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Doing some stupid shit to an old datsun head

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    Ok, just flowed the revised intake port & the 1/2 shafted TB's:

    Bare head:

    .1 - 57
    .2 - 115
    .3 - 150
    .4 - 181
    .5 - 214
    .55 - 224
    .6 - 234
    .65 - 236
    .7 - 238

    Above .700" it goes turbulent again, but not as bad, only backs up 5cfm or so - calling it good.

    1/2 shafted TB's have improved matters with the intake on - tops out at 227cfm now, which is enough.

    Out of interest I moved the head over on the bore adaptor to see what a larger bore would do - saw 245cfm @ .700" lift, with the chamber optimised for the larger bore I reckon we'd see closer to 250cfm - enough to make 290+hp.

    I can see a big bore short stroke short motor in the future........

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      Can't wait to see this engine on the dyno
      Richard's DatsunZ lappin LakesidZ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47OSh...&feature=g-upl

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        On course for 260HP, the dyno will let us know. Fantastic job.

        Really keen to see it on a 89mm bore x 92mm stroke, easier to cram the Z22 crank into the L20B block, still gets you ~2.3L displacement.

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          I'm actually thinking a 1/2 grout fill on the block & 90mm bore, with an L18 crank that'd give 1.984L - under the 2L class limit & able to fully utilise the 45mm valve.

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            I hope you do a book one day TK because I'd buy it

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              Please video it on the engine dyno.
              Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

              My Italian 510

              Comment


                Originally posted by TK View Post
                I'm actually thinking a 1/2 grout fill on the block & 90mm bore, with an L18 crank that'd give 1.984L - under the 2L class limit & able to fully utilise the 45mm valve.
                Make sure its the Aussie Block.
                GURU ENGINEERING PTY LTD

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                  You may have mentioned it already but with all that welding on the head doesn't that weaken the metallic properties a ton? If so, do you do a hardening process on it?

                  What size valves are you running in this head? We've just flowed another i4 head (non Datto) with excellent results too but we have larger valves than you can fit.
                  http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/12/...lenge-accepted

                  Comment


                    On a 90mm bore and moving the head over I think you should be able to stuff a 48mm valve in there, but would be a lot of welding down in deep holes to fill the guide hole and move it over, or offset guides. Has potential, but still isn't as much valve as I have been taught to want for the bore diameter

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                      Originally posted by Xnke View Post
                      On a 90mm bore and moving the head over I think you should be able to stuff a 48mm valve in there, but would be welding down in deep holes to fill the guide hole and move it over, or offset guides. Has potential, but still isn't as much valve as I have been taught to want for the bore diameter
                      just use offset valves

                      Another quick OT Q, is the 2JZ head readily improved by welding and reshaping? Read (on pf i think) that they aren't very well designed compared to an rb26 etc.

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                        Be careful trying for a 90mm bore. Our 2.4l L20 is an 89mm bore and we went through 6 bare blocks until we found one suitable (this was after a previous cracked bore).

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                          Sleeves should fix that issue
                          Originally posted by Rdyno
                          70ynu has to be the most retarded cunt here. "Help me please" me "you need to remove your head" him "fuck off cunt I'm to lazy fuck off out of my thread you told me to do something I don't want to do so you're a cunt fuck off can some one please tell me an easier way???"
                          Originally posted by Tripper
                          Its a tight battle between you and rogercordia for the most retarded member on here, thou i think you have it by 5 window licks

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Bueller View Post
                            Sleeves and cubic dollars should fix that issue
                            Fixed

                            Comment


                              Sonic test, find a good block, grout fill to support thin bores & you don't have a problem.
                              Sleeves take too much rigidity out of the block, best to avoid more than 1 sleeve in a 4 banger block if possible.

                              With a 1/2 grout fill you can go down to around 3mm wall thickness on the bores with no problem, even 2.5mm in small sections is ok - better than sleeving.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Supashake View Post
                                Make sure its the Aussie Block.
                                ie 200b/720/910?

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