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Keep turbos or go cam?

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    #16
    Blower is your best option

    If you keep it turbo - go single and the least ricey vented bonnet you can find. I understand the heat pain.

    If you go to n/a you'll cry everytime you give it a stab. I went from a turbo to n/a 427ci with ITB's (and made the same power) and still cried

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      #17
      Originally posted by Dogsballs View Post
      Ceramic coat does Jack shit.
      Yeah, this. All those coatings & wraps, SFA. If the heat is causing problems then more bigger solutions are needed than that.
      I stick by my earlier comments about a cam feeling slow if you’re used to turbo torque. If you don’t care; then that’s fine.
      Given how many reliable blower options are available, Shirley it must be possible to do a turbo option with reliability?
      Soft roaders represent an excellent compromise between the needs of the hardcore 4x4 user and the convenience of a city hatchback. Its clear to see why they have become so popular in todays society.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Jack Nicholson View Post
        This'd be like dumping a dirty bitch that deepthroats, does ass-to-mouth & sits on your face for fun, for a frump that will only do missionary with the lights off & might suck your dick on your birthday, but only for a minute...
        This guy. He is disturbingly accurate...
        The older i get, the better i was...

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          #19
          I think you should drive a cammed LS so you can see how lame it is compared to boost.

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            #20
            As above, you need boost to get torque. And torque makes for smiles. HP wins races, but torque wins for everything else, and this ain't a race car I understand.

            Other than low mount turbos down near the gearbox, pretty damn hard to keep heat out of the engine bay. Wraps and beanies work, but are hell on the turbo/pipes. Ceramic coating looks nice...and that's about it. Airgap heat shields work also - there's a reason OEM use them!

            Well, there is a cheap and easy option that's not been mentioned yet. 2 bottles of nawse, overnight from Japan....no heat issues there (discounting any bottle blankets you may run that is!).

            Otherwise you need to blower it up. It'll sound better, go well and not get too hot. Winning, if you care to pay up.

            Oh, and since it's not my money - fit a cam no matter what you decide.

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              #21
              I have nothing sensible to add here, but what kind of power level are you at?
              Originally posted by myshortyboomba
              I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

              you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

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                #22
                cams and 100 (or 200) shot of nos that won't blow the welds on the intake?

                Don't worry about it for day to day driving and fill up the bottle when you want to giggle

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                  #23
                  Agree with car feeling slow even with a big cam they make can make good numbers but it won't compare. Also agree with the heat management being a constant struggle. There is a lot of exhaust pipe running around a turbo cars engine bay and that can be difficult to manage.

                  Considered selling the car? Imo that's the best way to go. You want to buy a block or whatever extra cash will help. All this cams and blowers or nitrous costs money. The turbo kit sale will make some. Not enough for it to be worth the effort imo.

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                    #24
                    sorry I re-read your question.

                    Turbo without question. Been in heaps of cammed 6L's and they all seem comparability slow compared to boosted ones.

                    To get even remotely near turbo power figures(350rwkw) they drive/idle like pigs and are just obnoxious at the lights.

                    A mild cam ~300ish rwkw much nicer and daily driveable, but still wouldn't come close to a PD Blown or turbo rig.

                    Re-jig what you have!
                    Last edited by brasher; 22-07-21, 09:58 AM.

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                      #25
                      yeah nobody in Oz does the proper ceramic coatings the ones here are more cosmetic than anything
                      E30 325is M20 3.1L

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                        #26
                        Lol how is this a thread you flower
                        Jason Broadhurst

                        Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

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                          #27
                          One other thought, if the turbo setup is engineered/mod plated etc. And you're sick of it, then sell the car as is and get another one. The paperwork for the mods is probably worth more than a kit in pieces.
                          Originally posted by myshortyboomba
                          I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

                          you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            This popped up on fb today, thanks fb bots

                            https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-car...PLc_dCoI2GdvYY

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Captiva Fan View Post
                              Unless the turbo install is truly shit, I imagine just fitting the classic old cam+zorst will give Much Disappointment compared to the turbo torque.
                              nah, no s/c, I'd prefer to go big single turbo first as per lysdexia. Have looked into and discussed briefly with Al previously.

                              thanks for input dogsballs. Rich, as mentioned by dogsballs, two turbos spinning away, even at the bottom of the bay, with all the airflow obstructions generates a fuck ton of heat. Re. heat protection, slides, Shane etc, I've looked into it but get mixed feedback, as other dudes here mention.

                              Greg, vet or anyone else, if you have experience with good heat shielding, wraps etc, I'm all ears.

                              Roy, the issue is heat not the block. It's only shit one stock block so far and not due to the tune or turbocharging. For a bunky backyard kit it does alright.
                              Jack, hat tipped.

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by vlsv88 View Post
                                Blower is your best option

                                If you keep it turbo - go single and the least ricey vented bonnet you can find. I understand the heat pain.

                                If you go to n/a you'll cry everytime you give it a stab...
                                The heat death is real. Captiva, as per previous, that's what I'm trying to suss out.

                                Safety, I've been in a few. No turbo surge but noise and fun in isolation. 200mph, hah, as it's my money, it's pretty much the issue really. That heat has cooked a few things and left me waiting for the starter to come back to life more than a few times.
                                Fraud- around 350rwkw, low boost and is pretty perfect for the street. Staples, you're right re the heat but I'd like to keep the car.

                                Brasher, it's where I'm leaning at the moment and lol, thanks for the input Broadhurst.

                                Have messaged Al. Thanks for the input fellas, keen to hear or see cooling solutions other blokes have managed.

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