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    Thanks guys. Yeah it's actually getting driven 5 days a week.

    Any time I ever bitch about it, or make a neutral comment, I'm still stoked that its running an engine I built as a noob 8 years ago, which has done probably >70k km's. And I know of a lot of "built" engines that have blown up in the mean time. I never meant for this to push big power but I'm honestly surprised it still works lol. I have lost track of km's on it though. Last record I had in the sil80 was the 60k mark, it probably did another 5k after that before I stripped the car. Unsure how many it's done in the Z, since the odometer has only recorded about 400km... It's never worked since I bought the car, but every time I resolve to swap my spare cluster over, it starts working for a day or two at a time.

    I actually took it through national park a month or so ago for the first time. I'm honestly not sure if I ever took it through there in the VG, but the current config is pretty sweet. It's a very EASY car to drive fast. It'd definitely benefit from a bucket seat if you wanted to lean on it, but at medium speeds its very casual. The old Sil80 would have been faster, but you'd be working a lot harder, and putting up with a lot more bumpsteer and general joltiness. Fairly satisfied.


      Didn't expect this on the front page of Imgur TBH.


        Same... my computer blew up, I was in shitposting withdrawal so decided to post it on there. Surprisingly less LS1 comments than I expected. Usual yank dumb comments tho. I thought it would be immediately downvoted by the autistic imgur patrols who only tolerate cat pictures and foot fetishes. Ah well. Mood boost after a shit week.


          Finally had some time to myself with no absolutely urgent chores to do, so decided to tackle an unfinished job from June last year.

          When the car was in pieces, I put together a Yaris coilpack conversion with bits from work. Kits I've bought in the past and everything i've seen online have something missing that I wasn't happy with. The yaris coils are thinner, and a few mm longer than SR coils, and have a different offset on the mounting bolt hole. They essentially fit, and I've just proven you can daily drive for 7 months without actually bolting them down, but I wanted to bolt them down and call it finished(ish). The most comprehensive 'kit' I've seen comes with 4 strips of steel with two holes drilled, so you can bolt the coil to the strip, and the strip to the rocker cover. Looks incredibly cheap and lazy.

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          Only plan was to pick up all of the original mounting points in a single bracket. Starting with CAD, and transferring to aluminium.

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          Cut out the bulk of it with a bent hacksaw, because you forgot to replace the last exploded disc on the grinder. Bonus points for only finding a new hacksaw blade when looking for the missing bastard file.

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          Next is to open up a few big holes with step drills, which mostly worked. Drilling out a c-shaped hole was tricker than I expected. Annoyingly the shape I wanted to follow didn't fit around my bench sander, and was down to my last belt on the power file... would have been fine to file off manually but somehow all of my files have gone walkabout (code for my 5 year old has played with them and I won't find them til I move house again). So most of the shaping was done with previously mentioned hacksaw, so nothing was pretty but once it stopped fouling on things I was happy for now.

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          The yaris coils have a large dust/water boot on them, which don't really have a home since the coils are too long for the SR rocker cover. The boot is actually a perfect snug fit over the opening in the SR rocker cover, and sit at the exact right height next to the coilpack mounting bosses.

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          Not in the original design brief, but since they now perfectly sit over the SR holes, and the new bracket acts as a keeper for them, the holes are effectively sealed again. Happy with that.

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          With a few more holes drilled, and edges neatened up, everything bolted together snugly in position. I think the next evolution would be to weld the cap head bolts in from underneath to use as studs. First cylinder coilpack got the finger sander treatment to try to allow it to fit straighter in the channel, but there's no room for a nut underneath the plate unless its on decent angle, but the wider plug on these coils means the plug fouls pretty quick as well.

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          Pretty happy that it actually panned out, part of me was expecting there to be unworkable fitment issues, since noone else bothers to make them. It's all back together now but I did trace the 'finished' plate so I can make a less agricultural plate next time I get a few spare minutes.

          Really should get stuck into sorting out the aircon next.


            looks good man


              Nice work. Will you run a coilpack cover over them? I haven’t seen one good looking aftermarket cover yet
              Originally posted by Rdyno
              It's fucking storytime with Rdyno cunt shut the fuck up and fuck off.


                Yep, always have! But its a badly painted standard S14 coilpack cover. There's no nice way to repaint them, and every aftermarket thing looks cheap. Big sads.


                  You’re right, they all look cheap as fuck.

                  I love the factory plastic silver one, except it says turbo on it which doesn’t suit my application. I’ve been contemplating having someone 3D print me a new one minus that writing bit.
                  Originally posted by Rdyno
                  It's fucking storytime with Rdyno cunt shut the fuck up and fuck off.


                    When I did 99% of the work on the car, it was in a shoebox garage only slightly larger than the car, a few sets of shelves full of shit and a work bench used to store things. Naturally this meant some jobs didn't have much trial fitment (not so much "measure once cut twice", but "one, two, that'll do") or access to work was limited enough that meant I had to choose between doing an instagram job, and a driving-the-car-this-year job. Both of these have contributed to some compromise that I've just been living with for the last 7 months or however long its been together for.

                    One of these was the front bar

                    I mean the indicators

                    I mean the coolers

                    Wait, its all of it.

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                    When I mounted the oil cooler, and crammed the R34 side mount in, the only checks I did were an eyeball check that there was vaguely line-of-sight for intercooler plumbing, and that the front bar fit over them. Check and check. However when the car was 'done', and I got the front bar back from paint, I realised I never tried mounting the bar with all of its associated brackets, so they naturally weren't compatible with my cooling solutions. And since my car had euro style bar light arrangement, I had to source separate plugs for the kouki corner lights. I threw the front bar on and bolted it as much as I could at 8pm and went for its test drive, and never stripped it back down after that. *N.B. I'm not a complete dumb cunt, just medium - the foglights worked as indicators in this setup. Not right, but not driving without some form of indicator...

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                    As seen from under the car, the it turns out there wasn't even enough clearance for the connectors for the corner lights anyway, and the corner of the cooler was rubbing on the front bar. Same deal with the oil cooler brackets. I never re-installed the front undertray because the bar never sat right, it still looks warped in the middle, but it wasn't supported properly at the outer edges, and was fouling on both coolers. So it was time to finally do something about this bad fitting side mount.

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                    Under the nose cone is a ridiculous amount of space. Not quite enough for a 600x300 ebay intercooler, but something OEM and sensibly sized should fit. I was looking for an Evo 6 intercooler, I once acquired one and admired its strange proportions, noting that it would be good for a conversion, but came down with a case of "I'm not going to modify another car again" so sold it for peanuts. In this search I was presented with an FG XR6 cooler, which looked like it could be even more gooder. The outlets are 2.5" which suited me, but come out at a weird 30?° angle, which wouldn't be a problem if I had a TIG and/or knew how to use one, but I don't. Anyway, commence the jigsaw.

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                    After much wailing and gnashing of teeth, two new pipes were added, and four old ones removed. The new piping path is shorter than with the side mount, and seems to fit better everywhere except for the coldside, which is still horrid, mainly because its covered in power steering and oil cooler lines.

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                    Essentially this just amounted to swapping the air intake and the intercooler around, but works up much neater. As dumb as the pod filter placement is it just clears the front bar. Phew.

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                    Once I had it mocked up, for some reason I decided I had time to go for a colour scheme. I think this was when I told nopics I would be joining them for lunch at my parents, once the car was done.

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                    I don't hate it, but having colour there shows how bad I am at cutting silicon hose with a rusty knife. I'll wait til I repaint everything black before fixing that though...

                    At this point nopics informed me they have left lunch, so pictures stopped as I hurried with the rest. Indicators are finally wired up correctly, oil cooler remounted higher, at a tighter angle. The front bar corner brackets are bolted on, which is almost a mandatory hoist job to be able to reach those gosh darned bolts. Center of the front bar still looks wonky, I would really love to fit the center mesh one day

                    Turbo flutter is even cheekier now (was already ridiculous), and in standard fashion, the hose clamp I left loose rudely made its presence known halfway through the test drive.


                      dat silicone.............. but hey its getting done and we know the pain of not being able to get time to work on our cars.


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                        In between making that coilpack bracket and redoing the intercooler, I had the opportunity for some more TOTALLY NORMAL CAR STANDARD MAINTENANCE. Yes, that's right, it was time to re-seal the sump. When I first dropped the motor in, I didn't notice the sump was on the cross member until my care factor was at the "Stab it with a screw driver" level. It was just the very corner of the sump, where the sheet metal is pressed up to make a return lip for extra strength. I tried to cut that corner off, but there was a very slow leak from that corner ever since. It totally wasn't because the blind holes in the upper sump were full of sealant from the last 8 sump changes this motor has had, so the bolts never bottomed out properly. Well maybe. Anyway.

                        The first time I changed sumps again, I used an engine crane to hold the engine, as the cross member needed to come out. Locky graciously provided a non-screwdriver stabbed sump, which I swapped over after cleaning everything up .In my haste, I forgot to clearance the sump and/or the cross member, so this one was in direct contact, and NVH went up through the roof. And still leaked from that corner. Either the sealant was displaced by supporting the weight of the motor, or I think more likely, as the lowest point of the motor, the oil still dripping out of the engine stopped it curing properly.

                        So Operation: SUMP 3 took place a few weeks ago. I picked up an engine support brace from work, which honestly felt like an impulse buy that was a bit of a waste of money, for a very specific tool that I'm never, ever going to use again.

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                        Much more comfortable! No engine crane to contort yourself around, it was worth the extra dosh. But still stupid, now I have to store a 2 meter long thingybob.

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                        For those not paying attention, the reason I have to do this every month is because the VG30 was a rear sump engine (Nissan's only one from this era), and the SR20 being front sump meant there was a clash. There are rear-sump kits available for MX-5 conversions, but they don't look like a well engineered thing at all. The other choices are dry sump, which was outside of my budget ($0), or cut a relief into the cross member. This last option means that the sump is essentially sitting inside the cross member, and so cannot be removed without taking off the cross member first.

                        So this attempt was quite successful. The sump was re-sealed without any leaks, and cutting a lot more material out of the cross member meant I finally had that clearance the motor deserved. The added NVH was gone - the original sounds and vibrations were still there, but you didn't feel it with your teeth any more. It's more so someone elses problem. The way a luxury GT car should always be.

                        It was during that job that I had a good look under the car and spotted my coolers rubbing through the front bar, that prompted the impromtpu FMIC install. The FMIC install resulted in only two hose-blowing-off situations, which was expected, as some of the joiners have absolutely no access to make sure they are on properly (see: trial and error for idiots method). However the car had a miss at very light throttle cruising, which is quite infuriating to live with. In trying to diagnose this, I noticed a hissing sound when the car was switched off, from the turbo. Some random coolant on the passenger side of the motor was traced back to the extra long coolant feed hose that was actually rubbing on the exhaust manifold.

                        So back under the knife it goes...

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                        The braided line kit I bought back in... 2013? was typical china copy well-thought-out products of the time. Meter long braided hose with straight fittings, to replace the just-long-enough OEM hard lines that used banjo bolts to make a compact-as-possible fluid transfer solution. This meant this piece of shit braided hose rubbed on everything in the engine bay, frayed instantly and would inflict puncture wounds on any passerby who dared to peek into the engine bay. I knew the coolant line was hard against the manifold, and for 8 odd years I thought to myself "I should do something about this before it becomes a problem".

                        For about 2 years in the sil80, there was a bubbling noise after shut down that I thought might be head gasket related, which I could only explain to an event whilst running the motor in, 60,000+km ago. After 800km, with my brother-in-law in the car, I gave it a boot full. No boost gauge, Kinugawa turbo with a (unknown to me) non functioning waste gate actuator. So the motor probably hit 40 psi boost, and blew out a welch plug. Should be a few red flags to smart people, but I just replaced the welch plugs and kept going. After a few years / maybe 30,000km, it seemed to pressurise the coolant and needed regular top-ups. After a few more years of this, (the bubbling head stage) I tried a stop-leak product, which I figured would help, do nothing, or block my heater core. I chucked it in and saw no difference at all.

                        Come back to one weeks ago, I shoved my phone down the side of the motor in video mode, and found coolant on the ill-fated coolant hose rubbing on the manifold. Coolant was weeping out from where it contacted the manifold, a leak which had finally progressed to the hissing noise I could now hear after turning off the car. Time to finally do something about this hose that I knew would be a problem for the better part of a decade.

                        Turbo/manifold came off easy enough, and I was in good spirits because I had a PLAN. I was going to re-make all of the turbo lines into compact, neat lines with banjo bolts. But lo and behold, I had some ancient HKS lines in a box with banjo bolts already. I was going to replace them on the sil80, but the car was running and I didn't want to tear it down. And promptly forgot about them when the car was out of a car for 18 months, because the motor wasn't running and therefore not a concern.

                        Anyway, with the manifold/turbo off, the lines and fittings came out too. Wait, what is that?

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                        Looks like that stop leak product DID do something. It completely blocked coolant feed to the turbo. Looking back at order of events, there was probably a tiny leak in that hose touching the turbo, so that high loop would eventually empty out, which is why the stop leak took effect there. But because its part of a flow through system, the coolant would back fill from from the drain side, and so would always have a tiny leak coming from that hose. That makes sense why it never seemed to pressurise/lose coolant for a few years after my potential head gasket hurting event, this probably started around 2017. The bubbling noise I could hear was probably heat from the manifold boiling coolant out of this line.


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                        The new/old lines are just over half the length of the pure chinesium lines, and much smaller in size. Curiously, they are a much smaller diameter than the gktech lines, but the chinese oil feed was Dash 3 with no restrictor. After speaking with GCG, this is a stupid size hose for an oil feed, and the new oil feed I found in a box was dash 4, which now has a 1mm restrictor banjo bolt. Happy to remove the last pure chinesium product from my engine finally.

                        Everything went back together easily, and first start and drive out of the driveway revealed a slight oil leak. Appears to be leaking from the oil feed fitting into the turbo, the only one thats impossible to access with the setup attached to the motor. Urgh... time to jack the car up again.

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                        Except this time, the crossmember flexed/deflected and slipped off the jack, and the jack went straight into the sump. Guess it's time to break out the ol' engine support brace and you know, drop the cross member again.

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                        Yep, crossmember is bendy.

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                        Yep, sump is bendy.

                        Pushed in about 10mm at the worst part. I wouldn't have cared, but I figured the sump pickup tube was roughly at this point. Opening for the pickup was only slightly bent, and pushed back out with gentle prying from a screwdriver. I couldn't remember, but somewhere I picked up an s15 style pickup tube for this motor. The original pickups have a round hole at the bottom of the pickup, so if the sump is pushed up into it, it blocks the hole and kills the motor. With the revised style, the hole is more ovaled, but the ends of the oval actually extend up the side, so if the direct bottom gets blocked, it still sucks up oil from the corners. Fun fact I know, but I never want to have to rely on that.

                        So tonights job will be pounding everything flat again, and re-re-re-resealing that gosh darned sump. Hopefully without breaking anything else.


                          Could you drill+seal a fumoto drain valve to the sump to ease oil changes?


                            ahhh fuck dude fuck


                              Originally posted by schnitzelburger View Post
                              ahhh fuck dude fuck
                              lol this you poor bastard


                                Full marks for our resilience with this project. I feel your pain with the sump - I've done exactly that before.

                                +1 for aerobrick's suggestion about a drain valve for the sump. Anything would be better than pulling the sump off for an oil change. Sump gaskets are no fun at all. Clean the mating surfaces, apply goop, and wait 24 hours before refilling with oil.