lol at emre!
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Who has an external fuel pump with surge tank?
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hahahaha i think most other people on here had another use in mind for that pic...Originally posted by EmreNah... Sorry mate... My grandma never had anything like that.
But, since I seem to have upset you, here is something for your future use.
however, it'd distract people from the rust....Originally posted by myshortyboombaI've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.
you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.
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mine is in my engine bay,Originally posted by boothyif so can you post pics so i can see how ppl have set them out in the boot or where ever you put them???
and what type of pump and tank you have...
also do u find it make the car smell like petrol all the time if mounted in boot?
1000ml s.steel canister, with walbro 255 pump inside. braised 1/4 bsp fittings
this means no smell,
but also that it heats up a little bit...
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Guys, if you're going to use a swil pot, please build it right!
The shape is very important to keep the hot and cold fuel separate, and also get all the air bubbles out.
This (crapp) diagram is how they should look.
1 - the low-pressure feed from the fuel tank.
2 - high-pressure pump suction feed to the engine.
3 - Return from the engine fuel rail.
4 - Return to the fuel tank.
Note that the low pressure feed and the fuel rail return are at a tangent to the pot, this is to create swirl. Swirl tends to keep the hot & cold fuel separate and also make all the air go to the middle of the pot. Pipe #4 is right above that so all the air is vented properly.
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setup i had in the starlyon, $600 for pumps and lines and everything, was quite happy. Lots of thread tape and good fittings ensured no leaks. Either that or i was immune to the smell. Gf did smoke in the car and it didnt blow up so that was a good sign.
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This is my intended design, not constructed yet, stupidly overengineered as with everything i do, but hopefully illustrates bill's point further...Originally posted by BillzillaGuys, if you're going to use a swil pot, please build it right!Originally posted by edoYeah, be aloof...the world needs loofs
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belly up, yours doesnt go along with what bill is saying at all (nice CAD though)
if you can't have the main feed coming out the bottom, at least make sure that there are two pipes near the bottom
to (hopefully) sum up what bill is saying:
cold fuel comes into the swirl pot at the bottom and cold fuel gets sucked out of the bottom of the swirl pot and gets sent to the engine.
hot fuel from the return line comes into the swirl pot at the top, and hot fuel exits the swirl pot at the top and goes back into the main tank, where it gets magically cooled down.
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mine was only there to serve one purpose - carby to efi conversion, and factory fuel tank had no baffles whatsoever, therefore, surge tank. any other advantages were strictly coincidental.Originally posted by BillzillaGuys, if you're going to use a swil pot, please build it right!Originally posted by myshortyboombaI've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.
you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.
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Cool fuel helps keep cooler intake temperatures. Having a cold air intake and warmer fuel is contradictory. Ideally you want them both as cool as you can manage, for combustion.Originally posted by tinkerbellcan i ask "how hot is too hot" for fuel?
and what effect too hot fuel has on performacne?
(i have never felt like i have had an issue, even circuit racing, buit would like to know how to tell if it is an issue...)
Fuel can't burn on its own, so asking a question like "does cooler fuel release more energy" is somewhat redundant. The temperature of air-fuel mixture is what matters. Cool air + cool fuel, FTW !
The effects are reduced performance, invitation for detonation, etc.
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