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‘01 Pearl IS300 2JZ-GTE… you get the idea

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    Looks good! I weep for those hunting oil leaks though lol


      Originally posted by Ribfeast View Post
      Looks good! I weep for those hunting oil leaks though lol
      I don't install oil leaks mate. <---- Will come back to this in the future when weeping.

      Tackled the head. Marked all the shimmed buckets and placed them in egg cartons, which works very well I might add. I ended up marking the cartons intake/exhaust and 1-12 as the marking pen just doesn't stay on the shims (didn't clean them much). Then got a razor and scraped clean the mating face of the head, took a while but managed to not make any marks on it.

      Then got distracted by the throttle body coolant return into the head. Most people just block these off with a rubber bung which inevitably fails or hose with a bolt in it which looks like dogsballs. Fire maker and multi grips made quick work getting it out.

      Drilled and tapped to 1/8 NPT, grub screw with some sort of Loctite from the cupboard and she's ready to... not leak? Will weld the rear cooling line(s) closed which feeds turbo #2 and I think something else but can't remember right now. Will revisit when we get there.

      Marked all the valves with some white paint and got to work removing them. Got myself a second-hand valvemaster toyotool to remove the valve spring retainers. Not overly impressed with it to be honest. I can see it being somewhat useful doing this while the head is still on the block, and maybe still in the car. Even then I think a tool that bolts onto the top somewhere and compresses the retainer will be more controlled. I'll get myself a proper tool that supports the valve at the bottom and compresses the retainer at the top to drop the keepers in. Anyway, got them all out without losing too many keepers (rest assured, they were all accounted for eventually...) The valve stem seal pliers worked well after the 4th or 5th one when I figured out how to get them out without hulking out. Brute force and pulling straight up was not the right way, clamping it with the pliers and wiggling it in a circular motion for a few rotations works a treat. The seals being rock hard definitely contributes to the difficulty. And yes, probably spent more time arranging the things for the picture than what it took to get them out (not counting the time looking for keepers)

      Got the GSC valve stem seals, allegedly better than the OEM stuff, we will see.

      Got the BC0300 valve springs and titanium retainers. Few comparison shots on the difference between it and OEM.

      Which brings me to a point where I need to decide what to do now.

      Option 1, clean everything and reassemble with stock cams and shimmed buckets. Quick, easy, no more dollhairs required, was the original plan.
      Option 2, get some BC 272 VVTi cams, reinstall everything with shimmed buckets, measure clearances and order shimless buckets, reassemble everything with new cams and shimless buckets. Confirm clearance. Cost a bit more, take more time, but will save hair being pulled out when deciding to do it after engine is wrapped with car.
      Option 3, BC272, measure stuff, buy all one size shimless buckets, give everything to head shop to clean, clearance and reassemble. Costs most, easy, hope for the best.

      I've started measuring the shimmed buckets, which may give you an idea of which way I'm leaning.

      Would also get billet timing belt tensioner due to increased valvetrain load from bigger cams & stiffer springs for peace of mind.

      Thoughts? Not so sure on the head shop doing clearance without head being clamped down...
      Last edited by bboy; 17-09-19, 09:40 AM. Reason: Fix Pics


        Definitely chuck some cams in whichever way.

        '90 2jz-gte 929
        '02 twin-locked TD42 GU Patrol


          Options 3.


            Option 3 for sure, buy everything and give it to someone else to do. It's what I would do, as much as I like learning how to do stuff, sometimes it's just easier for others to do things as they have the right tools to do it.

            Regret not buying cams and springs in mine but I have a spare cylinder head that I will buy stuff for pending how my Cressida goes.


              Forums seem stable now, and my pics broken. Fixed the first and last post so far, using onedrive to link now (thanks Norbie)

              I ordered the cams and tensioner from Goleby’s, unfortunately stock was just out and new stuff was coming from the states. I was still tossing up whether to send the head in to get done or to do it myself. While waiting for the cams I decided to take the spring seats out and the rest of the stem seal rubber that got left behind. Then things kind of just snowballed from there…

              Then just a quick wash… Came out much better than I expected

              At this point I decided I’ll do it myself. Cleaned the chambers with a wire brush on the Dremel

              Saw someone use a nifty little oscillating valve lapping tool, got one on fleabay and put it to good use.

              Installed the new valve stem seals, then valve seats, springs, retainers and used a new valve spring compressor which worked 11ty times better than the toyotool.

              The cams and tensioner finally arrived and it was time to bolt the head back on. In preparation for this I got a new set of torque wrenches, 1/4”, 3/8” and the big 1/2”. For the head studs I got a single socket from SCA, 1/2” drive, deep multipoint 1/2” socket which needed just a bit of trimming…

              New head gasket on with some copper spray (only because head and block was not decked)

              With the head on, washers, studs and nuts installed with ARP lube everywhere I torqued it to the ARP spec in a few passes, loosened and retorqued a few times.

              Double checked the thickness of the shimmed buckets just in case, installed them all in their original spots and bolted the cams in.

              Next up, valve clearance...


                Farkin nice work!!


                  Nice work mate, did you get the head skimmed?


                    Thanks guys. Didn't get the head skimmed, cleaned it with razor blade and checked for flatness and she came up good. Block also got a razor blade clean and the oil stone treatment as I learnt from Al, checked flatness and was good. I used the copper spray as a just in case measure because the surfaces were not machined (ie perfect) We'll see how it goes.


                      With the cams installed, I pulled the feeler gauge apart and measured all the clearances.

                      Probably not surprising, clearances were pretty good and all within Toyota spec. The thought briefly crossed my mind to just send it as is.

                      Made a little spreadsheet with all the results to work out what shimless buckets I need to get close to the BC recommended specs. Was a little annoying that the intake clearance BC wants at 0.203 is right in the middle of the Toyota spec (0.15-0.25), but the exhaust clearance BC wants at 0.254 is right on the minimum Toyota spec (0.25-0.35)... But some googling revealed other guys having the same question and that BC confirmed they want the tighter exhaust clearance.

                      A goal seek, vlookup & pivot table gave me a parts list to order. Toyota dealership wanted silly money for the buckets, Amayama had a long lead time, so Partsouq got the order and I had the parts before the next weekend!

                      Camshafts back out, shimmed buckets back into the egg cartons, spreadhseet printed and parts cleaned ready for assembly.

                      The shimless buckets have their size printed on the inside which is quite handy, and the micrometer agrees with it.

                      Installed all the buckets in their respective holes with generous amounts of sticky stuff

                      Installed the cams and measured the clearances again. They didn’t come out too bad, in a perfect world I would replace about 4 of them but I think this is good enough. In black and white units they look more consistent haha

                      With that over the line, I glued the end caps on and installed the cam seals and timing back cover thingy.


                        That's looking great!

                        Originally posted by bboy View Post
                        For the head studs I got a single socket from SCA, 1/2” drive, deep multipoint 1/2” socket which needed just a bit of trimming…

                        Haha I bought the exact same socket when I did mine. No fancy lathe in my workshop though, I had to modify/butcher mine on the bench grinder!


                          awesome work on the cylinder head.

                          partsouq are amazing to deal with.


                            Originally posted by Norbie View Post
                            Haha I bought the exact same socket when I did mine. No fancy lathe in my workshop though, I had to modify/butcher mine on the bench grinder!
                            Haha I have been part of some late night socket butchering back in the day to get stuff done

                            Originally posted by RX3 View Post
                            awesome work on the cylinder head.
                            Thanks man

                            Got a Garrett GTX3584RS, 6boost manifold with EGT ports, 50mm Turbosmart GenV wastegate, turbo beanie and got straight test fitting.

                            The wastegate port looks massive in these pics.

                            I wanted to use the factory exhaust studs and nuts because I think they’re better than what comes with the manifold, which is why I left them in the head the whole time. The 6boost mani is a quality unit, heavy and big. The big part is a bit of an issue. A few of the factory studs are too long and actually hit the pipes before the flange even seats. The factory nuts are also nice, proper big flange nuts with washer. This too is an issue on some as the nut flange/washer sits on the welds haha.

                            I conceded and will use the studs that came with the mani. But not the nuts. I have a pet hate for serrated flange nuts, they do not belong anywhere near cars. I don’t know why you can’t get the JIS non-serrated flange nuts readily here in Australia... The DIN ones are shit because you need to use 13/15/18mm spanners to work on your car

                            I got some copper plated JIS exhaust flange lock nuts from Clips and Fasteners in the states, along with a range of other JIS non-serrated flange nuts. From left to right, crappy serrated nuts that came with mani, OEM nuts, fully hectic nuts.

                            One EGT port is also bit close to the stud which is going to make life fun.


                              I threw the factory nuts in the lathe and reduced the washer/shoulder diameter so it cleared the runner welds on my 6boost


                                Originally posted by jasonp1977 View Post
                                I threw the factory nuts in the lathe and reduced the washer/shoulder diameter so it cleared the runner welds on my 6boost
                                There's that option, I didn't consider that. However, I needed an excuse to buy a bunch of other nuts and this was a good opportunity haha