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    #31
    Thanks guys. And yes, its the povo spec pov edition tweed interior. I would love to swap to the black suede style but I'm not going to spend money on the swap </inb4 buying a donor car>

    Originally posted by Modified View Post
    Great read. If you want a set of rear speakers (look to be same size as 32 front speakers), I've a pair in the garage that won't make it to the GTR, as I forgot I had them and bought another set.

    Also, if you want to move the Tein EDFC, I'll lowball you for them and I'll even buy a flatbrim for the occassion.
    Completely unsure what I'm doing with them. Either try to modify them to use with the HSD's, keep with the Tein's as spares, or sell for profitz... I'll wait until you're no longer interested and then get desperate trying to sell them. We shall see.

    Originally posted by lonewolf View Post
    dont mind the SR20 idea, with a properly sized turbo should move along fine.
    I've seen one with a nissan V8 in it (VK?), that would be sweet but $$'s!
    VH45DE is a semi common swap on these. If you care about stock cars, they make similar power to the TT motors, but weigh hell of a lot less. They are a lot more work to make fit than an SR though... aside from keeping it in the family, if you're going to that much effort for an engine swap, you can't really argue against an L98.

    That said, there was a guy on SAU with a 180SX with the plates 450SX. Actually saw the car in Sydney, was a tidy 180 with R32 GTR wheels. I think stock it made ~160rwkw, pod filter and a nistune got it to 200rwkw, retune again on E85 got it to 230rwkw.

    Edit: actually I used that as a comparison to Lockys car once. VS. a stock S14 motor, with Unigroup cams, GTX2860 and E85:



    Under 3500rpm its got the edge, but above that you're not getting much return for the $. Depends what skills and technology you have available to you I guess. Al obviously has shown that these motors kick ass with a suitably sized turbo attached to them, but thats out of my capabilities and budget for the time being.

    Aside from 3 things, the SR swap is close to "bolt in", but the VH needs a lot of fab work done. Still, nothing in the SR swap will fuck the car irreversibly, so it won't be the last path of the car should I unexpectedly become burdened with time and money in the future.

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      #32
      Looking at the EDFC motors, the HSD's would need a bit of modification, and the Teins would be left with no way to actually adjust the damper settings. So I picked up some flexible extendery doodads from Otomoto.



      These just clamp onto the clicky adjusters with a grub screw, so pretty basic install.



      And a basic blanking grommet was used to cover the hole I put in the plastic trims.



      With the interior put back together, they tuck under the cargo blind, and noone is the wiser. They're out of the way at least, so they won't get bumped accidentally or damaged or yanked off the coilovers. Not as fancy or gimmicky as the EDFC.





      With the interior panels out, some of the cars hidden past is coming out. On passenger side is the fuel pump controller ECU, which was already unplugged and bypassed. Most 90s Nissans had this or a similar computer, and most have been bypassed by now. This is either because a) a better aftermarket pump was installed, and the owner didn't want to kill it*, b) it has failed and its easier to bypass it than replace it, or c) it failed and the owner had no idea it existed, and ran a new power and new signal wire to the fuel pump.

      The OEM setup involves switching power at the fuel pump from 12 to 5V based on need. This might be to prolong the life of the pump, or prevent fuel from heating up (from passing through the hot pump, then the hot fuel rails and back to the tank again), or a mysterious third choice. Aftermarket fuel pumps seemingly don't like being run on half power, so these are often bypassed. The other issue is the 30 year old wiring and shitty earthing leads to a voltage drop, so most standard setups dont even get the full 12V at the pump. Irrelevant now, but this ECU can go in the bin and take a few grams off the weight loss goal.



      Speaking of weight loss, the Tein EDFC can be removed now. This includes several meters of thick, insulated wiring to each motor, and also a few meters of excess wiring for the power. This would be to allow the installer to place the controller anywhere, but in this instance, it was all tucked inside the dash. To top off the professional install, a combination of twist-and-tape, scotch locks and bullet connectors was used.



      And even more mystery wires were found behind the rear trims. This shielded single core wire had been cut off and tucked under the carpet, and ran all the way back to the center console, via the outline of the drivers seat, under the carpet.



      Chasing that wire revealed more connectors, with another two pairs behind it. I'm assuming these are from a long-gone stereo install, but following them will involve pulling the dash out. That will have to wait til the nopics goes away for a weekend...

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        #33
        The internet tells me that Z32 and S13 front swaybars are interchangeable, can you confirm this?

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          #34
          This I do not know, and can't find any internet gossip about it. I do still have my whiteline swaybar from the sil80, so this is an interesting concept.

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            #35
            I can confirm they are not interchangeable.

            Z sway bar is wider, so the mounts are further apart. The front hoop is a different shape and at a different angle, and the feet of the sway bar are probably 100mm too short. Silvia sway bars connect to the control arms, and Z/skyline swaybars connect to the wishbone upright. 0/10 would not bang.



            Last week I took the car to Porters for an alignment. Was nice to get it on a hoist and have a look at things underneath. Except for the exhaust.





            The shiny stainless Xforce catback is actually Xforce mufflers welded onto a basic drainpipe system. There are roughly one thousand holes along the seam of the entire pipe somehow its still pretty quiet. I've missed out on a few donor cars lately, but I might step up my game to pick up a car with a nice exhaust.

            Otherwise just standard Nissan-ness. Front has uneven camber and poke, with passenger side sitting outside of the wheel arch with one degree extra camber. Closer inspection revealed that it already has offset camber bushes in front, so someone has tried fixing this. I noticed today while refitting the under trays that the subframe has been removed and bolted back on at some point, offset to passenger side, as there are tell tale marks around the bolts. CBF dealing with that for now, the subframes got to come out at some point if I change engines anyway.



            Car is semi-sensibly aligned, with new tires and balanced wheels. One of the new coilovers is squeaking, which normally wouldn't be a biggie, but to remove it and grease components, whole interior has to come out... I was trying to buy a car with the factory velour interior, but it was not to be. I might put up with the squeaking until a suitable donor car pops up.

            The car is a bit lower than I would have liked, but I was focusing on getting the ride height the same left/right/front/back, I didn't stop and consider how low it actually was. Live and learn I guess.

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              #36
              Nice write up. Looking forward to motor swap
              Originally posted by thebluerx7
              The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .

              Comment


                #37
                Love it man, well done so far
                Originally posted by The Property Guru
                don't haemophrodites generally have tiny wangs?
                Originally posted by oxy
                No, that's asians
                A80 Supra
                80 Landcruiser

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                  #38
                  So, a friend wanted to buy a factory head unit from Yahoo, so I thought it'd be a good time to trawl for Tomica cars and combine shipping. A few failed bids later, I ended up buying one of everything else currently for sale on the auctions, and parts from USA for good measure. With my car fund now negative, I thought it would be a good time to engage in some cheaper activities.




                  Since we moved house last year, and I ended up with the smallest garage we've put up with yet, I left a few stacks of Nismo wheels tucked in various places, including sitting the elements in the backyard. This has left them in various grades of "poor" condition. Off they went to get blasted...



                  The wheels came up in pretty good condition. They have probably been treated the worst by me, using them as jack stands and door stops, and have almost no rash or damage. Oh well. On went a few coats of engine enamel, which went mostly well. Apparently the worst thing you can do is tell your 3 year old that a wheel has wet paint on it.



                  "Yeah, it is wet!"



                  This was a bit of an experiment, but the colour and texture came out pretty well. We import a lot of Abro products at work, this is the "cast iron" engine enamel, which I think I will be using again on future wheels.



                  Threw on some tires I also had growing in the back yard with a liberal amount of tire shine applied. Car looks lowkey, not quite boring OEM, but not out of place. 16/17 staggered fitment just like an NSX bro



                  The fronts are 16x7.5+32, which was used on the Nismo 270R S14. They have an odd chunky centercap that says "NS5R", and a few casting differences to the rear wheels.



                  Rears I used are 17x8+25. They have massive brake clearance, concave face, deeper wheel nut holes, and slightly different features - they dont say NIZMO or the wheel size on the face, but do have the JWL standard logo. Pretty weird, it's almost like they came out of different factories. They did have a FORGED ALLOY WHEEL sticker before sandblasting, but I didn't want to fart around reproducing it. Maybe I should have.



                  Officially I was going to advertise them, along with the gold Volk GTU's I painted previously, but I'm enjoying the look of both on the car. I might just advertise everything and see what is left over, if anyone buys anything. I still have another set of backyard wheels to clean up, so should keep me busy til the Japan goodies arrive.

                  Yes, the rear bar fitment shits me, but I'm scared to try improving it.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Not a whole lot has happened lately. Some impulse purchases from Japan, some good, some bad. Have been slowly picking up bits for the swap as they pop up. Ended up buying another pair of wheels in order to get the centercaps, so that set feels nice and complete now.



                    I bought an old turtle wax wash mitt from work, which must have been extra dusty, so the car now has swirl marks all over it. That's a little soul killing. Otherwise, made the interior a nicer place to be. Got some ultra plush factory floor mats (complete with Japanese dirt), and finally got a car specific boss kit so swapped in the Nardi wheel from the sil80. This kit has buttons for cruise control on it, so was able to retain that functionality, which is nice.





                    Dumb things, but transformed the feeling of the car. Feels like getting back into my office. Probably more relevant, oldmate finished another batch of engine mount brackets, so probably pertinent to keep an actual list of things that I need to get or do.


                    To acquire:
                    - Engine mount brackets SZR brackets
                    - New engine mounts new Nismo engine + transmission
                    - Intercooler R34 GTT side mount
                    - Intercooler piping
                    - Exhaust - need to make Y pipe
                    - Spare crossmember
                    - SR20 bellhousing
                    - RB25 bellhousing
                    - SR20 flywheel
                    - SR20 clutch
                    - SR20 radiator Koyo rad
                    - R32 fan shroud
                    - RB25 clutch fan
                    - TT front bar or 2k

                    To do:

                    - Wiring
                    - Get bellhousings cut and shut
                    - Modify crossmember

                    Optional:

                    - A/C compressor
                    - A/C bracket

                    Next on the to do list is to finally install the R32 GTR diff. The stock viscous has mostly given up, the car is pretty much one wheel drive in the wet. Waiting for a kid-free weekend for that job though.

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                      #40
                      Somehow fell off your bandwagon for awhile there and totally missed the sil80 being stripped and sold off. You've definetly stepped up though. Thoroughly enjoy following your shenanigans

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Rdyno
                        It's fucking storytime with Rdyno cunt shut the fuck up and fuck off.

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Car has been off the road for the last two weeks, as nopics took the kids away for a night so that I could do some car things I had saved up. Car things being finally swapping in the GTR diff that was left over on the floor from the demise of the sil80. This swap isn't very well documented, so I was hesitant to take the car apart without a good chunk of time to nut it out...

                          There is an old(er) Z forum post where a guy details (with half broken pics) how to run the R32 GTR, but I wasn't happy with one of the steps. R32 GTR and Z32 TT use a 6x1 bolt pattern on the axles, whereas the NA Z uses a 5x1 pattern, same as most turbo skylines and some silvias (the rest using weaker, smaller shafts with a 3x2 pattern). The inherent problem is that the Z subframe is 40mm wider than the other Nissans, and the TT Z uses a bigger diff. Meaning there are no off-the-shelf shafts that can fit with the normal sized GTR diff. The previously-mentioned-swap had some spacers machined up that fit between the axles and the diff, and used longer bolts. I don't like this because the standard bolts are fitted bolts, and there is a tendency for superior high tensile/inappropriate bolts from shearing off in diff flanges.

                          The other choice, I also didn't like, but disliked less, is to space the shaft away from the hub. There are off-the-shelf china spacers available, so I thought I'd give them a shot.

                          Grocery list:

                          - R32 GTR diff
                          - Z32 TT axles
                          - Z32 TT or R32 GTR hubs
                          - 10mm axle spacers x 2

                          I already had the GTR diff and hubs with new(ish) bearings from the Sil80. So that's the complete parts list. Selling my GTR shafts and the spare TT hubs I picked up with the TT axles more than paid for the swap at least.

                          Coming from a Silvia background, where everything is rusted together and bodged up, there are a few major differences in the Z (and GTR). The Z and the AWD Nissan varieties use alloy rear knuckles, which has the benefit of nothing being rusted together. In my case, someone has done CV boots and diff bushes previously, possibly wheel bearings, but remembered to grease up the axle spline before putting in back in. Almost every Nissan I've stripped required a hammer to get the axles out. These just popped out by hands. Once the smaller nonturbo Z hub is out, the next big difference is visible.

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                          The alloy knuckles have a machined surface behind the hub, where an extra oil seal sits. I believe this is just to keep shit out of the assembly, as the shafts don't have an integral dust shield that the povo Nisan series have. The significance of this is that the chinesium spacers are designed to fit the GTR/TT shafts. Not to fit the car...

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                          Ended up shoving the diff in and packing up, and gave the spacers to Oldmate during the week to get turned down. Took them 1mm smaller than the seal that fills that hole, and they seem to block out any shit coming in. Still, packed it with wheel bearing grease for good measure. With that in, the TT shafts bolt up as per standard, and aside from the handbrake being out of adjustment, everything went together like factory.

                          It was a mostly straight forward operation, but I'm still expecting something to blow up. Feels like I'm ruining a good car... but have to remember what came out of it. The standard diff is a viscous center, which works more like a torque converter. Meaning The tailshaft spins the diff input, which spins the center, which... transmits drive to the rear wheels. This works pretty well in a fresh diff, and stock power levels. As the diff gets older, or in the wet, you can feel the strange sensation that one wheel spins faster than the other. This isn't like an open center diff, where in a traction loss event, one wheel gets all of the drive. A sloppy viscous is unpredictable as the wheels get different amounts of drive, but with any bump in the road or weight transfer mid corner or change in throttle, the amount of drive to each wheel will change again. This makes for very messy steering correction when being a ratbag, or even just putting your foot down in the wet can give unpredictable results.

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                          The standard GTR diff is a two way mechanical LSD. Two way meaning that the cam drives clutch engagement on accel and decel. Compared to cheap aftermarket diff centers, it's not savagely tight and it doesn't chirp in every parking lot, in fact it feels like a factory diff. But cornering character is completely different, the rear end of the car just feels predictable. My monkey brain is telling me to not ruin the car with skids now, but the stock diff was absolutely shocking in the wet. Did I mention the odometer stopped at 230,000km? The car has been well looked after by previous owners, but the diff was very, very sloppy indeed. The car looked like it had the original brakes on it still, which were replaced the week I bought it, but next on the maintenance list is replacing the stretched handbrake cables.

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                            #43
                            Great job! Well done, loving the progress

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                              #44
                              So basically, the guy was lying when he said the odometer stopped last week.

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                                #45
                                I must have missed this somehow. Awesome to see one of these still neat.

                                First time I ever got caught drag racing with in a TT auto one of these.... cop essentially said "can't be fucked dealing with this, go home" - not sure it would be so nice these days.

                                Originally posted by brasher
                                TJ is 99% African American.

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