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Any Patrol gurus here? GQ & GU

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    Any Patrol gurus here? GQ & GU

    now the GQ's and soon enough GU will be into the 30yr old historic rego window in NSW ive been casually considering one of these old tanks as a cheap 4wd project. I acknowledge the TD42 attracts quite a price premium over the rest, particularly the 4.2 petrol. Fuel consumption aside is petrol donk that bad? secondly how are the 4spd auto's in them?

    taking a brief look at the interweb shows some GQ's being equipped with GU diff's. are the GQ diff's really that bad they need to be swapped out?
    RB26......................Again

    #2
    Dont believe anyone who tells you a Gq doesnt have rust. If they truly believe their GQ is rust free, it just means they havnt found it yet. Gus tend to be rust free with the usual issues of repairs, beach cars, etc

    GU diffs are wider. The original claim to fame is stronger CVs, they are a decent chunk larger than a GQ. Personally, the big advantage for GU diffs in a GQ is you can run a lovely +10 offset rim for the same overall width of GQ diffs on -22 (ish). So you dont munch bearings and they drive better.

    I am not shy of my dislike for a TD42, anyone who says they are the best patrol engine has their head up their ass. In stock form they go forever and are as slow as anything (im talking factory turbo models here). Once you start to up the power you run into a whole world of reliability issues and you loose the fuel advantage. Go onto any TD facebook page in summer and enjoy the overheating threads. They seem to be popping cranks every week now with 'decent' power.

    Best patrol model was the TB48 but they wont be in your 30 year window. TB45 can be found in a series 1 Gu. I personally believe these are the most reliable patrol motors as long as they haven't been on gas. Countless TB45s have done massive km with nothing more than regular servicing and plenty of fuel. We raced a TD42 with 12mm pump a few months back against a dead stock engine wise TB48, rolling start to just over 100km. They were door to door. TD42 owner wasnt very excited, they spent as much on mods as the TB48 owner did for the whole rig. Throw some 4.1s on the TB48 and it would be bye bye 12mm pump TD.

    I've owned a couple patrols and been around them heavily for about 10 years now.

    Comment


      #3
      this is really helpful mate, thanks. I should of asked about the TB48 as ive not heard a bad word about them? hows their auto box?
      RB26......................Again

      Comment


        #4
        I've got a td42 GQ with a Kinugawa turbo stuck on it, GU diffs and heaps of other stuff mainly aimed at making it a better camping rig.

        Did 12.3L/100km on a trip to Queensland from Melbourne last month sitting on the speed limit the whole way.
        My td42 has been great, it's got 19psi stuffed in to it, the stock pump wound right up, it doesn't overheat and has only had normal maintenance to get it to it's 425,000kms.
        I put the GU diffs under it because my swivel balls where shot and it was stuff all extra to upgrade to the GU diffs.

        I originally bought the TD42 cause we used to do stupid stuff off road and the diesel was great when going through deep rivers etc. Now the only advantage is I managed to drive 1000kms home over two days with no alternator after it shit itself just north of Wollongong.

        If the TD shit itself or I was looking now I'd swap a barra in or buy a petrol Patrol.
        Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by fly510 View Post
          this is really helpful mate, thanks. I should of asked about the TB48 as ive not heard a bad word about them? hows their auto box?
          RE5 is pretty stout in stock or near stock form. Once you start slapping on turbos the RE4 (stock auto box for every other engine (Zd30 and TB45 mostly) is the better box, mainly due to the fact they can be built stronger and cheaper.

          RE5 drives nice (for the era it is from) and suits the TB48 nicely.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ar3nbe View Post

            RE5 is pretty stout in stock or near stock form. Once you start slapping on turbos the RE4 (stock auto box for every other engine (Zd30 and TB45 mostly) is the better box, mainly due to the fact they can be built stronger and cheaper.

            RE5 drives nice (for the era it is from) and suits the TB48 nicely.
            I think an awesome mega capable and cheap rig would be RE5 auto TB48 GU on skinny 37’s with manual TB48 GU diff gears, 2 inch lift and a bunch of guard cutting. You would have awesome crawl ratio, great torque to the ground and auto smoothness over obstacles. On road it would be fine also. There are options for 35 inch tires if you want to go smaller, but why not go 37’s if the ratios are there to use them.

            one reason soot chuggers became so popular is because they suit incorrectly geared vehicles better both on and off-road. So when guys put big tires on it favors the diesel. So cats that put 35’s on their patrols with no gear change the diesel does a lot better, even in terms of fuel economy. The combo mentioned above would dominate a TD42 on stock gearing.

            doesnt suit the OP though as the TB48 isn’t available for historic rego
            Last edited by vet 180; 09-10-19, 01:12 AM.
            Originally posted by Babalouie
            Geez we're a bunch of softcocks...we have a 911 and we're obsessing over non-functional ducts and indicator colours

            Comment


              #7
              We have a GU with the RD28 and manual box. It's the nopics car, so it's pretty much stock and just chugs around. It's not fast, but not painfully slow once you get up it. Seems to get spot on 14L/100km no matter how it's driven. Also leaves just enough black smoke taking off from the lights if you try hard enough.
              I'm not straight outta Compton, I'm straight out the trailer.

              Comment


                #8
                one other newb question for you long termers. Fitting a GQ with GU diffs. Im assuming its not a bolt in affair. Cut off and transfer over GQ brackets to GU diffs? driveshaft flanges bolt on?
                RB26......................Again

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by fly510 View Post
                  one other newb question for you long termers. Fitting a GQ with GU diffs. Im assuming its not a bolt in affair. Cut off and transfer over GQ brackets to GU diffs? driveshaft flanges bolt on?
                  Mine bolted straight in, no cutting o welding required. I used my diff centres and swapped to a GU steering box at the same time as the diffs.
                  Ban low performance drivers not high performance cars

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have a td42 GU which I've converted to series 4 as it's not leaving my hands any time soon. Historic rego is the only reason to buy a GQ, as GU is a far nicer car.

                    Mine just has the normal mods, but is reliable, goes well enough (no idea how a tb48 kept up with a modded td42, the td42 must have been poorly done), economy is good enough, although worse with the 4.3's then the 3.9's, and has required very little maintenance.

                    If it ever needed replacing it would be with either a series 4 tb48 or another td42 provided either had been modded correctly. But to be fair, the fuel range of touring with a diesel is so much better than a petrol that's it's worth the outlay.

                    Mine gets 11-13l normal driving, 14-15l loaded for touring and never more 20l in the hardest conditions (beach, desert, 4wding, towing, etc)
                    Last edited by nine2nine; 16-10-19, 09:29 PM.

                    Projects:
                    '90 2jz-gte 929
                    '02 twin-locked TD42 GU Patrol

                    Comment


                      #11
                      some additional context to my original post in terms of what im looking to achieve. This vehicle would only ever be a project and a weekender, not something i'd like to use as a long term tourer. tow dirt bikes and take away on boys weekends. I'm thinking about looking around to find a decent petrol GQ and getting it onto historic rego. then im considering an LS 6L & 6L80, GU diffs and a small lift.
                      RB26......................Again

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by nine2nine View Post
                        I have a td42 GU which I've converted to series 4 as it's not leaving my hands any time soon. Historic rego is the only reason to buy a GQ, as GU is a far nicer car.

                        Mine just has the normal mods, but is reliable, goes well enough (no idea how a tb48 kept up with a modded td42, the td42 must have been poorly done), economy is good enough, although worse with the 4.3's then the 3.9's, and has required very little maintenance.

                        If it ever needed replacing it would be with either a series 4 tb48 or another td42 provided either had been modded correctly. But to be fair, the fuel range of touring with a diesel is so much better than a petrol that's it's worth the outlay.

                        Mine gets 11-13l normal driving, 14-15l loaded for touring and never more 20l in the hardest conditions (beach, desert, 4wding, towing, etc)

                        I was the opposite, I am surprised a 12mm pump TD42 kept up with the stock TB48, it must have been modded very well.
                        Originally posted by Babalouie
                        Geez we're a bunch of softcocks...we have a 911 and we're obsessing over non-functional ducts and indicator colours

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Looked at these briefly before buying the jack however as my usage (daily) was different to your intended use not all comments will apply. If i was in your shoes id honestly go petrol; purchase price is much, much cheaper and there are plenty of petrol Ti floating around for reasonable coin. TB42 are drug money down here although could be just becoz melbourne tax.

                          I was basically left with the choice of the ZD30 or RD28 - heard too many horror stories for the zds so that ruled that out. One drive of an RD28 was enough to convince me otherwise....gutless is an understatement, the cunts fall off boost between 1st and 2nd gear and are ridiculously slow. Supposedly they do heads also.
                          1978 Gemini Sedan - Powered by i change my mind every week
                          1980 Gemini Sedan
                          1992 Land Rover Discovery 200TDI

                          Comment


                            #14
                            GUs are a billion times more comfortable than GQs. And a basic GU are a similar price to an unfucked GQ these days.

                            TB45s are the go on a budget. They go forever, even on gas. Just gotta keep the valve adjustment on them.

                            RE4s are strong as. Some of the guys doing barra conversions are running them behind lightly modded turbos and they are holding in there.
                            Originally posted by Rdyno
                            70ynu has to be the most retarded cunt here. "Help me please" me "you need to remove your head" him "fuck off cunt I'm to lazy fuck off out of my thread you told me to do something I don't want to do so you're a cunt fuck off can some one please tell me an easier way???"
                            Originally posted by Tripper
                            Its a tight battle between you and rogercordia for the most retarded member on here, thou i think you have it by 5 window licks

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I quite like the RD28 for light duty but they punish owners for lack of cooling system maintenance and the balancer can come loose and chew up the crank. The really slow ones probably have a stuck EGR valve.

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