Cordless rattle guns and drills that aren't shit?

[Reedy]

So thanks to the amount of time I spend on the internet I am turning into more of a lazy ADD child with every passing day. Since I can't be fucked cracking my own wheel nuts anymore i've started looking around for a decent little cordless rattle gun to make changing wheels a little easier now that I am swapping to semi slicks at track days. Currently I am just using a breaker bar and cordless drill with a socket attachment to crack and get the nuts off a bit quicker but I want to fuck off the breaker bar and do things faster with just the gun and torque wrench to tighten.

If a cordless drill could crack the nuts itself then that would be perfect but I don't know if there are any out there that can do it. So a rattle gun might be necessary but I don't want to spend huge money on something I only have for one purpose. I would be more open to the idea of spending big on a cordless drill tho cause I kinda want a better one anyway.

tl:dr
1. Has anyone got a cordless drill (w/chuck & clutch) that can crack wheel nuts?
Or
2. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive cordless rattle gun that will do the job? Supercheap have a 12V corded one that was priced about right and that might end up being the best option but i'd like to look around a little more and see what battery powered ones can be got for first.

[snavy]

Don't trust the rated torque of impact wrenches. My first impact was a ryobi 1/2 inch drive and it was rated at 250nm. Total crap could not even undo a wheel nut.

[Reedy]

Duly noted, that's the kind of stuff I want to know about. The ones I were looking at today had those figures written down (Bosch one said 340Nm from memory) but i'd like to hear from people that have used them. Stuff like that Ozito shit you can buy at bunnings I wouldn't touch but there are a couple of budget brands out there that will probably do what I need just fine, I don't need a tradies setup but I do want something that will last more than 1 use.

[Slides]

If a drill could crack them without an impact mechanism you wouldn't be steering the car for a while afterwards.

Probably doesn't help you much due to cost, but I know the snap-on ones go for years in a workshop environment, you might find you can pick one up second-hand from someone who is looking at a different career direction or a workshop being liquidated.

[myliberty]

Ryobi was your problem.

I've sheared off a wheel stud with my makita 450.

[nelsonian101]

When I change wheels at the track, after the car is jacked up, I just use a cheap ass cordless drill with an adapter to fit whatever the wheel nut size is. Usually 19mm or 21mm for me.

Before I jack the car up, I just loosen the wheel nuts with a strong socket.

Then tighten with the socket again quickly when on the ground.

[FIVETEN]

Makita! the 18v ltx range! They are the business!

[Reedy]

When I change wheels at the track, after the car is jacked up, I just use a cheap ass cordless drill with an adapter to fit whatever the wheel nut size is. Usually 19mm or 21mm for me.

Before I jack the car up, I just loosen the wheel nuts with a strong socket.

Then tighten with the socket again quickly when on the ground.

That's exactly what I am doing at the moment. I just want to cut out one of those steps to make things a little easier.

[nelsonian101]

Sorry, didn't read the first post fully.
What I do is only change the rears (which are illegal grooved slicks) at the track becasue I am lazy. For the trip to the circuit, I put road legal semi's on the day before when I change my front brake pads and camber adjustments etc.

[10sec rx7]

I've got 2 snap on ones... They are about the only good tool snap on makes,

[Terribleone]

True that. Ive had my 1/2" Snap On electric gun for about 4 years now and it gets used all day 5 days a week. Its more or less fucked now. Been dropped and kicked thousands of times but still does its job. Ill probably just send it in for a service/whatever they do and a couple fresh batteries and it'll go another few years.

[Blow]

How long do the batteries last before they need charging with the strap on ones? I have a smallish snap on cordless drill and battery life is shithouse between charges.

[Reedy]

A 300Nm cordless power drill with switchable impact function, keyless chuck and variable clutch. Who makes them? Am I dreamin`?

[BigMuz]

Makita entry level; 230nm li ion.

http://www.makita.com.au/products/lx...wrench?Prodid=

Makita Pro; 440nm

http://www.makita.com.au/products/po...nch?Prodid=120

Bosch entry level; 180Nm but tiny.

http://www.bosch-pt.com.au/papocs-au...1253/index.htm

Bosch Pro 650Nm;

Cordless 18v Li Ion HT GDS18V-LIHTSkin Only

http://www.bosch-pt.com.au/papocs-au...5596/index.htm

We sell this one to semi trailer workshops. They still generally have to crack the nuts with a huge bar but the big 3/4 drive pneumatics barely looseen them anyway and these cordless tools are tough as nails and you don't have to drag air lines around.

Email me on our website for a deal of the century on any of these tools;

http://cdaets.com.au/Bosch-Power-Tools

http://cdaets.com.au/Makita-Power-Tools

http://cdaets.com.au/index.php?route...mation/contact

Mention pf.

[BigMuz]

The new bosch and makita li-ion batteries last longer than it takes to charge the other battery so it's kind of a moot point.

If you haven't used one yet have a go. You'll be genuinely shocked at how hard they go and for how long.