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    Originally posted by takai View Post

    Pretty sure 051 used to be Diamond White Pearl and warm Silver Metallic

    Edit, as per the same document as the tripper link..... how does that even work, a non feral tripper link!
    Order a small sample. will spray it on a card but i believe you're right

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      Originally posted by Do the safety dance. View Post

      Same.

      I'm actually on the look out for one for a mate, if anyone comes across one.
      Benny at BCW has one of the Nissan Utes. Well he did a few months ago, not sure if he still does. It looked pretty clean and was unreg, he was going to use it for a project but had gone off that idea.

      Originally posted by Rdyno
      It's fucking storytime with Rdyno cunt shut the fuck up and fuck off.

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        I wonder what result you’d get if you sent the ViN to Ford to get the “as built” sheet on one of those Nissan Utes?

        Would be even funnier if some tragic had nicely restored one thinking it was a Ford, then gets the Build doc and discovers it’s a Nissan

        ---
        Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

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          I need to buy a 3 port fuel pressure reg to convert my aw11 to a dead head system for the 2gr I'm putting in, there are so many to choose from how do I find one that's not shit?

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            Talking about Nissan/Ford, there's a Maverick XLT around the corner that I've been keen on, and it's not black. And today I saw an amazingly tidy black XLT and a well kitted out white XLT.

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              Have a carbon fibre/fibre glass boot painted in blue and I need to remove the paint to have it repainted white to match my car. Should I use soda media and blast it since I got a gun and 20kg of media that's 10 years old.

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                How hard is it to change a set of SBC heads? I've removed/replaced heads on 4cyl ohc stuff before but never on a pushrod thing and I'm oddly intimidated about weird stuff like getting pushrod lengths right...

                Specific scenario: 350 truck motor, stock except cam and carb, hoping to remove heads, ignore bottom end, bolt on new aftermarket off the shelf assembled heads and bump compression and improve flow, all without removing the engine, and hopefully feel like I haven't wasted my time at the end of it.
                Last edited by Fraud; 02-11-20, 08:20 AM.
                Originally posted by myshortyboomba
                I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

                you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

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                  Originally posted by kedderz View Post
                  I need to buy a 3 port fuel pressure reg to convert my aw11 to a dead head system for the 2gr I'm putting in, there are so many to choose from how do I find one that's not shit?
                  Turbosmart stuff seems pretty decent.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by Fraud View Post
                    How hard is it to change a set of SBC heads? I've removed/replaced heads on 4cyl ohc stuff before but never on a pushrod thing and I'm oddly intimidated about weird stuff like getting pushrod lengths right...

                    Specific scenario: 350 truck motor, stock except cam and carb, hoping to remove heads, ignore bottom end, bolt on new aftermarket off the shelf assembled heads and bump compression and improve flow, all without removing the engine, and hopefully feel like I haven't wasted my time at the end of it.
                    Firstly, what car/truck is it in. Space helps.

                    If it's a SBC (non LS) I'd go with a complete combo from Edelbrock. You get a power up package that includes the right cam, push rods, inlet, fully assembled heads and if you want, even the carb and airfilter. -> https://www.edelbrock.com/power-package-top-end-kits

                    Summit racing says you're looking at about $1400 plus state tax as a starting price
                    Sent from my shed, trapped under a collapsed QuickJack, via Tapatalk

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                      Thermo fans - specifically, really low profile/slimline ones. Are there any any OEM puller fans in 10-12" range that are around 60mm thick? Ive got max 60mm between radiator core and snout of water pump. Tried a Chrysler Neon one that looked really thin but got caught out by the fact the fan protrudes 10mm UNDER the shroud [yeah i know, rookie fuck up]. Anything spring to mind? Would rather OEM because they are pretty much no-bullshit in terms of CFM they can move plus its going to be a hell of a lot cheaper than forking out for a Maradyne or SPAL. MUST be a puller fan because...reasons.

                      Anything spring to mind?
                      1978 Gemini Sedan - Powered by i change my mind every week
                      1980 Gemini Sedan
                      1992 Land Rover Discovery 200TDI

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                        Originally posted by mizone View Post

                        Firstly, what car/truck is it in. Space helps.

                        If it's a SBC (non LS) I'd go with a complete combo from Edelbrock. You get a power up package that includes the right cam, push rods, inlet, fully assembled heads and if you want, even the carb and airfilter. -> https://www.edelbrock.com/power-package-top-end-kits

                        Summit racing says you're looking at about $1400 plus state tax as a starting price
                        Edit, I read you post as working on the engine still in the car.
                        Sent from my shed, trapped under a collapsed QuickJack, via Tapatalk

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by mizone View Post

                          Edit, I read you post as working on the engine still in the car.
                          You read correctly. It's a 72 c10, once I get the accessories out of the way there should be heaps of room, although the factory ac stuff might get in the way I guess.

                          I was looking at full top end kits initially, I started trying to talk myself into a hydraulic roller retrofit as part of it and when I did the numbers an LS swap or crate motor started looking like real good value so I gave up, but I'm getting itchy feet again and wouldnt mind some kind of project over the next few months, especially if something comes up on black friday sales.
                          Originally posted by myshortyboomba
                          I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

                          you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

                          Comment


                            To add to the above, I've read that adding new, better sealing heads on an old motor without giving any attention to the bottom end is likely to lead to premature failure of the rings and lots of blowby and/or some other failure.... Truth? Age/mileage of the current motor is unknown as the instrument cluster was swapped out a while back, but it's gonna be ~120k-150k miles...

                            I'm not terribly upset if I do end up needing to give the bottom end some love at some point, I just don't want that in scope right now.

                            Whether I want to go to the trouble of all of this vs an ls swap or crate motor is a whole other thing... But the space I have available for diy type work doesn't really allow for engine cranes and whatnot
                            Originally posted by myshortyboomba
                            I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

                            you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

                            Comment


                              You're in the US, just go to U-Pull-It and grab an iron block 6L and 4L80e for $100 and change it out on a Sunday arvo.

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                                What type of thing do I need to tighten this? A 1/4 inch fits but is there some other type of socket to fit?
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