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RA65 Celica - the wedge of cheese

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    Yeah my bets are also on the factory fuel pump being weak sauce.

    Sucks having to take the manifold apart again but if that's the only thing wrong so far I'd call it a win.

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      I hope it does turn out to be the pump, that will be an easy fix!

      Originally posted by LB-XP View Post
      Sucks having to take the manifold apart again but if that's the only thing wrong so far I'd call it a win.
      According to internet experts the welds are no good and the whole thing is going to fall apart, so I have that to look forward to as well.
      Norbie!

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        I've been back and forth on whether I'd put proper idle control on the engine or just wind in the stopper on the throttle plate and live with that. In the end I decided to do it properly, and ordered one of these two wire idle control valves from Goleby's:



        I've never used one of these before but it looks like it's as simple as wiring up one pin to one of the DPO outputs and the other to +12v and the Haltech takes care of the rest? I dunno, sounds a bit too easy, but we shall see. I'll have to buy some -8 hose and fittings to hook it all up but that shouldn't be too hard.
        Norbie!

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          Is your E6X capable of 2 wire idle control? Just check the PWM output (which drives low) can deal with the current requirements of the Mazda/Ford style solenoid used.

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            Hmm good question. If I understand the manual correctly it describes the above as a BAC valve which is controlled by one of the PWM outputs, and the manual says this about PWM outputs:

            4 x Dedicated PWM outputs capable of driving: 1A continuous pull to ground - Suitable for controlling turbo waste-gate, solenoids, valves, shift lights, relays etc.
            1A sounds like plenty?
            Norbie!

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              yep it won't pull 1a.

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                Cool, thanks for the input.
                Norbie!

                Comment


                  E6x has idle control output
                  Last edited by matty12; 28-09-20, 09:46 AM.

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                    Originally posted by matty12 View Post
                    E6x has idle control output
                    It has dedicated idle control outputs but they are for stepper motor type IACV only. For the 2 wire BAC type above you have to use a PWM output.
                    Norbie!

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                      I spent last night looking into the exhaust leak in the turbo manifold. I ran a straight edge over the mounting flange and found a slight high spot near cylinder #4, so I spent some quality time with some hand files trying to get it flat:





                      I should really send it off to be machined properly but hey, this is the zero dollar turbo build, I can't be throwing money around like that!

                      So I put the manifold back on with some high temp gasket sealant and tightened the nuts until I nearly passed out, and that seems to have mostly done the trick - I can no longer feel the puffs of gas coming our near cylinder #4, and it's way quieter to boot. It's not perfect yet though, I can feel a slight stream of hot gas coming out around the collector - I think one of the welds has a small gap in it. I'll investigate this later but for now this is pretty close to sorted.

                      Another quick video of where I'm at, I'm also showing off the LED lights I installed (everything is done now apart from the rear number plate ones):



                      I filled up the cooling system with proper coolant since I don't anticipate pulling that apart again, and I let the engine get up to temperature again to triple check there are no coolant leaks. Once again I found nothing, just that annoying slow leak in the turbo oil drain.

                      The next task is to install the new fuel pump and see if that solves my fuel pressure issues. I'm not sure what I'm going to find inside that fuel tank, hopefully it's not as bad as my Supra one was but I'll find out soon enough!
                      Norbie!

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                        That is excellent, mate!!

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                          flat surface, large piece of 80 sand paper, get that gasket surface flat, gasket goo, done
                          Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                          "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                          Comment


                            Bench top Belt sander was one method I’ve seen done
                            ---
                            Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                            Comment


                              or knife sharpening block
                              www.holditflat.com

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                                All fine ideas but I'm pretty sure I got it flat enough with the files. But we'll see what it's like on its maiden voyage, hopefully soon.

                                Today's mission was to install the new fuel pump and see if that solved my fuel pressure woes. I was expecting a big fight but it all went surprisingly smoothly!

                                Fuel tank dropped along with 35 years worth of road grime:



                                This is one of those occasions where I'm very grateful to have a hoist, this was a quick job today but it's far more painful if you have to do it with the car on the ground.

                                Hanger and OEM pump out:



                                I was expecting the inside of the tank to be a disaster, but apart from a bit of sit in the bottom it's pretty much pristine in there:



                                So, not much to do but put the new pump on the hanger and send it. It actually fits really nicely, I didn't even bother with a hose clamp to hold it on:



                                I normally hate these crimp connectors but I wasn't sure if the solder and heat shrink method I usually use would be suitable for the inside of a fuel tank:



                                Anyway I re-assembled everything without incident and turned the key to see if the fuel pressure changed. And... it was still sitting on 25psi, WTF!!! I tried starting the engine to see if that would have any impact, but no, the needle never moved. I tried winding the FPR adjustment all the way in but still no movement of the needle, however I noticed the idling engine reacted to the adjustments - it was definitely doing something, it just wasn't being reflected on the gauge! So I deployed my failsafe troubleshooting method and hit the gauge. Sure enough the needle instantly jumped to 90psi. So yeah, faulty gauge - the old pump was probably just fine. Oh well, I get good readings now, so long as I remember to hit it regularly:



                                I wanted to set the base pressure at 40psi but the engine was obviously running very lean, so I pushed it all the way up to 80psi and it seemed a lot happier. Obviously I'm not going to leave it like that, a bit of Page Up action in the Haltech software is in order. But first I need to install my old wideband gauge, so that's next on the list!
                                Norbie!

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