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RA65 Celica - the wedge of cheese

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    #76
    Originally posted by Norbie View Post

    That's definitely an option we'll be looking at!
    Well it is basically an emissions “air pump” and I’m sure there’s room where one of those was.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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      #77
      I'll mention that to the engineer. LOL jk no engineer is going anywhere near this.
      Norbie!

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        #78
        Originally posted by Norbie View Post
        I'll mention that to the engineer. LOL jk no engineer is going anywhere near this.
        They made the problem in the first place
        ---
        Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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          #79
          Awaiting updates- surely you have finished the turbo install and repaired the car by now

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            #80
            Haha yep fair call, I need to pull my finger out and get this shit done.

            First job was to get the filthy engine bay cleaned up a bit. I used oven cleaner which worked great on the Supra when I first started pulling it apart a couple of years ago, but it was less successful here. It definitely got a fair bit of grime off but not all of it, even after a second go. Interestingly some of the paint came off when I hosed it down with a pressure washer, especially the drivers side strut tower and the top of the firewall, I guess the paint was thin there for some reason?



            I was hoping not to pull the engine bay apart too much but I realised there was no getting around it, I had to empty it completely to get at everything properly. So I removed the last of the PS and AC lines, the brake master/booster and most of the brake lines, and even the steering column came out:



            This little repair job just keeps getting bigger and bigger! But with all that stuff out of the way I could finally get in there with a flap wheel and grind some of that rust off, which felt real good:



            I also got started on the chassis rail from under the car, which felt way less good with all the grinder dust landing on my face:



            I didn't get too far with this before I realised I have to disassemble the car even further - I'll have to drop the crossmember and possibly remove the brake and fuel lines running along the transmission tunnel. Hey remember when I said I wanted the engine out and back in within a week?

            While that was happening I tried to clean up the inside of the inlet runners, plenum and throttle body. It was badly encrusted with filth thanks to EGR bullshit, so I thought I'd try oven cleaner and see if that could shift it:





            It did loosen some of it but not enough, so after consulting with internet experts I decided to try soaking it in this Simple Green stuff overnight:



            It's worth a shot I guess, it's not like I'll be driving this thing any time soon! If anyone has tips or tricks for getting rid of this nasty goo please let me know. It's probably not strictly necessary but I don't really like the idea of running the engine with all that shit in there so if I can get it out I'll feel a lot better.

            I haven't made any more progress on the turbo conversion yet, rust repairs are the priority for now. I'll try to smash through it as quick as I can though, I'm as keen as anyone to make ridiculous whooshing noises with this thing!
            Norbie!

            Comment


              #81
              Tripling the budget of $0 in flappy discs and solvents, nice!

              No bov also for extra dose noises.

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                #82
                No room in the budget for a BOV unless one shows up in one of the junk piles I have access to (which is possible). I'll probably end up with a screamer pipe for the same reason.
                Norbie!

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                  #83
                  Just be mindful there’s two things Simple Green eats - zinc and aluminium.
                  ---
                  Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                  Comment


                    #84
                    I looked it up and it says not to use on certain materials but aluminium is not one of them? Simple Green make a range of products though, you might be thinking of a different one.
                    Norbie!

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                      #85
                      Lord no to the screamer. Running low boost you'll go deaf and be thrown in jail on your daily commute.
                      Sticking with the no budget deal, see if you can swap that turbo for something internally gated. Td0515g or some shit.




                      Last edited by Kiahatsiu; 06-07-20, 04:03 PM.
                      Torque sells tow cars.
                      Horsepower wins horse races.

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Originally posted by Norbie View Post
                        I looked it up and it says not to use on certain materials but aluminium is not one of them? Simple Green make a range of products though, you might be thinking of a different one.
                        I used it for years on alloy with no (to my view) downside either, but yes it does corrode alloy, and will cause a reaction on zinc plated hardware. There’s a bunch of stuff on various cardigan and/or rainbow wearing forums about it where use of it is blamed for everything including the colour of their president.

                        When you use it be really aware of rinsing off well, and also it’s better if bucket soaking like you are to remove any bolts etc as it does seem to increase the rate of bolts seizing in the alloy - that’s something I found was very true, and since I stopped using it I’ve not had that problem.
                        ---
                        Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Oh, the bolts take weeks/months to corrode in place, it dries in the threads and the alkaline nature of it does electrolysis stuff I guess and you get a chalky salty residue around the bolt head...
                          ---
                          Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Noted, I'll make sure to rinse out the bolt holes real good and use plenty of anti seize.

                            More escalation occurred last night, I pulled the crossmember + front suspension out. At least this is a lot easier to do when you can just lift the car up off it with the hoist!



                            This gives me nice clear access to the affected areas, apart from those pesky fuel lines:



                            I was a little bit worried about how I was affecting the balance of the car after removing all that weight, and sure enough some light upward pressure on the front bumper made the car start to tip up. So I put some wheel ramps down under the back wheels and lowered the car until the wheels were just touching. This made the car lower than I would have liked but at least I don't have to worry about it falling off the hoist.

                            Anyway I made some good progress with a flap wheel and various wire wheels:





                            That's the firewall done and the front part of the chassis rail is about half done, just have to move the fuel lines out of the way to finish it off. The plan is to get this front part done first (including painting), then reassemble the front end so I can safely hoist the car up again, then I'll tackle the underside of the car.

                            And then re-assembly can begin. It sounds so easy when you just list it out like that!
                            Norbie!

                            Comment


                              #89
                              I would advise using at least 2pk clear with hardener on the engine bay - otherwise paint chips galore will appear in no time
                              .
                              .
                              or if you are lazy go get some of this and use a paint brush - smooths out pretty well without using a gun....just buy the smallest amount needed, once that tin is open there is no resealing it!!
                              Last edited by japlish; 08-07-20, 09:02 AM.

                              Comment


                                #90
                                Hmm, I'm sure that would be better but I've already put way more effort into this thing than intended, so it's getting a rattle can paint job.

                                Speaking of paint, I'm having silly thoughts about using some of this on the valve cover and EFI plenum:



                                In repsplendent red of course, Skid Factory style.

                                Silly thoughts aside, my new water pump arrived yesterday so I was able to finish putting the accessories etc back together and get all the belts on:



                                It's pretty close to being ready to go back in the car, but I need to sort out some of the coolant lines first which have corroded badly and will likely cause me trouble later. One of the coolant pipes is getting chopped off and a -6AN fitting welded in its place, and the other end is this guy which screws into the bottom of the inlet manifold:



                                Ideally I'd get an adapter from -6AN to whatever that thread is, then I can use a short length of -6 hose to connect the two, job done. Can anyone guess what thread that might be? It's 16-17mm diameter and tapered, but I don't have anything that measures tapered threads so I can only guess what it is. Some sort of BSPT thing perhaps?
                                Norbie!

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