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Paintless dent removal...diy?

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    Paintless dent removal...diy?

    Obviously ebay has these magic kits that allow you to pull dents yourself... What's the success rate like? I've got a few on the mini (maybe 5 in total?) I'd want to mostly pull out, if there was a small ripple left afterwards I wouldn't care, just want to mostly pull it out...

    What I do realise is that the metal on the line these dents are on is pretty darn solid, I assume that's probably the biggest issue with diy... Or what would someone charge to solve it?

    Click image for larger version

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    Originally posted by piss98
    fuck I'd be happy to suck Bill Gates off

    #2
    If you don't know what you're doing you'll end up making them look worse.

    Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk

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      #3
      It's not hard. It does take at least a week of 8 hour days to figure out what you're doing, and three or four weeks to get good enough to start making significant money at it.

      I did it for three years before I ruined my shoulder in an unrelated accident, now I can push one dent in a day but if I do more than that I regret it almost immediately.

      Best way to visualize what you have to do is think of it this way:

      You can not remove the dent. You can only hide the dent. The metal doesn't "compress" persay, but you push little peaks and valleys into it, so that the stretched out metal that forms the dent gets crinkled up like tin foil, but the difference between a peak and a valley is less than the thickness of the clearcoat. Then you can cut and buff lightly and the dent "magically" goes away-you get the glossy shine again. If you are highly skilled, you can match the texture and depth of the natural orange peel of most paint and you don't even need to cut and buff the clear. You can use a "fogged" spot done with 800grit paper and buff around it and now the last remnant of a deep pockmark dent that you can't get out just looks like an unpolished spot of paint.

      The tools are used as pinpoint push bars, you're not trying to "iron out" the dent, you have to push in the perfect spot to unfold the dent. Get a glossy white plastic board, and use some pinstriping tape to put some evenly spaced, straight lines on it. You can use this to project a reflected image of straight lines, and it will help you keep your body lines straight and curves even.

      The handiest tool I use is a blade-type tool, take a piece of 8mm or 10mm steel rod, put a 30* or 40* bend in it, and grind it into taper to a flat blade about 1mm thick, with the blade parallel to the length of the rod. Weld a T-handle on it made out of some 25mm tube, and dip the handle in plasti-dip or similar and you've got basically what I use. I round out the end into a 40mm radius or so , so that I have a contact area that's 1mm wide and mostly just tangent to the curve ground into the end.

      Using this tool, you can slide it up and down along the inside of the panel, and watch the outside for how the metal is distorted by looking at how the reflection in the panel is distorted. The pressure you apply should be enough to flex the panel without denting/peaking it, but starting out it's *very* hard to see and if you stop doing it regularly, it also gets hard to see. You gotta practice a LOT before you finally pick up the tool tip through the panel.

      Once you can see the tool tip and track its movements, you can start pushing. As you push the panel, you'll see the reflection "suck up" into a dot, and if you push too hard you'll have an inside out dent. Get a piece of 12mm nylon or UHMW round rod, and belt-sand it into a conical point, like sharpening a pencil, but leave about a 1mm to 1.5mm flat on the end. This is the tool used with a very light (aluminum light!) body hammer to push these peaks back down.

      Alternate between the blade tool pushing up and the plastic pencil pushing back down, and you can repair/hide any dent, any size, as long as you have access from both sides.

      If you don't, that's when you get into glue-pulling. Literally just wal-mart hot melt glue and plastic pull studs, and it works just like using a weld-on stud. I use an aluminum slide hammer for that too, much much less risk of ripping the paint off a panel. (Yes, you WILL rip off the paint if the adhesion isn't perfect!)

      Unfortunately for you, the dent in your photo is in a bad spot. There is normally a boxed section at the top of the door, so you may not have the access you need to get in behind it, and even if you do have access, you'll need to use a tiny tool to get there so you have limited push power to get it lifted out. It can definitely be pushed out but it's a tough one. As slick as your paint is though it'll be easy to buff to a matching shine, assuming there is enough clearcoat left to do it!

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        #4
        I can't remember exactly but i think i paid < $200 to have someone remove 4 dents, 1 in each rear door of our cars.

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          #5
          This is what a good paintless dent guy can do.

          Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk

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            #6
            Ha, well that is the shortest conclusion ever... I'll call a local guy and take it to them and see what they say... If it's $800 or something too make them look a lot better than I'll just get them to do it... Thanks Xnke for the insight...I'm not that committed to it, definitely easier to pay someone else!
            Originally posted by piss98
            fuck I'd be happy to suck Bill Gates off

            Comment


              #7
              Find one with a website of fb page that has pics like my mate has. If they don't have any it'll mean they're shit at their job

              Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk

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                #8
                Originally posted by GreatWallGT500 View Post
                Find one with a website of fb page that has pics like my mate has. If they don't have any it'll mean they're shit at their job

                Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk
                Sweet, will do! Thanks!
                Originally posted by piss98
                fuck I'd be happy to suck Bill Gates off

                Comment


                  #9
                  https://www.dentbuster.com.au/

                  Francois is your man. He pulled a dent from the bonnet of my FD which was right on top of one of the supports. Made up a custom tool and all because he didn't want to give up.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks, that's quite helpful!
                    Originally posted by piss98
                    fuck I'd be happy to suck Bill Gates off

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I have a 1300 dollar shitbox purchased pre covid. I used one of the decent ebay dent pullers (with slide hammer, etc) and managed to get a pretty good result. If the car was decent, I'd have asked a pro.

                      I was able to remove some hail dents fairly easily. Front fender had been semi caved in and I was able to restore that, however there's a ridgeline. It passes the 2m test though.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Let me know if you want the paint tidied up or coated afterwards!
                        CAD Automotive Paint Correction, like us on the faceballs. Discounts on all detailing and ceramic coatings for PF members

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Xnke View Post
                          (Yes, you WILL rip off the paint if the adhesion isn't perfect!)
                          Can confirm this happens and is painful to watch. Especially when it's factory matte paint.
                          Kebabhunter

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by FLI355 View Post
                            Let me know if you want the paint tidied up or coated afterwards!
                            I definitely want to do that at some point as it's parked outside full time!
                            Originally posted by piss98
                            fuck I'd be happy to suck Bill Gates off

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by mrkebabs View Post
                              Can confirm this happens and is painful to watch. Especially when it's factory matte paint.
                              Oof. At least the panels are small and probably cheap to repaint...
                              Originally posted by piss98
                              fuck I'd be happy to suck Bill Gates off

                              Comment

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