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    Needs preload. Loose is bad.
    2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
    2007 KTM 250 SX

    Originally posted by Monza
    I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

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      is blownhemi Scotty? Any advice considering you've just done it on broadly the same car?

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        i was taught a slight bit of pre-load and then recheck again after 100kms. It was taught by feel and would kind of be described in words as the weight of the ratchet falling into your hand.

        it would mean nothing to the forum to try and prove my teachers credentials or whether i am correct but i trust who taught me and thats what i go with.
        www.holditflat.com

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          Yeah, about that. Or when the retaining nut just starts to pick up and turn the washer as you tighten it. It really is a feel and experience thing. You certainly can't really assign a torque setting to it.

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            i should also say that i tighten the nut so everything is properly seated first, give the hub a wobble or a turn, then back it off and do the final preload

            www.holditflat.com

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              Dogsballs should know.
              .... because every driver experiences the destructive potential of the effortless surge of power available through the smallest of body movements.

              Dr Hoon
              .

              DrNick is king!!!! No, Mark Webber is now! Long live the king!... hold on a minute mate, Ricci is in charge now

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                It'll be fine as it is.

                Jack it back up and check for any wobbles if you're worried, but the required torque is minimal (different car but similar setup, my old Volvo 760 had it spec'd in the factory manual at 1.5Nm).
                Last edited by andy_wk; 01-07-20, 01:02 PM.

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                  I snug the nut up, then spin the wheel 10-20 times and then check for movement. If yes, snug it up a little more. You can feel if it's too tight as the wheel doesnt' spin as free. Considering most of my 20 plus years of driving has been in pre 80's cars with this type of wheel bearing and I've had zero issues, I believe the instructions are correct.
                  Originally posted by doctorpat
                  It's not that every person with the coof spreads it to 8 people. It's that 50 people spread it to nobody, 40 spread it to their nopix and kids, 5 spread it to nopix, kids, neighbour, and mate that came over to watch the footy, and the last five went to a secret illegal rave, gave it to 17 people in the mosh pit, then went to an underground hairdresser, gave it to 22 people there, then went and drank a coffee on the beach while hugging and kissing another 52 people, and then needed to look at paint colours at bunnings, before going to work as a checkoutchick at Aldi.

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                    Copper/Brass exhaust manifold nuts?

                    Whats the magic with switching to those compared to what the factory stick on?
                    ---
                    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                      Originally posted by Aaron View Post
                      Copper/Brass exhaust manifold nuts?

                      Whats the magic with switching to those compared to what the factory stick on?
                      no magic, fiat had been using them since the mid 70's on exhaust manifolds, just use an appropriate anti seize,
                      the idea is that the nut is sacrificial, in that it will just strip off the stud if it seizes/picks up versus SS/mild steel nuts which can pick up on the thread and lock.
                      the fiat ones where twice the depth of the normal 8mm nuts, so you could tighten them up to a reasonable torque.

                      think of them as a consumable rather than reusable,

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                        BMC used brass nuts on the inlet and exhaust manifold of the proper Mini, they were longer than usual but anti seize wasn't used. They were reusable but the end working on the manifold would flare slightly meaning they had to be refitted in the same orientation as you couldn't get a spanner over the flared end.

                        They are the business, I still use them on the exhaust side of my turbos. On the cylinder head side I use a K nut of some sort and just accept that things sometimes go to shit.
                        " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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                          Cool. Will see if I can get a set to suit. Current header nuts look pretty secondhand so not looking forward to try to remove them.
                          ---
                          Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                            Originally posted by Aaron View Post
                            Cool. Will see if I can get a set to suit. Current header nuts look pretty secondhand so not looking forward to try to remove them.
                            In my (admittedly limited to one engine-type for the last 15 years) experience, when they don't let go you end-up taking the stud out instead, you look at it for 15 seconds wondering how you're going to get it off the stud now that the stud ain't stuck in the head ... and then you run up to the local car-parts joint to grab some replacement studs.
                            Soft roaders represent an excellent compromise between the needs of the hardcore 4x4 user and the convenience of a city hatchback. Its clear to see why they have become so popular in todays society.

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                              Exactly what I think will happen and I’d rather not be paying $7.50 a stud because I didn’t plan ahead. Will plan to do a test undo before I commit
                              ---
                              Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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                                Centre caps (plastic) on my 2008 WRX daily have the paint flaking off. What the hotness in matching the colour? is there a code to be found? The wheels themselves are immaculate bar the centre caps

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