Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Car questions that don't deserve a thread.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Anyone know where you can get round 70mm Led spotlights/highbeams to suit a car?

    Comment


      70mm round highbeam is a strange size, Usually 90mm is the smallest you can get. Hella does a 90mm DOT approved high beam in either halogen or HID, but they're tiny and pretty ordinary by all accounts. I've got the halogen foglight versions on my Mazda, iirc BMW motorcyles offer the driving light versions as an accessory.

      Pretty sure EF/EL XR falcons used a 90mm light module which is pretty easy to find from Narva, Bosch, Hella and Valeo/Cibie

      Comment


        his mob do 70mm med modules for bikes

        https://www.lskelectronics.com/store...XH1-p287275071
        you cant spell advertisements without semen between the tits

        Comment


          Originally posted by HSV Senator View Post
          I've been using Caltex 98 since I purchased my car new 17 years ago and the car was tuned on this fuel but have a BP that is handy so looking to use BP 98, any difference between these fuels? I'm told that Caltex, BP and Shell all come from the same refinery but just have different additives. Should be no issue swapping, right?
          BP 98 is great. Colleague of mine who has spent a lot of time seriously chasing tenths on the track/dyno only uses it, so that's good enough for me.

          Comment


            I have a ~380,000km BA shitter that has been generally neglected and is well on it's way to being run into the ground. Is currently only really driven on a 60km each way trip that is almost all highway.
            The car runs well enough for what it is, but if I run into standstill traffic on the highway (as in stop start, crawling forward slowly etc), after a while it develops a nasty vibration - revs drop below 500, it gets lumpy, surgy and just generally struggles. Once we get going back to highway speed, it goes away and is then fine for the rest of the drive. No trouble at red lights, stop signs etc, it's the extended wait.

            Got caught in a major jam the other night after a crash, would have been 30 minutes + of constant idling. It got so bad I was sure it wasn't going to make it home. Never felt it that bad and it stayed that way for the rest of the night. Felt like it had no power and I could still feel it lurching even when at highway speed. Next time I drive it (a couple of nights later), no issues at all. Smooth, accelerates without issue, happy cruising, at lights, anywhere.

            This thing owes me nothing and will probably be scrapped soon anyway so I'm not really planning to do anything to address this, but am more just curious as to what it's actually doing. Any thoughts?
            BMW E21 Racer

            ATCC & V8SC Results, Data, Statistics and Discussion from 1960 to now

            Comment


              How do those diesel throttle controllers work? Do they somehow bend the 0-5 signal from the accel pedal to the ecu?

              Comment


                Originally posted by leothedrummer View Post
                I have a ~380,000km BA shitter that has been generally neglected and is well on it's way to being run into the ground. Is currently only really driven on a 60km each way trip that is almost all highway.
                The car runs well enough for what it is, but if I run into standstill traffic on the highway (as in stop start, crawling forward slowly etc), after a while it develops a nasty vibration - revs drop below 500, it gets lumpy, surgy and just generally struggles. Once we get going back to highway speed, it goes away and is then fine for the rest of the drive. No trouble at red lights, stop signs etc, it's the extended wait.

                Got caught in a major jam the other night after a crash, would have been 30 minutes + of constant idling. It got so bad I was sure it wasn't going to make it home. Never felt it that bad and it stayed that way for the rest of the night. Felt like it had no power and I could still feel it lurching even when at highway speed. Next time I drive it (a couple of nights later), no issues at all. Smooth, accelerates without issue, happy cruising, at lights, anywhere.

                This thing owes me nothing and will probably be scrapped soon anyway so I'm not really planning to do anything to address this, but am more just curious as to what it's actually doing. Any thoughts?
                Battery voltage / engine fans would be my guess.

                Comment


                  Originally posted by tim510 View Post

                  Battery voltage / engine fans would be my guess.
                  Yeah my first thought was alternator, but it should come back pretty quickly once it gets a few revs though.
                  Last edited by Shonky; 20-04-21, 02:33 PM.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by tim510 View Post
                    How do those diesel throttle controllers work? Do they somehow bend the 0-5 signal from the accel pedal to the ecu?
                    Essentially - yes. Theres no magic to it, it simply plugs in inline to the pedal, so the only thing it can do is alter the pedal input signal. So, for example - when you push 5% throttle, it may actually send a signal of 30% to the ecu.
                    I understand there is a 'better seat of the pants feel' to them, but surely you could just push the pedal further? I'm still perplexed how people think they are getting better fuel economy from them ..........

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by leothedrummer View Post
                      I have a ~380,000km BA shitter that has been generally neglected and is well on it's way to being run into the ground. Is currently only really driven on a 60km each way trip that is almost all highway.
                      The car runs well enough for what it is, but if I run into standstill traffic on the highway (as in stop start, crawling forward slowly etc), after a while it develops a nasty vibration - revs drop below 500, it gets lumpy, surgy and just generally struggles. Once we get going back to highway speed, it goes away and is then fine for the rest of the drive. No trouble at red lights, stop signs etc, it's the extended wait.

                      Got caught in a major jam the other night after a crash, would have been 30 minutes + of constant idling. It got so bad I was sure it wasn't going to make it home. Never felt it that bad and it stayed that way for the rest of the night. Felt like it had no power and I could still feel it lurching even when at highway speed. Next time I drive it (a couple of nights later), no issues at all. Smooth, accelerates without issue, happy cruising, at lights, anywhere.

                      This thing owes me nothing and will probably be scrapped soon anyway so I'm not really planning to do anything to address this, but am more just curious as to what it's actually doing. Any thoughts?
                      Pull the throttle body off and give it a good clean.
                      The TPS could also be on its way out. When you remove it, make sure the engine is nice and hot, the screws are loctited and will snap off if cold.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by irsa76 View Post
                        70mm round highbeam is a strange size, Usually 90mm is the smallest you can get. Hella does a 90mm DOT approved high beam in either halogen or HID, but they're tiny and pretty ordinary by all accounts. I've got the halogen foglight versions on my Mazda, iirc BMW motorcyles offer the driving light versions as an accessory.

                        Pretty sure EF/EL XR falcons used a 90mm light module which is pretty easy to find from Narva, Bosch, Hella and Valeo/Cibie
                        Have a Smartbar on my BA, it has two sets of holes in the bar for lights, 90 and 70mm.
                        Currently running some Narva halogen driving lights (#71810) in the 70mm spot.
                        Hoping to find some LEDs to replace them.
                        Just found Stedi make some 25w LEDs to suit motorcycles which may fit.
                        https://www.stedi.com.au/25-cree-led...pot-light.html

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by vs355 View Post

                          I'm still perplexed how people think they are getting better fuel economy from them ..........
                          People are morons.

                          Comment


                            Re the BA shitter. Check the PCV valve on the rocker cover and also any vacuum hoses for air leaks.
                            2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
                            2007 KTM 250 SX

                            Originally posted by Monza
                            I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by Sturmovik View Post

                              Have a Smartbar on my BA, it has two sets of holes in the bar for lights, 90 and 70mm.
                              Currently running some Narva halogen driving lights (#71810) in the 70mm spot.
                              Hoping to find some LEDs to replace them.
                              Just found Stedi make some 25w LEDs to suit motorcycles which may fit.
                              https://www.stedi.com.au/25-cree-led...pot-light.html
                              Ah yeah. Hella does a 70mm HID spot light as part of the Micro line, I've got the halogen DE foglights which are actually very good, although as I mentioned I've seen mixed comments about the HID driving light versions due to the small size.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by leothedrummer View Post
                                I have a ~380,000km BA shitter that has been generally neglected and is well on it's way to being run into the ground. Is currently only really driven on a 60km each way trip that is almost all highway.
                                The car runs well enough for what it is, but if I run into standstill traffic on the highway (as in stop start, crawling forward slowly etc), after a while it develops a nasty vibration - revs drop below 500, it gets lumpy, surgy and just generally struggles. Once we get going back to highway speed, it goes away and is then fine for the rest of the drive. No trouble at red lights, stop signs etc, it's the extended wait.

                                Got caught in a major jam the other night after a crash, would have been 30 minutes + of constant idling. It got so bad I was sure it wasn't going to make it home. Never felt it that bad and it stayed that way for the rest of the night. Felt like it had no power and I could still feel it lurching even when at highway speed. Next time I drive it (a couple of nights later), no issues at all. Smooth, accelerates without issue, happy cruising, at lights, anywhere.

                                This thing owes me nothing and will probably be scrapped soon anyway so I'm not really planning to do anything to address this, but am more just curious as to what it's actually doing. Any thoughts?
                                Weak spark? Coilpacks are common to replace on these, it might foul plugs in traffic and self-clean on the highway.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X