Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

XM Falcon Coupe

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cliffordcliffs
    replied
    Gave me a chuckle!

    Leave a comment:


  • 9triton
    replied
    Can fit the side pipes in there

    Leave a comment:


  • Cliffordcliffs
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	63F38CA1-2F3D-416D-9439-3530EE40D586.jpeg
Views:	59
Size:	1.43 MB
ID:	7159272

    Leave a comment:


  • Cliffordcliffs
    replied
    Thanks for the replies, all valuable information.

    The sill doesn’t have the inside flange so will have to butt join it. Luckily the inside of the sill looked good, a little dry dust but no rust that I could see. I emptied a can of rustoleum rust preventer in from a hole in the sill and it was a total waste as it didn’t cover much at all.

    I will watch the vid but once I cut out more of the sill I will post on here before welding anything.

    cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • Dudeman
    replied
    This guy has a pretty awesome grinder/mig/simple tools approach. All his vids are good, but this one from about 7:50 shows a really trick method.


    Last edited by Dudeman; 28-06-20, 11:27 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • LB-XP
    replied
    Originally posted by garvice View Post
    I prefer to replace the whole sill (I.e don't patch just go whole hog front to rear including top and bottom flanges) but with your car that involves doing the rear quarters to. If your repair section doesn't have the flanges then the repair that lb-xp shows would be reasonable.
    yeah I would always replace the whole sill. That was my first try years ago.

    There is no sill panel available with a top flange (that I know of) I used a Craig Vane panel, so it had to be butt welded on the top. Came out pretty good in the end. Mine was a sedan though obviously so the rear will fit up different.

    Sorry for the photo bomb but just trying to share my very similar experience haha

    Click image for larger version

Name:	9221842138_bca8a4f999_c.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	116.6 KB
ID:	7158196

    Click image for larger version

Name:	9692584716_e756eab8e1_c.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	113.0 KB
ID:	7158197

    Leave a comment:


  • garvice
    replied
    Out of interest, when you cut the outer sill off last time, what did the inner sill look like? Much rust inside?

    Leave a comment:


  • garvice
    replied
    Clive, the top of that still is toast/previous repair on top is pretty rough.

    Did the sill replacement panel you got have the flange for the weather seal? (from photos looks like it just sits on top?)

    I prefer to replace the whole sill (I.e don't patch just go whole hog front to rear including top and bottom flanges) but with your car that involves doing the rear quarters to. If your repair section doesn't have the flanges then the repair that lb-xp shows would be reasonable. Just cut back little by little and keep rechecking the repair panel against the sill. You can always cut/grind more away. Adding more material is possible but harder.

    Leave a comment:


  • LB-XP
    replied
    I've done a sills on early Falcons myself. Might be on an old thread here but anyway, I actually had a similar problem to you. I ended up doing a patch then just replaced the whole sill again to avoid bogging it up.

    I would join it where the new sill ends, it will be under the trim like you say. Click image for larger version

Name:	9433147515_a639a7b28b_c.jpg
Views:	62
Size:	124.0 KB
ID:	7158187

    Leave a comment:


  • Cliffordcliffs
    replied
    I need some advice. I’ve been slowly getting the sill straight but becoming increasingly unhappy with the amount of filler to get it straight.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	13FC0B29-B2BB-4A89-A5DF-C5A1F92B6B1E.jpeg Views:	6 Size:	1.31 MB ID:	7158118

    I realise I should’ve cut more out of the sill as it’s bent quite a way back. With Brads words of wisdom ringing in my ears I cut a new sill piece.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	6DF04FF8-8E2A-4151-B809-2ECCBB94E8A0.jpeg Views:	6 Size:	1.25 MB ID:	7158119

    i learnt it it is much easier to cut to a line rather then hack and hope, and cut away from the angle grinder sparks means you can see where you are cutting (duh)

    the top of the sill is a bit manky from a previous repair.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	EABEC852-86F9-4E1A-96D5-51F27A6543D4.jpeg Views:	6 Size:	1.60 MB ID:	7158122


    my question is do I cut the top of the sill too as the new sill piece will cover it or is that going to make it a lot more complicated? I’m not overly concerned about a little bit of bog, and the top step is covered by a aluminium tread piece so is not even visible once it’s all back together. Edit: dammit, just writing it out made the choice obvious....
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Cliffordcliffs; 28-06-20, 07:47 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • uuheels
    replied
    I made a couple of sheet metal templates for my Mustang years ago, but couldn't bring myself to drill additional holes in the body.
    I'll see if I can find them.
    The template allows you to accurately position a couple of 1/8" pilot holes, then Ideally you'd step up a few times and finish with a 17/32" drill.

    Leave a comment:


  • 9triton
    replied
    when I did mine I printed the template from the web , taped to some 1.6mm plate , centre punched the holes. drilled the holes in template for the existing holes at 9/16" ( think) , and 1/8 inch template holes for the new hole locations.

    bolted on template and drilled 1/8" holes for the new holes, then that was template finished with. and then drilled progressively larger holes.

    is tough steel....
    Last edited by 9triton; 25-06-20, 11:16 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cliffordcliffs
    replied
    Got the roller spring perches today. Time to find a engineering workshop to make me the templates for the Shelby drop. Yeah, I know it ‘is easy’ but I’d rather pay a bit extra to know it was accurate before I compound any inaccuracy by drilling new holes.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cliffordcliffs
    replied
    I did see a kit for a 289-302 conversion.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/333611006094

    posting it so I can find it once bodywork is done...

    Leave a comment:


  • Speedyblue
    replied
    "Great to strengthen up the front end" Yep, if the XM cross member is anything like the Mustang one, it's just a bent bit of pipe.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X