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The poor mans AE86

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    Originally posted by clutch-monkey View Post
    How are the hilux boxes to shift? Feels weird putting a smooth spinning Honda engine in front of a truck box?
    Certainly 10x better than any R154 I've ever driven (& have driven cars with stock & Marlin Crawler modified boxes). Much smoother shift imo, & the later model JZX110 Verossa remote shifter housings are a much better improvement over the earlier tripod remote shift assemblies too. I really don't mind them but then again I'm not fussy. Dneg has one behind his 1UZ (R151 from a KUN26 05-15 Diesel Hilux) and it shifts like butter...........


      Originally posted by nastysven View Post
      Defo nicer than a t56.

      Not sure how I broke it, but the diff went shortly after. Driving the fuck out of it with a HD clutch probably(~100k km).
      Not a W56? They came in tons of Hiluxes.
      The MX5 Noujet (its up market) | The Hilux Complete Nugget
      I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence


        Struggling to find time to play with this due to moving house but I'll slowly piece it together.

        So the main issues with these conversions are -
        - setting up RWD water lines
        - setting up a rear or front sump (chassis dependant)

        Water lines you just buy off the shelf bits. Setting up a RWD sump is a bit more tedious. You either spend $2000 on premade gear (TF-Works) or turn on the welder and have at it. Well I've chosen the latter

        So below is all the shit you will want to remove off the motor:

        & no that's not a's the stock K24 oil pump complete with very heavy balance shafts. Also ditched the stock RBB VTC gear and have upgraded to a Type R RBC gear (allows for up to 50deg cam advance instead of the standard 25deg, although on a K24 you don't want to exceed 40deg).

        So the idea is you ditch the K24 oil pump and trade up to a K20 pump instead. No balance shafts, and more importantly they have a oil pick up which you can modify. Pump needed a date with the grinder, flap disk and linisher to clear the block though.

        The block also needs a quick mod. There is an aluminium grommit pressed into the block with a little hole, this needs to be blocked or you end up with low oil pressure. So you basically use a screw and wind that into the hole, then pop it out (it's a bit of a cunt to pop out.....). Then you just wind a M8x1.25 bolt into the hole with some sealant on the threads.

        Next step is to modify the pickup. There is an adapter I could of bought but I wasn't a big fan. It basically takes oil from the pick up and slams it at a hard 90deg back to the pump gears. Figured that wasn't the greatest idea so bought some 32mm alloy donut and re-routed the pick up to the front of the motor. This way you can make a nice front sump and keep the back really slim (this is important for later when we need the motor to sit as low as possible for bonnet clearance).

        Also added some ribbing to the underside, Honda had something similar before I chopped it up so figured Honda knew best and added it back in. There is a gap in the brace bit to clear a bolt, but I added a brace on the opposite side to keep continuity.

        So with all that solved, I'll slap the chain back on and re-seal it all up. Sump will need a trim, then next step is bolting the gearbox etc on. Might be a couple of months before I can work on fitting it into the car though


          wow dat pickup


            Quality fab work


              Thankyou fellas for the kind words.

              Just waiting for a front oil seal for the timing cover to show up before I can re-seal the whole thing and take it off the stand.

              One note worthy thing on these motors. Fuck me the crank pulley bolt is on tight. 100% you want to crack that prior to removing the flywheel (so you have something to lock before using a breaker bar). Had a cunt of a time doing it on an engine stand, had to get a co worker to stop the stand falling over, and made up a tool to lock the crank at the back :<


                Timing cover is now back on and all sealed up.
                So lesson learnt, I think if I had to re-do the oil pump again. I would do a bit of extra grinding so the oil pickup can be unbolted from the back side of the motor. That way you can unbolt it in the car if needed without having to pull the timing & oil pump chains off it. Would make it easier to pull the sump off in the car instead of lifting the motor in and out 100 times. Not to mention much easier to fab a pickup in situ. But anyway.

                So to work around this I've just stolen Toyota's idea of having a 2 part sump. I've cut the sump down to the bare essentials, and plated over the rear section as close as I'm prepared to go to the splash guard (I figure some oil needs to flow between it and the sump, so didn't want to reduce this gap too much in case it created issues later on). The motor will sit 15deg on the piss, so part of the plate is 15deg just so I can sit it as close to the crossmember as possible.

                Next was to draw up some sort of flange to weld to the front section. This will basically mean I can sit the motor in the car, and fabricate the rest of the sump later on when I'm ready. I'll just tack weld it all for now and if it works how I want then I'll zap it one last time and leave it be.


                  Couple more revisions, cut one in 3mm mild steel and tack welded it onto the sump. I think it will work but will just leave it tack welded for now.

                  Had a few people asking me if I had finished making the water pump & oil cooler block off adapters so figured I should work those out. Came up ok, I should probably buy a sheet of stainless but whatever it's just another part that gets powder coated anyway :>