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    Who is it on here who does car detailing? FLI-something?

    Anyone got a mobile number they can PM me?

    Also interest in getting some wheels repaired and re powder coated. Sydney based if any suggestions.

    Comment


      Originally posted by Aaron View Post

      Spray on is best considered a pretty durable sealant, the bottles are coatings. I would say using a retail spray is fine if you are using it fortnightly/monthly. The coatings still need to be washed but obviously less effort required.

      I suppose you could approach one of the retail sprays a bit more like a pro product by moving to a wipe on evenly, cure for xx time then buff level, and repeat the process a couple of times. It probably would be surprisingly resilient compared to the spray-wipe-buff application of the same.

      Most Youtube demos of the retail sprays show them tapering off the protection/effect in about a month when in a shitty US winter outdoor situation.
      I'd agree with this, if it was a daily or something really nice and you had the $$$ to do it, get the proper stuff done by a pro.

      But for my purposes of a once a week hill run then back in the garage type car, the spray on wipe off store bought stuff is pretty good. I'm looking at the car now and after the rain I drove through yesterday, it's looking pretty mint! It's cheap, easy to do and worth a shot I suppose. I've found less is more with these products too, a bottle will last ages.

      Comment


        Originally posted by ifuckingloveCUM!!! View Post
        Who is it on here who does car detailing? FLI-something?

        Anyone got a mobile number they can PM me?

        Also interest in getting some wheels repaired and re powder coated. Sydney based if any suggestions.
        FLI355, He does awesome work.

        https://performanceforums.com/forums/member/86-fli355

        https://www.facebook.com/CAD-Automot...70442556314650

        Comment


          https://youtu.be/5XnY-exrfGw

          This is a fairly typical long term “real world” sample of the (US Market) Retail spray Ceramics.

          I 100% can agree with the findings this guy has for a lot of them having used them on a few tests myself.

          The Carpro Reload I use because I look after a few CQuartz coated cars, and it’s much better under that use case, but otherwise it’s no better than any decent non-ceramic. Their pro-sumer stuff seems to be showing it’s age but it is easy to work with.

          CMX seems to be a good thing, like most Mothers stuff it’s slightly over marketed but does the job fine.

          Shine Armour and F11 are both snake oil just like their marketing suggests they would be.

          Turtle Wax stuff is a bit meh, but they also divide their range so much (like Meguiars) that it can be hard to match the outcome to expectation.

          Additionally P&S Beadmaker or even Bowdens Bead Machine would be about mid-pack in this comparison. Even good old Chemical Guys v07 can beat some of the spray Ceramics for 0-60 day performance.

          The real benefit is when you can buy this stuff at 20-35% discount, cost wise if you enjoy cleaning your car etc you will always be ahead of a pro coating AND nearly everyone that seems your car will not know the difference.
          ---
          Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

          Comment


            Originally posted by ifuckingloveCUM!!! View Post
            Who is it on here who does car detailing? FLI-something?

            Anyone got a mobile number they can PM me?

            Also interest in getting some wheels repaired and re powder coated. Sydney based if any suggestions.
            Thats me. Details on my facebook page below mate.
            CAD Automotive Paint Correction, like us on the faceballs. Discounts on all detailing and ceramic coatings for PF members

            Comment


              What's a reasonable price range and products I should look out for when getting paint correction and ceramic coating?

              I don't really know if the car needs lots of prep before throwing the stuff on - new to ceramic coatings :D
              Jason Broadhurst

              Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

              Comment


                watch the ammo NYC tutorials on YouTube
                wash the car, you can inspect the paint for scratches/swirls
                get a plastic bag and put it on your hand and run your hand over the paintwork - if you can feel chunks it needs a clay bar and/or iron remover
                if you use a clay bar you need to machine polish the marks/scratches it leaves
                there are loads of different products and systems for ceramic coatings, if you want something beginner level something like Gyeon Can Coat and the pre-cleaner Gyeon Prep is a good start.

                Comment


                  gyeon trim is good shit for the exterior black plastics and headlights too

                  303 aerospace spray for interior plastics.

                  Oo___oO

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Jason Broadhurst View Post
                    What's a reasonable price range and products I should look out for when getting paint correction and ceramic coating?

                    I don't really know if the car needs lots of prep before throwing the stuff on - new to ceramic coatings :D
                    As above, there’s a “look” that clear coat gets when it has a heap of super fine markings when hit with directional light, yes that shows up swirls and stuff too, but a general lack of clarity in the colour is also evident. Some metallic colours will lose the sparkle of the metallic because the light reflecting of the flakes gets refracted? by the surface damage. Often a fine buff with a swirl reducer is all a car needs to be very very presentable despite having swirls or some marring under close examination.

                    If you’re getting it done for $$ then expect the shop to be able to walk you through the process, how they will clean/decontaminate the paintwork. They should be able to describe how far they will machine it, if you want it corrected to have no visible swirls under close examination they should be talking about how many stages they will go through, and be talking about measuring paint thickness, or managing the loss of thickness through using different grades of compound.

                    Lastly the application and curing process. Some products like to cure with UV, others like IR warmth, and many will air cure just fine. There’s a recoat window - so some products recommend two coats while some shops will base coat with one product and top coat with another to give a different reflectivity or protection combination.

                    Ongoing maintenance requirement should be discussed up front, including what products should and shouldn’t be used.
                    For example a lot of retail liquid waxes have a shit-ton of solvents that will degrade even the most awesome coatings. Other products will reduce the hydrophobic nature which is what gives Coated cars that “easy clean” and “dirt doesn’t stick” look.

                    You can get a decent coating applied with proper surface prep in a full day of work, and you should expect to pay a pro a decent amount for that full day of work. Some may want two days to allow for cure times and stuff and that’s also fine. Some products have a “no water for 12 hour” cure and the shop may want to hold the car for that period just to make sure the coating reaches its full cure correctly.
                    ---
                    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                    Comment


                      I mean to pay someone to do it.

                      I've seen prices vary from $2000 to $700 and have never done the pepsi challenge on the results.
                      Jason Broadhurst

                      Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Aaron View Post

                        Spray on is best considered a pretty durable sealant, the bottles are coatings. I would say using a retail spray is fine if you are using it fortnightly/monthly. The coatings still need to be washed but obviously less effort required.

                        I suppose you could approach one of the retail sprays a bit more like a pro product by moving to a wipe on evenly, cure for xx time then buff level, and repeat the process a couple of times. It probably would be surprisingly resilient compared to the spray-wipe-buff application of the same.

                        Most Youtube demos of the retail sprays show them tapering off the protection/effect in about a month when in a shitty US winter outdoor situation.
                        Which retail spray on works well? Thinking about doing that for our whitegoods cars.
                        Chris
                        ------
                        The new nugget
                        I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

                        Comment


                          Work mate went along to a day (organized by the Ferrari owners club) at some fancy panel beaters here in Brisbane which is the certified Ferrari repair agent. Reckons they were dead against Ceramic coat because of how difficult it is to work with because you have to try and strip it off the surrounding panels if you need to respray one so that you can colour match correctly and they and their detailer recommended against it. To my mind that is kind of the point, if it's a fucking pain to remove it means it's doing what it's meant to. It's like saying CF is a shit material to build a car from because it's a bitch to repair and you can't just smash it back into shape and hide some sins with bog.

                          Comment


                            ^ Theres plenty of professional detailers who will say that coatings have a set role and place in the market, and not on exotics or enthusiast cars. Yet here in Canberra there’s one place going nuts for coating and PPFing (same drawbacks) exotics because well there’s a shit ton of money in it.

                            Heck I won’t coat our 2001 MX5 that does sweet fuck all kms and doesn’t go out in the rain, but have the stuff slathered all over my shitter Fiesta. The Fiesta lives outside and gets left in various unsavoury places where things happen. Having a more resilient and easier to maintain finish is great.

                            The “quality” of Ferrari paint is so freaking variable anyway and I’ve seen some cars barely make it past a couple of “corrections” before the paints starting to show patching where it was too thin from the factory, yet 10cm to left/right it’s off the charts thick.
                            ---
                            Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Jason Broadhurst View Post
                              I mean to pay someone to do it.

                              I've seen prices vary from $2000 to $700 and have never done the pepsi challenge on the results.
                              I've used Solar Style in Coorparoo a few times. They decontaminate the paint, do a single stage correction and apply the ceramic over night for it to cure. They even give you a free hire car, They do great work. They do packages on ceramic and tinting at the same time so you get a discount if getting both done at the same time. The last 2 cars I got were $1195 for the ceramic part of it including wheel faces or $1495 with the awesome Rayno S9 ceramic tint added on.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Jason Broadhurst View Post
                                I mean to pay someone to do it.

                                I've seen prices vary from $2000 to $700 and have never done the pepsi challenge on the results.
                                I'm getting the Yaris done at Deluxe Detail in a week or so. Same kind of deal as Solar Style that Gussy mentioned except don't do tinting.
                                I survived the patio flooding catastrophe of 2012.

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