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It's a Chilly Bin Bro! XR4 Daily Novelty FiST

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    I pulled up a chair today and 22m of my new wire stash to make a pigtail loom for connecting to my Arduino based testing and hacking jig.

    That’s getting a makeover at the moment as well, I’m basically building a rudimentary “chassis” loom so I can test various functions off car.


    Because this is just a test bench pig tail it only has to be about 1m long. I tend to do this in stages, cut the length in each colour. Then the canbus lines get twisted together, although not necessary on such a short run because there’s High and Mid buses it’s also convenient.


    All crimped and ready for the connector


    Next step, clip them into the connector. And there we go, factory colours, new connector.


    Fits like it’s in a car
    Last edited by Aaron; 26-09-21, 08:34 PM.
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    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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      Small thing, but finally the OBD Port sockets turned up.


      They are just another thing that goes to making the standalone install be more factory like.

      I’m still digging around for the connectors to suit the key-reader. But as it’s a standard 2.54mm pin header inside we can work around that.



      I know you’re thinking but why?

      Well here’s some shitty pics of what can be done with a $800 handset tuner.



      It’s not super fine detailed tuning but pretty good adjustment on an ECU that blends the WOT fuel rate down its map. Likewise the timing.

      It’s enough to be able to maximise the performance and sort the driveability.

      My car for example has benefited massively from bumping up the fueling. The car that I got these screen grabs from runs cams and a so on and again the aftermarket map was “pretty close” but just honing in the fueling gas made it much nicer to drive.
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      Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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        Although I’m converting the project loom to run Coil-on-Plug as it’s a Coil-On-Plug motor from a Focus I wanted to double check the coil plugs I have here, and I intend to at least trial my car running Coil-on-Plug. So I bought some coils.

        Click image for larger version

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        Yep like every other two pin Ford Coil.

        Click image for larger version

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        Used coils, but Ford genuine so should be fine.
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        Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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          How many embarrassing errors can I make and admit to? Well not many are going to eclipse this one for a while.



          Yep. After swapping the struts I had a rattle. Front left corner. But with lockdown and a lack of fucks I’d sort of ignored looking too hard. This morning I found a few fucks and in turn found my fuck-up.

          So while playing with kill-deathly spring compressors I had completely failed to fully tighten the strut top nut. At least it was an easy find, Jack car, grab wheel do the 12-6 and 3-9 jiggles and no noise, then do the lift, and clunk-tunk…. Complete with a decent enough movement to be seen.

          I’d sort of guess that’s what it was, so on some level of incompetence I feel vindicated.





          Grab the good vice grips, some lead flashing sheet to protect the shock shaft and crank it tight.

          Result, only the wiggle of a rubber strut bushing and pressed steel too plate.
          Last edited by Aaron; 09-10-21, 11:01 AM.
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          Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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            I may as well chuck up the link to have the flashing works in video form. This video is taken with a different tune to the pics above, this tune has the timing locked (which is fine for my current setup). So instead just dialling in some more fuel.



            I’ve bumped the fuel up a bit more as the LT and ST fuel trim values were still showing that additional fuel was being added as “normal”. Post enrichment it’s running much stronger in the mid-range and throttle response is generally better.

            Is this the best way to tune? No. But it’s an incredibly cost effective way to optimise things.
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            Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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              Well took it for a sedate test drive this afternoon.

              Fuck yes.

              No clunking or bad suspension noises. Shocks are a bit soft compared to the springs (no surprise there) but now that everything travels and moves correctly it’s a very different t car to drive.

              Oh and it moves pretty hard for a little nugget. Now I really really want that LSD, an extra 300cc and some cams.
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              Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                I've always kind of wanted one of these, you're not helping...
                Imagination is more important than knowledge.

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                  It’s probably the best and worst time to buy one.
                  - Best as there’s still clean straight examples with all their paint on the outside, and the interiors good enough to work from with just cleaning. For the most part there’s a strong community of owners who are pretty good at sharing info and helping each other out.

                  - Worst time as the good ones are $7000+ and will still have $500 to $1000 of issues that are “only takes 5 minutes” to fix. Lots of cars running around with 1.6L radiators and botched cooling system repairs for example. It’s almost impossible to get the factory unique parts now, harder than it was a less than two years ago when I got Chilly. I doubt post pandemic will see the availability improve.

                  Even though Chilly has never been cosmetically perfect he’s probably in the middle of the condition group despite the 250K on him. This thread pretty much covers every single thing that has been fixed, probably $3k in actual “fix this right” stuff. Things like the gearbox being made from unobtainium glass mean either spending $5k on another used gearbox, rebuild it, add the LSD or fabricate a MTX75 gearbox swap into the car.

                  My list is getting shorter and shorter though:
                  - Finish instrument lighting
                  - Find the rattle in the back (I have replacement seatbelt retractors now to fit)
                  - Shocks that aren’t worn out
                  - Paint upper grille black.
                  - Polish and clear coat headlights
                  - Improve intake
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                  Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                    Had some more stuff turn up for the standalone loom job.

                    The big win was the PATS Key Reader connectors that I was waiting for from the UK, somehow Farnell/Element14/DigiKey etc all only had stock in the UK.




                    So this was quickly crimped up onto the matching factory wire colour/gauge ready for incorporation into the recipients dash loom.




                    Then out with the wiring for the Accelerator pedal unit. Again match the factory colours and gauges.

                    The objective for me is to always make the end result OEM as possible.




                    Lastly make the COP sub-loom. This pretty much just parallels coils 1-4 and 2-3 and will still let the ECU first them as in waste-spark config. The resistance of the parallel coils is very similar to the resistance of the pair coil in the Fiesta style block coil.
                    Last edited by Aaron; 15-10-21, 03:19 PM.
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                    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                      I now have to do the OBD connector, and the cluster tail for this. Ultimately the cluster my just be replaced with and Arduino that will mimic the key code exchange but for now working on making sure it’s able to be wired.
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                      Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                        Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                          Pics above are after a quick wash and top-up of the coating with Reload. I’ve also finally relented and used the Mr Black (aka dye) on the mirror bases and roof rail strips.

                          The Eibachs make it a touch lower than it was on the coilovers. A lot nicer to drive though and I think that will only get better when I do the shocks. With a shit week of weather expected I may pull the cluster out and finally do the blue LED backlighting.
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                          Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                            Always impressive mate, out of interest where do you buy the individual coloured wires from?

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                              Originally posted by gmr View Post
                              Always impressive mate, out of interest where do you buy the individual coloured wires from?
                              Thanks.

                              I used to buy them out of the UK as the problem I found here was getting shorter lengths and a wide range of combinations across the 3-4 gauges OEMs tend to use. Back when I started playing with the OEM loom stuff (15 years now) it was 30m spool, special order and $30 each to source within AU. Little wonder few auto sparkies did more than what Narva sold. As you can tell some of this shit I’m literally using a half meter and then it could be years before I need the combo again so it’s not cost effective given I bill this out on a per metre basis (when doing stuff for people with money).

                              Then I came across Rapid (www.rapidcables.com.au) - they do an incredible range with 10m lengths being the minimum length for about $7 in 0.5mm2 - the most common signal gauge used. The wire itself is nice to work with, the stuff I was getting from the UK would vary the feel between colours let alone the gauges, where’s Rapids stuff has been super consistent.

                              Stock with them has been pretty good, some combinations I needed have been sold out but out of 51 combinations I’ve ordered recently not getting 3 is pretty good. Generally they send out the stuff within a day, they also do decent (but not stunning) pricing on connectors and stuff, but more often than not I’m chasing shit that’s too weird to expect it to be on-the-shelf in AU.

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                              Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                                Thanks mate cheers

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