Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Car questions that don't deserve a thread.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    coolant for sure.

    Comment


      Originally posted by Mr Purple View Post
      If you can run one temperature gauge, what would it be - oil or water?

      I've been pondering this one this morning. BMW has oil temp and it takes a good 10-15 minutes to get to temp, Mini has oil and water, AW11 water only.

      Given my main purpose of looking at the temperature gauge is to see when it's ok to flog it, surely oil would be the more accurate measure for that? The secondary purpose though is 'stop, something's broken' and I'd imagine water temp would be the first warning of that.

      I'm suspicious it probably doesn't make any difference. Just wondering why the manufacturers sometimes use one over the other.
      If you have a modern BMW, it likely doesn't have a coolant temperature gauge because it electronically controls the temperature to suit conditions. Sit in traffic and it will bring it down to around 80C. Get moving on the highway and it will get up in the low 90s. If they had a gauge it would move around too much. Oil temperature should somewhat follow that but I expect it has a longer time constant. They do measure coolant temp and you can usually read it via a hidden menu of some sort.

      E46 M3 manual specifies oil temperature as the one to look at before giving it a go, but then the oil temp gauge is only on M3s in E46s. 10-15 minutes is pretty long. Doesn't need to get to full temp. I think they say 50 or 60C is enough.

      Water temp is fine for major other problems, but doesn't help if you bust a water pipe. Air temperature doesn't read that well.

      I'd run water though over oil if I had to pick one.

      Comment


        I have an M140i - so yep. The funny thing is the oil temp is only viewable on the LCD screen - so by default you have no temp gauges on the dash at all. Given so many manufacturers now artificially stage their temp gauges to read 'cold', 'normal' and 'hot' there's probably no real need for one. My wife's old Tiida just had a 'cold' light and presumably a 'hot' light.

        I think water temp only is right, which is why I've gone that for the Valiant. It just needs to be 'cold, don't flog' or 'too hot, stop flogging'. Everything else is too much information with a decent modern ECU.

        Comment


          Chris
          ------
          The MX5 Noujet (its up market) | The Hilux Complete Nugget
          I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

          Comment


            Followed an X1 BMW and the LH exhaust tip was your typical sooted up black color, RH one was bright chrome.
            Do these run a fake tip?

            Comment


              Originally posted by Sturmovik View Post
              Followed an X1 BMW and the LH exhaust tip was your typical sooted up black color, RH one was bright chrome.
              Do these run a fake tip?
              My E46 with dual outlets has an vacuum controlled exhaust flap to reduce noise level at lower engine speeds and opens at higher revs. The owner may dawdle around never getting stuck into it. A darn good thrashing may help.

              Comment


                Golf Rs all seem to do the same. External tips are always blackened with soot, middle squeaky clean.

                Comment


                  Both is better than none. The absence of a coolant gauge made it hard to diagnose specific symptoms or even suggest I should log it. Spent almost a year chasing phantom power loss with nothing stored on DME nor instant popups on the idrive/OBD. Sometimes, at best I'd "engine fault, reduced power". Sometimes that wouldn't even appear till 5minutes later or nothing at all.
                  Oil is great because by the time the engine is around 90C coolant, oil is still about 50C for me. l I don't flog until it creeps off the minimum mark at 70C. I've always thought the E46 M3 warmup countdown was a bit too eager. No wonder they spin bearings

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by gmx View Post
                    Both is better than none. The absence of a coolant gauge made it hard to diagnose specific symptoms or even suggest I should log it. Spent almost a year chasing phantom power loss with nothing stored on DME nor instant popups on the idrive/OBD. Sometimes, at best I'd "engine fault, reduced power". Sometimes that wouldn't even appear till 5minutes later or nothing at all.
                    Oil is great because by the time the engine is around 90C coolant, oil is still about 50C for me. l I don't flog until it creeps off the minimum mark at 70C. I've always thought the E46 M3 warmup countdown was a bit too eager. No wonder they spin bearings
                    E46 M3 warm-up countdown is based on oil temperature and says "warm" at 60C.

                    Comment


                      Comment


                        S54 is mechanical thermostat only. I was surprised the M54 has DME control.

                        Comment


                          Electric thermostats have been around for a while. I think Bosch has been an OEM supplier since the late 90s. All for emissions around then.
                          One thing with the N54, it's fucking hopeless at meeting DME targets under load for temperature even if custom mapped with my own duty cycle parameters.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by Mr Purple View Post
                            If you can run one temperature gauge, what would it be - oil or water?

                            I've been pondering this one this morning. BMW has oil temp and it takes a good 10-15 minutes to get to temp, Mini has oil and water, AW11 water only.

                            Given my main purpose of looking at the temperature gauge is to see when it's ok to flog it, surely oil would be the more accurate measure for that? The secondary purpose though is 'stop, something's broken' and I'd imagine water temp would be the first warning of that.

                            I'm suspicious it probably doesn't make any difference. Just wondering why the manufacturers sometimes use one over the other.
                            Water temp and oil pressure. Once the oil pressure at idle has come down, you're good to give it a hiding - it's pretty much the same tell tale. Having said that, I really need to get around to sorting the sender for my oil temp.

                            Of course, if it's air cooled, water temp isn't much use
                            "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

                            Comment


                              Would be nice if someone made a "heat pipe" to transfer waste heat from the car radiator to the oil cooler or something. Similar to the transmission fluid running through the radiator perhaps.

                              Comment


                                ^ Subaru have done that on every vehicle since the EJ motor. Lots of manufacturers have a heat exchanger between water and oil systems.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X