Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

XM Falcon Coupe

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    That amount of rust honestly doesn't seem too bad considering the age of the car. If that's all there is I'd call it a win!
    Norbie!

    Comment


      #17
      The shelby drop relocates where the front UCA's bolt to the body. It drops the mounting points 1" and adds a little castor as well (possibly). It does lower the car a little, but mainly helps out the suspension geometry.

      http://www.myrideisme.com/Blog/ford-...-to-handle-it/
      I'm not straight outta Compton, I'm straight out the trailer.

      Comment


        #18
        Correct. The Shelby drop will take out 1/4" of ride height, and by relocating the upper arm down and back helps with castor. The main purpose though is to get the upper arm prescribe a shorter arc compared to the lower arm, so when the suspension compresses it gains negative camber.

        Standard Falcons gain positive camber when the suspension compresses, Xf spindles were slightly taller, which does the same thing. One thing to watch is if you dump it, and do the Shelby drop the upper ball joint maxes out and can destroy itself. There are camber wedges for this (cj pony parts) which mount the balljoint in a happier space.

        Comment


          #19
          Wow that’s nice, even with the rust surprises!

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Lord_fahrquhar View Post
            Correct. The Shelby drop will take out 1/4" of ride height, and by relocating the upper arm down and back helps with castor. The main purpose though is to get the upper arm prescribe a shorter arc compared to the lower arm, so when the suspension compresses it gains negative camber.

            Standard Falcons gain positive camber when the suspension compresses, Xf spindles were slightly taller, which does the same thing. One thing to watch is if you dump it, and do the Shelby drop the upper ball joint maxes out and can destroy itself. There are camber wedges for this (cj pony parts) which mount the balljoint in a happier space.
            on the xm/xp you need to check the clearance of the top arm rear bush as it can touch the suspension tower when you move the top arm pivot down and back .

            a bit of hammer use is the trick here

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by Lord_fahrquhar View Post
              One thing to watch is if you dump it, and do the Shelby drop the upper ball joint maxes out and can destroy itself. There are camber wedges for this (cj pony parts) which mount the balljoint in a happier space.
              This only really applies if you drop the top arm more than 1". You can go down to 1.25", but then you will definitely need the wedges
              Envy is Ignorance, Imitation is Suicide - Ralph Waldo Emerson

              Originally Posted by Stang:
              particularly when your body is functioning like a 1970s Alfa made by drunken chimpanzees on a Friday afternoon

              Comment


                #22
                Forgetting the rust looks hot. Keen to see how it pans out. Hopefully less rust
                BF XR6T - TE Sedan - 75 TX Coupe - Atlas SS - VF SS Redline

                - PSN: rotacoupe

                This is obviously assuming all your AUX outputs are doing something. Ie idle control, and the other does water spray, and the other updates your Instagram automatically etc.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I scrapped up most of the tar sealant yesterday and then had a dig around. There is a gap behind the panel with all the contact adhesive in it and the rear seat base. Click image for larger version

Name:	93C04A80-06D0-4FF4-8510-16715985EFBA.jpeg
Views:	472
Size:	2.80 MB
ID:	7133820





                  This is what I got out....
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	BC268D13-26F4-413A-A2F9-EFC5DA159A58.jpeg
Views:	478
Size:	2.26 MB
ID:	7133821
                  I need to steal the crevice tool on the Dyson when the missus is not looking to get the last little bits out.
                  "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Cool project man!

                    Comment


                      #25
                      I gave a few spots a run over with the nylon wheel. It didn’t remove all the rust spots so might try with a wire brush but I’m thinking new floor pans might be the go...

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	C6F373B4-CDE6-4800-831C-3C2AEAF609D7.jpeg
Views:	406
Size:	2.56 MB
ID:	7134204
                      "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

                      Comment


                        #26
                        If the metal is thin then yeah, new pans. But if it is still near original thickness then metal wire wheel on a angle grinder has that stuff up in no time. Just mask and after cleaning up hot shower. Stuff gets everywhere and you'll be like a HCJ blackface pantomime.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Yep, the brass wire brush on an angle grinder will do wonders. Get some smaller ones for the drill too for the tight areas. Note mizone's words about clean-up after. That stuff will get everywhere.
                          I'm not straight outta Compton, I'm straight out the trailer.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Noted and appreciated. I found a company selling complete floor pans that look like a really good match with pressings in the right places, but they are out of stock. Resto country also out of stock so grabbed the last patch panel In stock from rare spares as the metal sounds really tinny down near the join to the rear seat.
                            "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

                            Comment


                              #29
                              I thought I’d get a better indication of the rust in front of the LHS rear wheel so dug around with a screwdriver...


                              bugger! Some of the bog was still tacky! So I buzzed it with the stripper wheel.


                              Yeah,that’s not good. I gave up after finding that and put the car back in the garage. Feeling like I’ve bit off more then I was prepared for or can deal with. I guess the next step is get it sand blasted so I can see what else needs repairing?
                              Last edited by Cliffordcliffs; 25-04-20, 02:27 PM.
                              "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I just sold my XM wagon as I simply didn't get into the project... despite best part of 10 years in my garage.
                                Good luck... so much opportunity for rust.
                                The guys that bought my wagon bought my fathers 1 owner (him) XP coupe and his 'long term project' (car that was already like that when he picked it up 25 years go) XM/P ute.
                                In the coupes that rear C pillar area seems to be a stress and flexion point, defying most repairs.
                                Fortitudo et Superbiam

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X