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  • nastysven
    replied
    cheers man. I'll live with the 'far from good, but good from afar' untill next year when i do the interior re trim. (year to year budget on the re-furb). i'I cant spend my holidays on travel, so I'll spend it on this shit heap.

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  • Aaron
    replied
    Originally posted by nastysven View Post

    Cheers.

    So full resto, or I've done my dosh?
    Resto. Depending on the finish you want it’s just a strip, a quick machine or polish of the spokes, and the repainting.

    Functionally they’re fine now, but it’s like anything, once there’s a path under the paint/clear that genie is not going back into the bottle.

    if you get an agent under the clear that eats aluminium then it’s going to party down hard!

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  • nastysven
    replied
    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    Mr Sven. That’s the clear coat on those wheels over the machines finish failing. They are - for the purposes of a detailing discussion - done

    If you start using either acid, non-acid, caustic, jizz or spit on them it will work into those little wormy areas and start making them worse, if it’s real bad they’ll corrode the alloy rather than just discolouring it.
    Cheers.

    So full resto, or I've done my dosh?

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  • Aaron
    replied
    Originally posted by Spammy View Post
    Any tips on how to detail the engine bay? Doesn't have to be show car quality, just want to remove the film of fine dust on everything.
    If you snow-foam you can do it with a drier mix (thicker foam) and just hose off without being a dumb idiot when it comes to putting water pressure into electrical connectors. Also stick some rags in the valley above the coils (assuming two cam) before you start as you don’t want water in the plug wells.

    Aggitate with a softish brush if you’re inclined.

    Then cloths and plastic/vinyl/rubber spray to do the hoses and plastics. One thing I used to do was wet soak everything in the vinyl spray. Leave it for a few hours. Then go back and mist and wipe up excess and even out coverage.

    You’ll also find that some tyre shines/cleaners that contain cleaning agents rather than just silicone, will work great on hoses and stuff. A squirt and brushing/rubbing like you do on the tyres.

    Once you’re at a clean point use a spray sealant on all the painted surfaces and it’ll stay cleaner longer.

    The moment you’re done fire it up and get it warm for a bit. You can always touch up the products, but it’s best to get moisture evaporating out of the harnesses and nooks and crannies sooner rather than later.

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  • Aaron
    replied
    Mr Sven. That’s the clear coat on those wheels over the machines finish failing. They are - for the purposes of a detailing discussion - done

    If you start using either acid, non-acid, caustic, jizz or spit on them it will work into those little wormy areas and start making them worse, if it’s real bad they’ll corrode the alloy rather than just discolouring it.

    Last edited by Aaron; 24-07-21, 09:56 PM.

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  • Mr Ree
    replied
    Originally posted by kgc10-R View Post

    So other than the spray detailer, clean brush and rags, NO product as such?
    Its a case by case basis really

    If its an old oily car from decades ago, then you will surely need some degreaser and a bit of elbow grease, but for newer cars, they typically just get dusty, so arent too tough to bring back to new.

    I have a dash and trim restorer that i use for for any under bonnet plastics, airbox, hoses, weatherstrips, and the windscreen wiper cowl etc, just to give it that factory fresh appearance

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  • kgc10-R
    replied
    Originally posted by Mr Ree View Post

    I did the engine bay of a friends (nopics) Mazda Demio this afternoon.

    It was like yours...completely covered in a fine dust, so rather than involve excessive amounts of water by using a pressure washer. I just got a nice soft clean 1" wide paint brush, and gave everything a brush off, and to loosen anything stubborn from in the crevasses and corners etc.

    Then I used an old rag to wipe down anything with an oily residue first, before using clean cloths and spray detailer and giving everything a good once over.

    Depends how fussy you want to get, but I spent about an hour on it and it looks like new now
    So other than the spray detailer, clean brush and rags, NO product as such?

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  • Mr Ree
    replied
    Originally posted by Spammy View Post
    Any tips on how to detail the engine bay? Doesn't have to be show car quality, just want to remove the film of fine dust on everything.
    I did the engine bay of a friends (nopics) Mazda Demio this afternoon.

    It was like yours...completely covered in a fine dust, so rather than involve excessive amounts of water by using a pressure washer. I just got a nice soft clean 1" wide paint brush, and gave everything a brush off, and to loosen anything stubborn from in the crevasses and corners etc.

    Then I used an old rag to wipe down anything with an oily residue first, before using clean cloths and spray detailer and giving everything a good once over.

    Depends how fussy you want to get, but I spent about an hour on it and it looks like new now

    Leave a comment:


  • nastysven
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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  • nastysven
    replied
    SO I have some rims to tidy up.

    Autosol was suggested. Can you use it with an electric polisher?

    Click image for larger version

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  • Spammy
    replied
    Any tips on how to detail the engine bay? Doesn't have to be show car quality, just want to remove the film of fine dust on everything.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stix Zadinia
    replied
    sealants and wax are two different things.
    waxes are organic and will wear off quickly
    sealants will last 6-12 months when applied as per the instructions

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  • smellytofu
    replied
    I used to spend a solid time slapping on Fusso coat which gave me great results but since discovering stuff like seal n shine and Turtle wax hybrid solution, it’s been my only thing to put on the car however using my leaf blower to blow dry the car, it doesn’t blow off as easily than when I had Fusso coat.

    Do paste sealant still have its place or spray wax does the same thing with much less elbow grease?

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron
    replied
    Originally posted by smellytofu View Post
    What's everyone's tips on keeping unpainted plastic black? Doing a YouTube research, apparently using ceramic coating restores unpainted plastic. Has anyone used ceramic coating to maintain the colour?
    Yes I do.

    But it’s not a 100% certainty as different brands and blends of ceramic will do better than others on different trims and brands/models of cars.

    if you have a lot of plastic to cover, then get the “plastic version” from your chosen specialist brand. If it’s just odd bits around the car just use whatever you’re putting over the bodywork. The age and condition of the plastics will play into it.

    Ive found for example the CQuartz I used on the Fiesta has darkened the faded stuff quite a bit, but using a dye product like Solution Finish or Mr Black would have been better for blacking the plastics back to new. It’s probably that using one of those dyes, then a curing time later using a ceramic over that could be a decent approach.

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  • timtx5
    replied
    Originally posted by Stix Zadinia View Post

    you should wait at least 6 weeks after new paint for the paint to outgas, before putting film on

    and there's really only two certified places in Brisbane that do XPEL, and one buys their film from the other.
    The trip from England is taking the car about 3 months so should be good there.
    I called the detailing studio in murrarie just because they seemed relatively professional. He seemed to have all the right answers to questions I was asking.

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