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Red Z

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    Looks ace.

    Having done the ground up resto thing, you do not want to know how much plating costs. Plus headaches of working out afterwards which bolt etc went where.

    This looks a lot more manageable.
    Originally posted by Stix Z
    i'm upset i lost that video of that aboriginal woman taking a dump on a train that was on youtube
    Originally posted by Jim
    Sorry, am late to this thread. I have been protesting against whitey oppressors all morning with my people. I shall serenade this thread with my didge until nash comes in and puts it all into perspective.


      Everyone tells me getting someone to plate a bucket of bolts is cheap! But apparently quality is hit and miss, doesn't include black coating, and they may or may not lose bits.

      Big hmmm.

      I feel like the info I can find is missing out "assumed knowledge" or just leaving things unsaid. Can't touch anything in between steps, but any method you use to hold them will compromise the finish. Final coat is meant to be immediately after electroplating, but it might need a rinse in water first? Looks like contaminants of different amounts in each step.

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      Bolts get reasonable coverage, but inbetween each layer of washers is going to be compromised. So multiple coats? Agitation?

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      I think the excess chromate dip reacted with something in the clear coat, putting some of the bolts in instantly preciptated a yellow snotty suspension, which had to be shaken off the bolts. Can still see some cum stains on the bolts, not quite sure what that is, either a byproduct or a contaminant. More investigation.

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      At least my black nuts came out good.

      Unsure when I can sneak in an hour to do another batch, but I'm itching to solve this.


        Peter Anderson on YT must be keeping his local plater in business.
        Originally posted by brewdles
        In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.


          Still waiting for my block to come home.

          So out of curiosity I started playing with a CAD program. Because I'm 'tarded and my shits all fucked up, I can't draw designs and recreate things from that, I thought it would be more cromulent to do it digitally. And because I'm 'tarded and my shits all fucked up, using any sort of drafting software that let you input measurements was a gooder idea. So straight to CAD then.

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          ​Then to confirm my dodgy measurements (I do everything with supercheap branded verniers, that zeroes at 0.4mm), I worked backwards and marked out a plate, which I cut with the scroll saw.

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          Getting happier with the product, it all fits neatly and fits under the standard coilpack cover. Still ironing out position of the coilpack bolt holes and will probably use nutserts for mounting them. I need to re-measure this kit after a friend does a naive test fit, and make any necessary adjustments to the CAD, then I'll get one water jet cut as a test. Rinse and repeat. I'd like to think my block will come back soon so I can do useful things but this has been pretty fun tbh. I'd like to have a batch of brackets cut out before I get busy with the engine which might contribute to paying for this nightmare.

          Next job on the list might be to figure out what to do with THESE wires.

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          <binky>oh shit</binky>


            Oooft, Big build now!
            Coil pack plate is neat.


              Now you’re on the $$$ that VE head is totally doable.
              Originally posted by Rdyno
              It's fucking storytime with Rdyno cunt shut the fuck up and fuck off.


                Nothing worth reporting, but have spent 30 seconds looking at the throttle I had downstairs.

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                S13 SR20 left, SH9 EJ255 right.

                Pretty much identical external dimensions, same height and will take the same hose lol. So no changes to intercooler piping required.

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                Holes could be slotted to bolt on, some of the casting on the front side will have to go. Will investigate with measurements later, or look at welding up the holes in the plenum flange and redrilling.

                Next job is to pull the loom out of the car so can start planning out the Elite loom. And decide whether to rob plugs off my current loom, or leave it intact to sell / stash. If I run all new sensors with the Haltech, it's only really the injector plugs and CAS plug that I would need, I think. If I change to a cam/crank trigger setup then I can skip that, and it's another VE-compatible mod. But more expense, also.

                Just need to figure out how to repeatedly sell coilpack conversions to Flanders for infinite internet build cash money.


                  Ha! Just walked in from test fitting my Bosch DBW throttle body to my manifold. My fits perfectly once I increase the bolt holes 1mm and done. Serendipitous in the extreme.


                    Originally posted by nopistons View Post
                    Just need to figure out how to repeatedly sell coilpack conversions to Flanders for infinite internet build cash money.
                    Good luck! The spark plugs in my newly built engine came from the head of one of my junk donor engines.

                    Originally posted by Rdyno
                    It's fucking storytime with Rdyno cunt shut the fuck up and fuck off.


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                      Finally got the block back from machining, and... waiting on parts. Stupid me didn't order things ahead of time, now finding out an alarming amount of things are nil stock in the country, some discontinued by Nissan, some just serious demand.

                      Could have planned this better tbh.


                        Have been reading and re-reading things to get my head around the Haltech wiring. On first look, I had a medium duty panic after allocating wires to the DBW setup. I immediately grew suspicious of Haltech's marketing but after sitting down and tracing wires it wasn't as bad as I feared. The ECU is listed as having 10 analog voltage inputs, AND native support for DBW. Step one of wiring: sacrifice 4 x analog voltage inputs to run DBW. In my stress I thought I'd have to run expansion setups just to have basic sensors, but it's not that bad. Time to lay it out, and join all of the dots.

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                        Step one: get a wiring monkey

                        Step two: draw the rest of the owl

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                        Reasonably happy with progress. Worth noting it's worth checking the pinout of each sensor, as the 'suggested' bundle of wire for each allocation may be generous or not generous enough.

                        Working clockwise from the right:

                        Crank trigger sensor
                        Cam home sensor
                        DBW throttle
                        Coolant temp sensor
                        Knock sensor
                        Air temp sensor
                        Oil pressure/temperature sensor
                        VVL solenoids (wishful thinking, but stupid to not sort it now)
                        Flex fuel sensor (as above)
                        DBW pedal
                        Boost control solenoid

                        With all of that mapped out, there are two analog inputs left - I'd love to have cruise control working, and fuel pressure sensor. A friend suggested running clutch/brake pedal switches in series, so they would only take up one input - but I have run out of +5V from the ECU. Which also means no fuel pressure sensor. I do have a pile of +12V but that seems of limited use. Cruise control can be sorted later anyway. The Z has a factory CC setup with dash buttons, and steering wheel controls, so incorporating all of that probably requires a CAN extension which is money I'm not spending now.

                        For the car to self-tune and/or run safely, will need a wideband O2, but that is by CAN so not part of my harness.

                        It looks like the only integration to the body harness is start signal, and fuel pump signal, I think I can handle the two wires.

                        The plan is to run the Powertune dash, so all these sensor inputs will be visible without spending another 1k on gauges that have no space to live. But it appears the OEM dash has other uses, too.

                        Only thing I'm not sure about before putting this away is the speed sensor. I can't tell from the ECU diagram if the Z32 speed sensor needs 5V in, it may just be a generation signal and an earth. But it looks like it goes direct to the dash, which converts the signal to what the stock ECU would normally see. Also whether or not the ABS computer needs to see this signal, or if it just goes off wheel speed, to do its thing. Also lower priority, since ABS is non-functioning ever since I broke one sensor on the diff, but ideally that would get replaced as well.


                          Ah yes, the joys of working with children.
                          Originally posted by brewdles
                          In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.