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Tales of Sebastian Woodhouse the 3rd

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    #76
    Today would be able to be called illuminating.


    Thanks Australia Post and dodgy eBay seller I now have extra LEDs! They even ended up free! Bonus.


    The obvious dig around the boot lining and get access to the taillights.


    New LED hotness versus the blown old skool bulb.


    I had taken the opportunity to clean under the boot seal, which exposed some typical Australian car quality - poor sealing of the joint in the sheetmetal so that water has been able to intrude. I guess I'll plug it from the top and inject a crapload of rust treatment and hope. Lets be honest this isn't a forever car, but who needs rust.


    Probably caught this just in time.


    Old dome light.

    New LED dome light. Thats all the interior lights now done with LEDs.


    Found this scrunched up inside. Obviously someone didn't think much of the sentiment.
    Last edited by Aaron; 25-09-21, 03:35 PM.
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    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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      #77
      Good opportunity to get some rust converter on that before it grows

      I bet the brake lights are BRIGHT!!!!

      Comment


        #78
        They are bright

        Something keeps eating the post text.
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        Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

        Comment


          #79
          The nest fun thing for today was installing the Genuine Toyota Interior Illumination kit.

          I mean it only takes 40 minutes right?


          The first challenge was getting the correct install guide from the Toyota Website because the part number is common to many variants of model and the guides are all different.


          I laid the wiring out in the sun in the hope it would get more pliable. It did, kind of. It also got sticky.


          The install requires the trim for the B-Pillar and the A-Pillar to be removed, drilled and the light modules installed.


          The instructions include diagrams and dimensions so they are transcribed onto the tape.


          Hole drilled to 16mm and the light module screwed in,


          Light module as it looks to the occupants of the vehicle. No the grey doesn't match, and to be honest they're a bit dated looking to me.


          A-pillars are much the same, mark as per guide.


          Drill and mount.



          Last edited by Aaron; 25-09-21, 03:51 PM.
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          Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

          Comment


            #80

            Once the trims are drilled the wiring "fun" starts. Its not fun. I mounted the control module first as an anchor so that I could avoid following the Toyota instructions to the letter and run the drivers side branch in a much more convenient path.


            Its tapped into the factory loom at the base of the windscreen on the a-pillar


            Toyota supplies vampire clips. I cringed but used them


            Clip on, and no worky. Reverse the orientation of the wiring (the instructions didn't say what colour to connect to the two white wires).


            And the working light.

            They're actually Blue LED and a small incandescent globe in a combo. I've no idea why but will be intrigued to see how it looks at night.
            Last edited by Aaron; 25-09-21, 04:06 PM.
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            Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

            Comment


              #81
              That’s had a rear quarter panel replaced for sure looking at that pic of the boot channel.
              Originally posted by Rdyno
              It's fucking storytime with Rdyno cunt shut the fuck up and fuck off.

              Comment


                #82
                Originally posted by StupidFlanders View Post
                That’s had a rear quarter panel replaced for sure looking at that pic of the boot channel.
                100% it’s had work done on that side of the car.
                I’ll pull more of the trim back and look at the way the quarter is attached just for peace of mind around any other bits of corrosion. Under the car there’s no glaring signs of a bad repair, and whenever this one done it was a quite while ago so probably an insurance job when the car was much younger. The wear on the edges of the boot opening and general swirl/abuse level was the same on both sides supporting that theory.

                I knew the rear door on that side (drivers) has been repaired (or painted) at some point because there’s a fucking run in the handle cup! The buffer also responded differently over that portion of the car indicating different paint, slightly softer and you can pick the blending from factory to the repaired section.

                Today when I had the trim off down the side of the car I had a good look at the B-pillar and the floor/sill box and there’s some wet-sand and buffer residue and stuff on the loom, sill box and so on. It’s also the door that was missing the rubber cap on the light switch.

                My assumption prior to today was a decent scrape against a post in a carpark or a light side-swipe where the door was definitely repaired/replaced, along with a repair to the wheel arch/door surround on the quarter with a blend up the c-pillar and across the quarter.

                I’m obviously a bit disappointed, but the car was cheap, bought unseen, and obviously the repairs are good enough that they only become apparently when trim bits are removed.

                Is there anything I should look for or just treat the rust and move in with life?
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                Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                  #83
                  Click image for larger version

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                  Crack the door at night and suddenly it’s all fancy. The combination of light they use does give an odd purple hue.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  The rear is obscured by me having the seats a fair way back.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Overall I’d hate to have paid for this as a dealer for option, but for the $80 the kit cost it works well and fulfils the want for footwell lighting.
                  what I do like is the symmetry of the install - something which would have taken some effort to achieve with a complete DIY.
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                  Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
                    Is there anything I should look for or just treat the rust and move in with life?
                    I’m no panel beater, a previous job involved me checking for stuff like this though. I guess yeah, treat the rust and keep an eye out for water leaks pooling up in the boot. Removing the inner trim should reveal a lot more of how good a repair it was.
                    Originally posted by Rdyno
                    It's fucking storytime with Rdyno cunt shut the fuck up and fuck off.

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Originally posted by StupidFlanders View Post

                      I’m no panel beater, a previous job involved me checking for stuff like this though. I guess yeah, treat the rust and keep an eye out for water leaks pooling up in the boot. Removing the inner trim should reveal a lot more of how good a repair it was.
                      No water ingress in the boot - well not flowing in and pooling. Zero trace of that, and zero evidence in the dust layer of the boot floor. Parking it arse up would get some seepage on that seam line. But once that’s resolved I’m confident it’s dry.

                      I had a good look under the body when doing the antiroll bar and there’s nothing recent or obviously “different” so I will presume it’s done as well as a one would want it done.
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                      Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Originally posted by Aaron View Post

                        Once the trims are drilled the wiring "fun" starts. Its not fun. I mounted the control module first as an anchor so that I could avoid following the Toyota instructions to the letter and run the drivers side branch in a much more convenient path.


                        Its tapped into the factory loom at the base of the windscreen on the a-pillar


                        Toyota supplies vampire clips. I cringed but used them


                        Clip on, and no worky. Reverse the orientation of the wiring (the instructions didn't say what colour to connect to the two white wires).


                        And the working light.

                        They're actually Blue LED and a small incandescent globe in a combo. I've no idea why but will be intrigued to see how it looks at night.
                        This looks great, I love seeing these kinds of modifications.

                        Comment


                          #87
                          I know you put this up as a shit stir but its been equal parts satisfying and amusing to watch you methodically go through this and lavish attention on something that people generally dont give a shit about.

                          Good work, and carry on sir.
                          1978 Gemini Sedan - Powered by i change my mind every week - R.I.P
                          1980 Gemini Sedan
                          1987 Range Rover Vogue
                          1996 TF Holden Rodeo

                          Comment


                            #88
                            You know it’s a bad day when you need to use the rattle gun to disassemble an oil filter housing!



                            So yeah. The way this is meant to work is after draining the sump, this cap gets removed from the filter housing and a drain nipple inserted.


                            This drains the filter housing so it doesn’t make a mess when you remove the housing.

                            Well I got to make a fuckload of mess.




                            Cleaned it all up and flushed out some sludge from the bottom of the housing and reassembled with a new filter.

                            I’d pretty much expected to find this to be a sludgely v6. They’re known for it, and while the service schedule is complete it was always going to have some sludge .



                            Camry life. The Jack can Jack from the jacking point without jacking to get the Jack to the jacking point!
                            ---
                            Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                              #89
                              Will try to get out of town on some long runs in the next few weeks, then throw some flush and other sump load of 5W30… (using Gulf Western euro Energy as it’s to spec and cheap full synth). Oil
                              Change costs about $50 for the oil and filter.
                              ---
                              Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                              Comment


                                #90
                                So the oil filter faces down? Or the plastic thing inserted opens the return valve?

                                ​​​​​
                                Originally posted by piss98
                                fuck I'd be happy to suck Bill Gates off

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