally posted by thebluerx7
                                The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

                                Comment

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