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    Originally posted by Greg Rust View Post

    Bunnings in the fencing isle and get some 0.8mm stainless wire and wrap a few turns around the shield and twist together.
    Yeah that might be the solution. It's been scraped on something and that's why it's popped out of shape in the middle

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      If the wire doesn't work I'll just open up the join along the whole length as suggested.
      If that doesn't work I guess I'll remove the shield completely and deal with the bit of extra heat

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        Originally posted by takai View Post
        Not quite. After the overall diameter of the housing, like this:
        Click image for larger version

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        I think I've got a mate with one of these so I'll ask him to measure it up. You'll have to wait until Sunday as he works long hrs including Saturdays. Diesel mechanic life..

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          Originally posted by GreatWallGT500 View Post
          I think I've got a mate with one of these so I'll ask him to measure it up. You'll have to wait until Sunday as he works long hrs including Saturdays. Diesel mechanic life..

          Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk
          Yeah no problems. Its not hurry, just something i was thinking about yesterday when another discussion on GT3582s came up.
          Chris
          ------
          The new nugget
          I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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            Originally posted by takai View Post
            One that probably doesnt require a full thread.

            Anyone have a T3/T4 and a Falcon GT3582 lying around? Or even just the GT3582. Interested in the outer diameter of the compressor housing. Can only find wheel diameters not housing diameters.
            I have a GT35R which I think is pretty similar to the Falcon turbos, not sure if it's similar in the dimensions you want though?
            Norbie!

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              Originally posted by Norbie View Post

              I have a GT35R which I think is pretty similar to the Falcon turbos, not sure if it's similar in the dimensions you want though?
              Yeah, that is probably good enough.
              Chris
              ------
              The new nugget
              I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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                Originally posted by takai View Post

                Yeah, that is probably good enough.
                It's hard to get an accurate measurement while it's on the car, but it's something like 185mm.
                Norbie!

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                  Originally posted by Norbie View Post

                  It's hard to get an accurate measurement while it's on the car, but it's something like 185mm.
                  Great, thanks. Sounds similar to the T3/T4. So must just be a smaller exhaust housing on the T3 making it look like a greater size differential. Back to the drawing board.
                  Chris
                  ------
                  The new nugget
                  I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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                    Originally posted by ifuckingloveCUM!!! View Post
                    I’ve got a 2012 Volvo S60/V60 T6 which has some sort of engine mount rattle. Have already replaced the top torque mount between engine and body but it is still there. It is there are low revs but if you give it WOT it goes away but comes back hard when you lift off.

                    Pulled two of the bottom engine/torque mounts off yesterday and they don’t look in great shape so going to replace those.

                    My question is a lot of the mounts have slotted holes where they mount to the engine. Is there a procedure where you preload the engine with some torque using a jack or similar before tightening them up so they are already under some load in the ‘neutral’ position?
                    Generally it's the top torque mount that you already replaced, or the mount below that one, you can usually see if it's sagged with a mirror, or once only I saw one where the bolt for it wasn't centred, and it did actually fix the noise.
                    Originally posted by ALLMTR
                    Yes but more power is the solution, even if lack of power isn't the problem...

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                      Originally posted by S_E View Post

                      Generally it's the top torque mount that you already replaced, or the mount below that one, you can usually see if it's sagged with a mirror, or once only I saw one where the bolt for it wasn't centred, and it did actually fix the noise.
                      Thanks. I ended up ordering the two easily accessible bottom torque/engine mounts from FCP. About $160 delivered. Ordered last Tuesday and they are already through customs here. Will replace those and see how I go.

                      only really leaves that other (round?) mount you mentioned? If the two I bought don’t fix it I will look at that. That is for the help.

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                        Originally posted by ifuckingloveCUM!!! View Post


                        only really leaves that other (round?) mount you mentioned? If the two I bought don’t fix it I will look at that. That is for the help.
                        Yep that's the one
                        Originally posted by ALLMTR
                        Yes but more power is the solution, even if lack of power isn't the problem...

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                          Originally posted by S_E View Post

                          Yep that's the one
                          Replaced the two bottom mounts engine/gbox. Is better but still there. Comes on shifts at low revs... only really leaves the round mount. Looks fine but who knows. Car has 105k km.

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                            I've been using Caltex 98 since I purchased my car new 17 years ago and the car was tuned on this fuel but have a BP that is handy so looking to use BP 98, any difference between these fuels? I'm told that Caltex, BP and Shell all come from the same refinery but just have different additives. Should be no issue swapping, right?

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                              I don't know what the current state of affairs is in Sydney. All 95 is the same* Blends to get it to 98 are different.
                              My tuner straight knew just by looking at my logs, his experience, that I was on Caltex 98. I switched to BP on his advice.

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                                I use a mix of bp, Caltex and 7-11 98 fuels in my cars. I don't notice any difference between fills with the different brands.

                                These are standard cars though.

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